The following is an extended version of the piece that appears in our June 2024 issue.
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Photo courtesy Amy’s Garden
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Photo courtesy Oro
Market Haul
Must-cop finds at the farmers market
Hand-crafted fresh pasta can be yours weekly at the St. Stephen’s and Birdhouse farmers markets. Oro’s creations, such as sweet corn ravioli, capture the essence of the season in flawless pasta pillows.
OK, it’s not fresh produce, but hear me out: There are few things better on a hot summer day at RVA’s Big Market than a fluffy mound of syrupy shave ice.
Cantaloupe From Old Tavern Farm
Starting in early July, the farm stand at Old Tavern boasts a bumper crop of sun-ripened sweet cantaloupe destined for a summertime dish of prosciutto e melone.
Blackberries From Agriberry Farm
These berry barons have been in the biz for nearly 20 years. Stock up on a flat of their massive, honey-sweet blackberries at area markets, including the Lakeside and West End farmers markets.
Heirloom Tomatoes From Amy’s Garden
In a part of the world known for great tomatoes, Amy Hicks’ (found at Birdhouse Farmers Market) are noteworthy thanks to varietal selection, reduced watering (which enhances flavors) and all-organic nutrients.
Pop Pale Ale from Ardent Craft Ales (Photo courtesy Ardent Craft Ales)
Thirst Quenchers
To find outdoor drinking where all the work is done for you, Alewife Bar Manager Sophia Kim makes a beeline for Sincero’s patio, where the hibiscus spritz is cool and refreshing, and Emerald Lounge, where, she says, “They have a really great happy hour that includes $6 daiquiris. They rotate the rums, so it’s fun to see what kind they’re shaking up.”
For Second Bottle Wine and Snack Shop owner Erin Keene, “A true patio pounder is high in acid and low in ABV. Once I start quenching my thirst with alcohol, things can get dangerous.” To stay in the safely hydrated zone, Keene recommends Ameztoi Rubentis rosé, a slightly sparkling, zippy txakoli that’s more subtle in terms of booze. If you’re in the mood for a spritz, she suggests Mattei Cap Corse Blanc with a splash of sparkling water and a lemon peel.
At Penny’s Wine Shop, co-owner Kristen Gardner Beal says she’s absolutely loving The Marigny, It’ll Do Pinot Noir by Andrew Reginald Young. “This chillable red is super fun, with notes of cherry and ripe raspberry; a beautiful combination of 80% pinot noir and 20% syrah.”
During the dog days of summer, the fellows at The Cask Cafe & Market reach for pilsners and pale ales. Co-owner David Garrett favors Jever, a malty pilsner from a 170-year-old German brewery. Meanwhile, co-owner and beer historian James Talley reaches for Ardent Craft Ales’ juicy, fruity Pop Pale Ale and the floral and refreshing Chesapeake Pale Ale from Alewerks Brewing Co.
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A BLT from Garnett's (Photo courtesy Garnett’s)
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The tomato pie from Neighbor (Photo by Eileen Mellon)
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A smashburger and fries from Cobra Burger (Photo by Justin Chesney)
Salute the Season
Bites that pair perfectly with sunshine
- BLT from Garnett’s (classic) or Soul N’ Vinegar (pimento cheese, baby)
- Tomato pie from Neighbor (winner of Duke’s Golden Tomato Award 2023)
- Vanilla-chocolate swirl with sprinkles (or jimmies) from Jimer’s Frozen Custard
- Dinner with a view at Libby Hill Overlook (snag 8 1/2 or Cobra Burger for a sunset supper)
- Goochland Drive-in Theater (pack up a cooler with lobster roll kits from Acacia Midtown)
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Oysters and accoutrements from The Tides Inn (Photo by Kate Thompson)
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Salt & Meadow at The Tides Inn (Photo by Kate Thompson)
On the Road
Virginia pit stops to satiate the hungry traveler
Northern Neck
Just over an hour from Richmond in the Northern Neck — a peninsula flanked by the Rappahannock and Potomac rivers — people pronounce “river” as “rivah,” and visitors spend as much of their time alongside the area’s picturesque banks as possible. See for yourself how easily an hour turns into an entire afternoon dockside at Merroir, a tasting room for Rappahannock Oyster Co. bivalves in Topping.
The Tides Inn, a resort in Irvington overlooking the Chesapeake Bay, offers Salt & Meadow, a new dining concept that showcases local, seasonal seafood and produce. Just a stone’s throw away is Adrift, a mom-and-pop fine-dining spot serving hits including Steamboat Wharf baked oysters and togarashi-blackened tuna. Next door, check out Moor, Adrift’s provisions shop stocked with wine, beer and plenty of goodies to take back to your home away from home.
Staunton
A history-steeped town full of art and artists, Staunton is the ideal destination for a short weekend getaway. If you’ve been visiting Staunton for years to snag a seat at James Beard Award-nominated Ian Boden’s The Shack, there’s a new reason to head west. Boden recently opened Maude & the Bear, an inn and restaurant offering four- and seven-course tasting menus and a chef’s tasting table, plus — a bonus for overnight guests — a multicourse breakfast. Meanwhile, The Shack is the destination for wood-fired pizzas, pasta and a damn fine burger.
On Saturday mornings, swing by downtown Staunton’s charming farmers market, where you’ll find cheeses from Ballerino Creamery, sourdough bread from Wild Yeast Bake Shoppe and Ukranian pastries by Nadiia. You might be surprised to learn that there’s exceptional El Salvadoran food in Staunton, but don’t be: Gloria’s Pupuseria has been serving perfect pupusas and soul-settling guisadas since 2013. And then there’s Wright’s Dairy-Rite — a Staunton legend known for milkshakes, malts and the world’s best onion rings since 1952.
Eden Center
Lovers of Vietnamese and other Southeast Asian foods should set aside at least one day this summer for a trip to Fall Church’s Eden Center, a Vietnamese shopping complex boasting about 120 businesses, from restaurants to bakeries and grocery stores — the largest complex of its kind on the East Coast. Plan to start with a Vietnamese rice crepe, banh xeo, or a steaming bowl of pho from Huong Viet — they’re massive and can easily be shared with a friend. But save room for the crispy fried tofu at Thanh Son Tofu. They make plain and seasoned tofu fresh daily, and it’s worth shuffling through the cafeteria-style line to score some.
Leave time for a stop at Banh Cuon Saigon for a plate of their signature Vietnamese rice rolls. Before you hit the road, load up on all the Asian ingredients you could ever dream of at Good Fortune Supermarket, a sprawling grocery store that you could easily get lost in. Bring a cooler for the car ride home; you’ll be glad you did.
Warm Springs
One of the bonuses of traveling to Warm Springs is the drive (try skipping I-64 and take the back roads). Offering picturesque vistas of Virginia’s mountains, the three-hour journey will lead you to the quaint town cradled in Bath County. All summer long, Richmond chefs will head west to Warm Springs for FoodLore Provisions, a Friday pop-up dinner series held on Oakley Farm from 4 to 8 p.m.
Cooking from an Airstream trailer parked on the farm, chefs including Kyle Morse of sausage purveyor The Mayor, Kathryn Schmitz of VegTable, Ned and Andrea Curry of Ryba’s Pierogis, Carlos Ordaz-Nunez of TBT El Gallo, Hans Doxzen of Quarter Horse, Henry Fletcher of 1115 Mobile Kitchen, and Laine Myers of Oro are all part of the lineup. Each week, they’ll introduce a regionally influenced a la carte menu, and diners are encouraged to bring blankets or chairs and stay a while for the al fresco affair.
Also calling Oakley Farm home is Troddenvale Cider. If you’ve heard of natural wines, enter natural ciders. Relying on native yeasts and Virginia apples, owners and spouses Will and Cornelia Hodges are producing some of the most compelling small-batch ciders in the state. P.S.: Schedule a pre-dinner soak at nearby Warm Springs Pools.
