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La Bodega is located at 104 N. 18th St. in Shockoe Bottom.
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Decorative payphone in La Bodega
Few things give me pause like overly long menus. They tend to be unfocused, with an approach that tries to please everyone but ends in mediocrity. The menu at La Bodega, in the space formerly occupied by The Luncheonette at 104 N. 18th St., is long, but it also makes sense. Ranging from breakfast dishes to sandwiches, empanadas and pupusas, it's exactly the kind of food you would expect to find in a Latin-influenced New York City bodega.
During my first visit, I grazed solely off the appetizer portion of the menu, opting for the queso frito and the croquetas de jamón. The fried cheese dish was a revelation, gooey yet firm, with a beautiful, mildly tangy taste of queso fresco. The drizzled honey may have been a bit over the top, but I’ll worry about my blood sugar tomorrow. The croquetas weren’t quite as earth-shattering, but they were enjoyable. Between the ham and the creamy potato, the fried snack filled me up quickly, so I’d recommend ordering them only if you have someone to share with.
On a return visit, I decided to sample the Cubano — a traditional pressed sandwich of ham, roast pork, mustard, Swiss cheese and pickles. Purists might kvetch that replacing the roast pork with pulled pork means it's not a real Cuban, but the tang from the pulled pork played well with the sharp bite of the pickle.
Of course, with Richmond’s summer heat, something refreshing to drink was in order. La Bodega offers a welcoming array of house-made aguas frescas, a traditional mix of fruit juices with a touch of lime and sweetener added. If you prefer something a little stronger, try the Puerto Rican Coquito — a mix of overproof rum, condensed and coconut milk, vanilla and cinnamon.
