Photo by Jay Paul
Editor's note: The following is an extended version of the interview published in our December issue.
Fashion savvy — he’s been reading GQ since he was 7 years old — and a sucker for bourbon, specifically E.H. Taylor neat, Richmond native Chauncey Jenkins, 29, has a seasoned soul that only life experience can yield. When he’s not steering the ship at Lemaire — the fine dining restaurant inside the swanky, almost 125-year-old Jefferson Hotel — Jenkins is building beats, writing raps, or grabbing an Italian sub from Piccola’s, his standing order at the spot he’s frequented since childhood.
Richmond magazine: When did you first get into hospitality?
Chauncey Jenkins: My dad was a chef, so I’ve been in a kitchen since I was 4 years old. My dad tried to tell me not to get into hospitality at all because of the long nights and everything involved, but I wanted to own a small boutique hotel.
RM: How long have you been at Lemaire?
Jenkins: I’ve been at Lemaire for almost five years and at the hotel for a little over seven. I was actually working in the rooms division side, but I really missed the pace of dinner service and being in the restaurant because you have to be quick. It’s one of those [places where you must be] able to crucially think on your feet and kind of craft an experience for folks.
RM: How did you become general manager at Lemaire?
Jenkins: I was at TJ’s as assistant manager ... and then an assistant manager opening came up at Lemaire. I was extremely nervous about it. I talked to my manager at TJ’s, and he said, “You have to make the decision that’s best for you and one that’s going to challenge your growth.” I’m very big on doing things in an honorable way. I took his advice as giving me a well wish and made the move. A few years later, the GM position opened up, and Lemaire approached me.
RM: Where did you attend college?
Jenkins: I went to Cornell Hotel School, which is now the Cornell College of Business.
RM: What was the experience of attending an out-of-state Ivy League school like for you?
Jenkins: It was a culture shock for me. I’m from the city and went to public high school, and a lot of my interactions were with folks from the neighborhood. People would ask, “Where are you going for spring break?” and I’m like, “I’m going home or staying at campus.” I didn’t have bread for [expensive trips]. I’m a descendant of very modest means.
RM: It was a completely different world.
Jenkins: Yeah, absolutely. I dealt with heavy depression. Even if you have a good grip on yourself, it was like, I don’t know how to change this, I’m not good enough, how do I do better. I didn’t deal with that as well as I could have, and struggled. It was rough for me. Junior year was absolutely insane. I couldn’t even tell you what that immediate trigger was. It felt like everything was wrong and hard for me for some reason, and I couldn’t get it together. When I was super depressed, I wasn’t leaving my room. I was in my room for like a week and stepped out every once in a while, to get food in the middle of the night and hoard it.
RM: How did you overcome and get through that?
Jenkins: I just keep fighting. I don’t know if I immediately came out of it, it wasn’t a “Man, I’m great now.” A lot of it followed me after college. Writing music is very helpful to me, and performing, and that kind of keeps a balance in my life, and I don’t have to be so serious all the time, and that’s a huge thing.
RM: Were you a social person throughout college?
Jenkins: I wasn’t trying to be. I’m an introverted person. I feel like you expend a lot of energy when you interact with a lot of people, and you need to recharge and focus. I wasn’t a party person, but I threw parties. I’ve always been kind of making sure other people had a good time. My good time came from me seeing other people have that, and hospitality is the same way for me.
RM: You said music really helped. Who are your musical influences?
Jenkins: Growing up, I could only listen to gospel music because my parents were huge in the church. I would move around and see what I could listen to that had parental advisory labels on it. A ton of gospel influence and funk, from Parliament Funkadelic to Fred Hammond, old James Brown, Earth Wind & Fire. Mystikal was my first rap album.
RM: What’s a typical day off for you?
Jenkins: I eat and drink a lot. I spend time writing, I walk with headphones usually, or used to. Now I try to be more present to what’s going on, just looking at leaves and reminding myself life is beautiful and what we decide to make it. Life is much more than these everyday things. ... We can think of the times our lives are difficult, but imagine the life of a tree. Will it make it through the hurricane or tornado?
RM: Favorite Richmond spots to eat?
Jenkins: Saison is my spot, especially after getting off work. Little Nickel is super dope, I think they’re doing fun food and cocktails, and Rappahannock. If I’m going to brunch, I’m going to Heritage, and the Big Hot Mess is what I’m eating. I spend a lot of time eating at Saison, though; the pastrami ribs, they are crazy, OMG. I love to eat at Brenner Pass, and Sidewalk Cafe is a classic.
RM: Favorite space where you’ve performed in the city?
Jenkins: The Byrd Theatre for the “Hamilton” premiere for WCVE. We packed out the Byrd and did spoken word. I don’t get to do that as often as I like.
