My antipasto spread at home? I wish. This beaut is from the recent Virginia Governor's Cup wine competition (#charcuteriegoals). I hope you are fully stocked with the best bites and beverages — I have already eaten through a container or two of Birdie’s Pimento cheese and a box or three of Girl Scout cookies, and I finished off a four-pack of tall boys from The Veil. But who's counting? (Photo by Eileen Mellon)
Editor's note: To be honest, it feels very strange writing Food News while sitting at home, uncertain about what the future holds amid the coronavirus pandemic, especially for our beloved Richmond dining industry. A huge pillar of our community is facing a crisis and has been decimated in a matter of days. The places and businesses we turn to that uplift us, via standing orders or weekly lunch rituals, where a quick step into the establishment instills comfort like slipping on a favorite T-shirt, are lifeless. Many of the people who make those experiences so bright are jobless, unsure if or when their restaurants, bakeries or coffee shops will reopen. While I speak of the hospitality industry, I know these feelings are universal. Everything is uncertain, for everyone.
I picked up food from Alewife earlier this week, two pieces of plump fried chicken, collards and a piece of pound cake (pro tip: order the pound cake), with a message on top of the box in black marker that read, “Thank you, we appreciate the support” signed with a heart. I called ahead, waiting outside the door when I arrived until greeted. They were operating with a skeleton crew of three, two in the kitchen and one answering phones, chairs stacked high around the eerily empty dining room, a chalk board still marked with specials. The experience felt foreign, and I felt foreign standing there, my feet glued to the floor waiting until my food was ready so I could take it home. But when I heard, "Thanks for coming out," and I tasted that first bite of cake, it brought me joy that I most desperately needed.
While we understand the importance of providing updates and assistance to navigate all the changes taking place, stay tuned for additional content that is a little lighter and meant to bring some cheer. Please stay safe and responsible. Support local businesses if you can. Keep your head up and set aside time for something that makes you happy each day.
—Until next week, EM
Adaptive Dining
In the span of days, countless area restaurants have laid off workers, shut their doors or switched to strictly takeout operations in the face of the coronavirus pandemic. I spoke with a handful of local restaurateurs at spots from Restaurant Adarra to Brenner Pass about how they are navigating the changes. We also have tips on how to support the dining community and the lowdown on takeout and to-go options for food, beer and wine. (Richmond magazine)
A Helping Hand
The Holli Fund debuted its website last week, ideal timing because the nonprofit's mission is more critical than ever. Named for late food writer and local dining industry champion Hollister Lindley, the organization offers grants to food service workers facing economic crisis. The first grants were disbursed just yesterday, and according to co-founder Robey Martin, the Holli Fund has already paid an industry worker's rent — definitely a feel-good moment in tough times. (Richmond magazine)
Happy Hour From Home
Friday is coming up, and instead of the typical agenda of imbibing at our favorite watering holes, this week we’ll have to sip a bit differently. On Friday, March 20, a virtual happy hour event is offering the opportunity for people to rock their sweatpants, pour their beverage of choice and donate to workers in the local food service industry. The Toast — Then Text event, with proceeds going to the Holli Fund, kicks off at noon. (Richmond magazine)
Time to Tempeh
A fine-dining chef hung up his apron after 15 years and turned to a life of fermentation last year, launching Chaotic Good Tempeh. Founder Keith Gurgick, a runner-up in last year's Help to the Shelf competition with this idea, puts a flavorful spin on the fermented bean cakes, offering varieties including “carnitas” and "pastrami." These gut-healthy plant-based products can be found at area markers and grocers. (Richmond magazine)
Join the Cruciferous Club
If you’re looking for the lowdown on a wallet-friendly and versatile veggie to work into your cooking repertoire, writer Stephanie Ganz shares the deets on cabbage, from buying tips to a recipe from Rare Olde Times for the Irish staple colcannon — Guinness not included. (Richmond magazine)
RVADine Adieus
On March 18, the downtown institution known for its breakfast and lunch menus packed with items from local purveyors served its last order of Disco Eggs. After nearly a decade in business, Citizen has closed its doors at 1203 E. Main St., citing a business deal turned south in the face of the current market slowdown. Owner Greg Johnson had been heading up the kitchen at nearby minigolf course-meets-restaurant Hotel Greene part time. Hotel Greene owner Jim Gottier, along with partner Andrea Ball, announced earlier this week that their other venture, Greenleaf’s Pool Room, a modern pool hall that opened in 2014, would be closing indefinitely.
All in This Together
There has been an outpouring of resources and crowdfunding efforts set up to offer assistance to those in the dining industry affected by the coronavirus pandemic. Many hospitality groups and individual restaurants have set up GoFundMe pages to help employees while their businesses are closed or operating on a strictly takeout basis. This is a growing list.
- Richmond Restaurant Workers Support Fund
- EAT Associate Relief Fund
- RRG Employee Relief Fund.
- Giavos Family Restaurants Employee Relief Fund.
- RVA Hospitality Employee Relief Fund
- Goatocado Workers Fund
- Can Can Brasserie Waitstaff
- New York Deli Employee Relief Fund
- Financial resources: Are you an industry worker or have a friend in the biz? Kevin Clay, founder of Big Spoon Co., has a platform of helpful info ranging from current city regulations to charity foundations.
Meals in Motion
Two area food trucks have rolled out a meal ordering and pickup program to bring Wisconsin-style custard along with salads, sandwiches and biscuits to you and your ‘hood. Jiji’s Frozen Custard and Salt & Forge are using an online ordering system that allows customers to choose their meal, schedule a pickup time and get it delivered to a drop-off point in the neighborhood, in addition to walk-up options. To schedule a visit to your neck of the woods, contact Salt & Forge at 804-539-3464 or Jiji at 804-404-2773. (News release)
ICYMI
Yo, RVA! The Rocky-inspired sandwich pop-up The Paulie from restaurateur Jason Alley is bringing all the cold cuts and Cheese Whiz this Saturday, March 21, from noon to sellout at Bingo Beer Co. Stay tuned to Instagram for preordering info.
Hand sanitizer may be one of the hottest items right now (although nothing will beat TP), but Reservoir Distillery is generously sharing some of its supply. Community members in need can visit the Scott’s Addition distillery. Rules: BYO bottle (10-ounce limit) and stand at least 8 feet apart.
In Other Food News ...
- We all could use some streaming suggestions, and in early April, Netflix will premiere "Cooking With Cannabis," in which chefs whip up a three-course cannabis-infused meal. Remember the artist Kelis and her hit song "Milkshake"? Turns out the singer doubles as a chef and will be a co-host of the forthcoming series. (Food & Wine)
- Chef and humanitarian José Andrés is instilling hope once again. After closing six of his restaurants, he has reopened them as “community kitchens” through World Central Kitchen, the disaster relief organization he founded in 2010 following the devastating earthquakes in Haiti. People in need of meals or those who want to donate can visit the restaurants from noon to 5 p.m. daily. (Washingtonian)
