The forthcoming restaurant at Hardywood West Creek is expected to open in early 2020. (Photo by Eileen Mellon)
Hardywood Park Craft Brewery founders and childhood friends Eric McKay and Patrick Murtaugh have a few things in common with Joe Sparatta, chef and co-owner of Heritage and Southbound.
The trio are all Southern transplants, originally hailing from New York and New Jersey, and made a start on their Richmond ventures in 2011— McKay and Murtaugh opened the original Hardywood location on Ownby Lane, while Sparatta, along with wife Emilia, purchased the former Six Burner Restaurant space that year and debuted Heritage in the fall of 2012.
Each of the men felt that a focus on seasonality and working closely with local farmers were important priorities, and that offering a high-quality product, whether it be food or craft beer, was at the forefront of their missions.
And both businesses grew and expanded. In 2014 Sparatta opened Southbound with fellow chef Lee Gregory in the Stony Point Shopping Center, and McKay and Murtaugh opened a Hardywood tasting room in Charlottesville prior to the early 2018 debut of their spacious and scenic West Creek outpost, which would assist with increased distribution and double as an event venue.
Almost eight years later, all three names are synonymous with success in the Richmond dining and beverage community, recognized locally and beyond, and all three men have families of their own. They saw Richmond’s beer and culinary landscapes flourish from young, naive and hopeful to established, focused and innovative.
There have been numerous accolades along the way, including Heritage being named one of the 100 Best Restaurants in the South by Southern Living, Bon Appetit recognizing Southbound as one of America’s Best New Restaurants and Hardywood receiving a rare 100 rating by BeerAdvocate magazine for its Gingerbread Stout.
Now, the trio are ready for their next project: a restaurant inside Hardywood West Creek’s 60,000-square-foot brewery in Goochland, with cuisine spearheaded by Sparatta and a yet-to-be-determined culinary team, set to open by 2020.
“The concept of having a restaurant was never new, but we never felt comfortable starting it on our own,” explains Murtaugh on the timing of the deal.
From left, Eric McKay and Patrick Murtaugh of Hardywood (Photo by Kyle LaFerriere)
McKay and Murtaugh knew their limitations and the wisdom of staying in their sudsy lane, but they also understood that the space at Hardywood West Creek was distinct, nestled off the beaten path in Goochland with expansive views of Tuckahoe Creek. It could prove to be a destination, not just a pit-stop.
“I grew up in [New York] City, and I loved it, but being able to get out of the city was such a treat, and [West Creek] reminds me of that, the ability to live in the city, drive 20 minutes and feel like you’re in the middle of the country and nature — it’s a nice escape,” says Murtaugh.
The Hardywood founders saw the addition of a restaurant as a chance to elevate a trip to Hardywood and curate the ultimate brewery experience: a combination of purposeful brews, chef-driven food and an escape from the bustle of downtown.
But the entrepreneurs needed to identify the right captain to steer the culinary ship, someone experienced and aligned with their vision — enter Sparatta.
“Joe is someone I’ve respected as a chef, and I’ve always had a wonderful experience at his restaurants,” says McKay, who first began working with Sparatta during the recurring For Every Saison Beer Dinners held at Maymont with cuisine from local chefs and beer from Hardywood. "This is a dream come true."
Murtaugh echoes the thought: “We knew if we were to [open a restaurant], it would be best to partner with a great chef,” he says. “The idea of working with Joe came around, and it all made sense.”
Sparatta was on board.
“I’m ready for a new challenge,” says Sparatta confidently. “I’m excited to add to the guest experience for people that are going to West Creek.”
The restaurant will be located inside the existing facility, with the majority of the cooking and prep work executed in a basement kitchen. The plan is for the restaurant to operate in unison with the brewery and maintain the same hours.
Sparatta says that the food will be elevated fast-casual, but his process for developing the menu remains in sync with that of his other dining establishments: Focus on local ingredients and partner with local farms. The biggest difference is designing food that pairs well with beer specifically. Although Sparatta celebrated one year of sobriety in November, he says the restaurant's location inside a brewery is a minor detail.
“I'm very comfortable with it and honestly, it's kind of empowering to realize where I am at this stage in my life and with my alcoholism,” says Sparatta, who last summer started the Richmond chapter of Ben’s Friends, an industry support group for those struggling with addiction, with fellow restaurateur Jason Alley. “It's empowering at this point because I know I can do it. ... I’m definitely looking forward to providing delicious food in there and family-friendly options.”
With the opening of the restaurant Hardywood plans to expand its nonalcoholic drink offerings. A house lemonade is currently offered on tap, and a grapefruit soda and other options are in the works. The brewery also plans to release its first ciders later this summer and eventually unveil an outdoor amphitheater.
Diners who frequent Heritage and are accustomed to Sparatta’s dedicated presence in the kitchen and dining room needn’t worry; he plans to remain integral parts of both. With a title of concept chef at West Creek, he says the goal is to find an individual to help run the kitchen there, and he is excited for the future.
“Eric and Patrick have shown they can be consistent on a high level after all these years of operating and I'm ready for a new challenge. This is a great group of people and organization to be a part of and move forward with.”
Stay tuned for updates regarding the new restaurant's menu, culinary team and opening date.
