Upon entry, Wing Command on Hull Street Road looks like a great sports bar, with its NFL logos, beer posters and multiple flat-screen TVs. Its list of wings is long, with intriguing flavors. But the real attraction is amazing Filipino food.
The cuisine of the Philippines reflects the Southeast Asian island nation's long history, its colonization by Spain and its geography. Vinegar, soy sauce, shallots, garlic and ginger all play on the tongue.
At Wing Command, we started with lumpia, the Filipino version of spring rolls (pictured), fried to perfection and served with a light sweet-and-sour sauce. They're crispy, crunchy and tasty.
The next choices were difficult, but we ordered the pork adobo, the best I have had since I left Honolulu — tangy, complex and completely amazing. Pork lovers might also want to try the lechon kawali, morsels of deep-fried roast pork. I still can't figure out what was in the dipping sauce, but it complemented the pork perfectly. The crunchy coating of the fried pork covered velvety meat. It is a good thing we ordered the small size, because we would have devoured every scrap that we could get our hands on.
The Filipino menu is entensive, and the proprietors are smart enough to have different sizes. So my friend and I ordered the short-rib soup in addition to two pork dishes. Full of vegetables, the soup was finished with the tart tang of vinegar. The broth was delectable.
We both noted that none of the fried foods seemed overly greasy. Most important, the oil — from soybeans — was fresh, and no leftover flavors spoiled it.
We didn't have room for the pancit, the famous dish of the Philippines. It consists of rice noodles with chicken, vegetables and seasonings. I suppose that could be a good excuse to return, but I don't think I need any reason other than the tastes and flavors that make this a great food find.
