Johan and Jody Pozen enjoy a meal at Sen Organic with their daughter, Wren. (Photo by Jay Paul)
As you cruise past the marquee of the Byrd Theatre, a quick glance to the right will land on Sen Organic Small Plate, a calming oasis just off a busy stretch of Cary Street. Windows are open on pleasant days in this cozy triangular expanse, where minimalist décor marries light-colored woods, celadon walls and Zen elements — perfect for this tea garden and tapas bar offering Vietnamese dishes such as pho and banh mi.
Servers glide through the space with dishes often served swiftly, though specialty drinks may take longer. Inspired by the delicate nature of the lotus flower — translated in Vietnamese as “Sen,” the restaurant’s namesake — organic ingredients are the focus. A chicken tartlet with spinach and cream sauce, Saigon-style chicken wings fried crispy with a glaze, and bright summer rolls with a thick peanut sauce are all excellent starters.
Lemongrass salmon lacks the fragrance of the herb and is overdone, its brown rice and medley of organic vegetables also failing to elevate the dish to the level of the starters. But the Sen Skewer of grass-fed rib-eye is easy to enjoy, a version of meaty shish kabobs or yakitori, served with thin ribbons of zucchini and yellow squash “noodles.” For further exploration, the expanded weekend dinner menu offers unusual ingredients and items such as The Bridging Duck Breast with chrysanthemum and a house-made papaya sauce.
Sen’s tea and coffee selections are highlights, such as the Cafe Phin Vietnam, served in a multi-tiered unit that allows the coffee to drip into condensed milk, and the Sen Tea, which requires a seven-hour brewing process. For the food-adventurous, Sen serves as both a treat and a retreat.
3 3/4 out of 4 forks
2901 W. Cary St., 804-355-0736
Hours: Monday, and Wednesday to Friday: 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 5 to 10 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Prices: $3 to $11
