The following is an extended version of the article that appears in our November 2021 issue.
Laura Lee's Nocino Nuts and Berries cocktail (Photo courtesy Laura Lee's)
In anticipation of potentially putting an uncomfortable amount of food in one’s body this holiday season, we’ve rounded up some belly-settling, liver-stimulating, miracle-syrup sippers to help ignite your life force after meals: digestifs! Pouring a neat dram of a favorite amaro is always an option, of course, and a great one, but why do amari aid in digestion? The liquors are concocted with big, punchy herbal or vegetal ingredients that stimulate specific processes.
The myrrh in Fernet has both antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties; the gentian in Campari boosts bile production in the liver, helping the body detox; the cinnamon-mint punch in Chartreuse relaxes the gut and prevents bloating. (And each of those contains other supportive botanicals, too.) But if you want to take it a step further than just a simple pour, bar pros around the city craft some gorgeous after-dinner cocktails.
Midnight City
Shannon Hood, Brenner Pass
At Brenner Pass, bar manager Shannon Hood’s riff on a Black Manhattan is an absolute gem. The Barolo Chinato used in her Midnight City is gentian-forward, made with PX sherry from 1992. Hood describes the drink, which has almost a maple syrup viscosity, as a “rich, dessert-y, fall-spiced stomach settler.”
2 dashes Regan’s Orange Bitters
1/4 ounce PX Sherry
3/4 ounce Amaro Averna
3/4 ounce Barolo Chinato
1 1/4 ounces Basil Hayden’s Dark Rye
Orange twist
Add all ingredients into a mixing glass (a pint glass or shaker tin will work at home) in the listed order — this way, if you make a mistake, you don’t waste too much. Fill your mixing glass all the way up with ice, pack it full! Stir for about 20 seconds. Strain into a chilled martini glass or coupe. Garnish with a twist of orange. Lightly squeeze the twist over the glass to release the oils and aromas and gently rub the outer side of the twist around the rim of your glass.
Nightdaddy
Lauren Spain, Tazza Kitchen Short Pump
Over at Tazza Kitchen Short Pump, Beverage Director Lauren Spain presents a brilliant replacement for the after-dinner coffee on the menu: the Nightdaddy. Cold-brew moonshine, walnut bitters and chile-infused Cocchi Rosa make the gut magic happen (along with the amorous magic of bourbon).
1 ounce Belle Isle Cold Brew Moonshine
1 ounce Evan Williams Bourbon
1/4 ounce chile Cocchi Rosa
1/4 ounce Luxardo Maraschino
1/2 ounce simple syrup
1 dash black walnut bitters
Mix all ingredients together and stir with ice, then strain into glass.
Nocino Nuts and Berries
Ben Nelson, Laura Lee’s
Another walnut-infused beauty is the Nocino Nuts and Berries at Laura Lee’s. Developed by restaurant manager Ben Nelson, it replaces the Frangelico traditionally found in the classic Nuts and Berries with Nocino from Don Ciccio & Figli, a family-run operation out of the D.C. area that specializes in Italian-style liqueurs, amari and digestifs. Nelson says, “It’s a spiced liqueur made from green walnuts and has a delicious warming quality.”
1 ounce Nocino
1 ounce your choice berry liqueur (I recommend Massenez Creme de Mure, or even try making your own!)
2 ounces cream or your choice or alternative milk
Add all ingredients, stir with ice, strain over 1-inch cubes in a rocks glass. Garnish with shaved cinnamon or nutmeg.
