A hula dancer performs during brunch at Perch.
I just want to stress,” said the server, “that the whole fish ... is a whole fish.”
So began my first experience of Perch, Chef-owner Mike Ledesma’s Pacific Rim-inspired restaurant in Scott’s Addition. After assurances that our table was ready and willing to receive something that still had its head — many diners are unpleasantly surprised when the entree comes out, our server explained — he left to put in our order.
Chef-owner Mike Ledesma
Perch, which opened in September, attempts to walk a line between an approachable casual destination and a sophisticated, urbane fine-dining restaurant — it often ends up caught in the middle. Although it’s selling cutting-edge design and bright, bold flavors, what you get, overall, is a tad more timid.
Housed in the former Joy Garden space on Broad Street, Perch features a towering glass entryway that opens to an airy dining room with an open kitchen and a massive wood-fired oven. The interior balances between light wood, vivid blues, clean white tile and lots of contemporary touches.
In contrast, the back room boasts an aquarium vibe, with dark carpet and sea-inspired walls. A projector plays a video of vibrant, gliding jellyfish, and a long glass wall allows diners to still catch a glimpse of the action in the kitchen.
Spicy Malaysian shrimp
The menu is a collection of dishes displaying the influence of Ledesma’s background and travels: The son of Filipino immigrants, he has lived on the East Coast and in Hawaii, where he trained as a chef. There’s lumpia and pimento crab dip; maki rolls and a New York strip; and a kale salad with dried cherries. It’s a menu that requires a wide array of skills to effectively pull off.
While my table awaited our creature from the deep, appetizers and drinks began to arrive. Perch’s cocktail menu is fresh, bright and heavily inspired by tiki culture, featuring a lineup of drinks that are creative and thoughtful without taking themselves too seriously. The Bolivian Bombshell (Thai chili-infused singani; cardamom-kaffir lime syrup; coconut milk; lemon; aquafaba; and mole bitters) is creamy and tart, with just enough salinity to offset the sweetness. And it’s impossible not to feel cheered while sipping the Safe at Last, a mix of tequila, lemongrass, kalamansi, demerara sugar and blue curacao that’s served in a whale-shaped glass with an orchid and a paper umbrella.
The dining room at Perch
Appetizers were a bit more uneven. The ceviche was missing all the acidic integrity that classically makes this dish great. The papaya salad was similarly missing that vigor. While the pork that topped the salad was well-executed, with a tinge of sweetness, and the roasted peanuts added a lovely crunch, my table wondered: Where was the fish sauce funk in the salad? The tartness from lime? Everything left me wanting a little more punch.
The same concerns extended to that aforementioned whole fish. On my visit it was a snapper, the top of which was cooked beautifully, while the underside was nearly raw. Although the fish quality itself was lovely, for the price tag ($28), I would have rather cooked it at home.
Fried chicken banh mi
The pork belly ($22) was where the meal fell apart. The rich, tender texture I expect was missing; instead it was more like a jerky. Was it overcooked? Did it sit too long before it made it to our table? The sides served with it, however, hit the mark — a pile of creamy, cardamom-singed rice grits, bites of earthy pickled bok choy and perfectly cooked mushrooms added depth. But they could not overcome the failings of the main attraction.
Now, the good news: There are many promising options at Perch. The mussels, flawlessly prepared and swimming in a luscious spiced coconut broth, were a highlight. The Spicy Malaysian Shrimp, provocative and piquant, was also a favorite. Its brilliant red-chili-inflected sauce was precisely the wake-up my palate was craving, and the fried crispy rice cake in the center packed a pleasing balance of creaminess and crunch.
Perch’s upscale twist on Filipino halo-halo with goat’s milk ube ice cream, leche flan, compressed pineapple and fresh fruit
Brunch is where Perch truly finds its footing; daytime diners can enjoy the expansive main room, and bask in an abundance of natural light and casual, hearty food that proves to be better executed. The fried chicken banh mi lacks seasoning in the breading, but the pickly sharp kimchi and a slather of mayo more than save the day. Lolo Boi’s — a hearty plate stacked with silky eggs, rice, sweet Filipino sausage, potatoes and Spam — is a prime example of a savory comfort breakfast at its finest. Take it up a notch with a flavorful and spicy bloody mary, served snack-style with a shrimp and a pickle, along with a few rolls of pan de sal joined by a sweet whipped butter — the perfect starter.
Overall, the service is warm and attentive. Ledesma himself was a fixture in the dining room on all my visits, stopping by tables and greeting diners — a nice touch. But the food is too uneven. Perch may have stretched itself slightly thin trying to please both the casual and the fine-dining crowd. Right now, my wallet says go for brunch or lunch, where entrees run between $12 to $18, and the food doesn’t have as much to prove.
3 out of 5 stars
2918 W. Broad St.
804-559-3344
$5 to $32
