Hot and new can steal the spotlight, but what about longstanding local favorites? Each month, we’ll visit a Richmond-area restaurant that has been in business 15 years or longer.
The Hill Cafe (Photo by Jay Paul)
Keeping the concept of the neighborhood restaurant alive, The Hill Cafe has been holding court at the corner of Broad and North 28th streets since 1989.
The business and building were purchased from the original owner in 2000 by Richmond Restaurant Group’s Jared Golden, Michelle Williams and Ted Wallof. “It’s small, it’s cozy; you don’t always find that. It has Richmond charm,” Golden says.
Inside, there are snug, dimly lit booths and a chalkboard listing daily specials. Regulars roll up for comforting blue plates of fried chicken and meatloaf with gravy. During lunch, City Hall workers come for California clubs, burgers and Brussels sprouts.
The “Cheers” of Church Hill, the cafe’s easygoing, everybody-is-welcome charm has attracted not only loyal regulars, but also longtime staff. “There’s something great about having a spot that is approachable and not too expensive and that you can go to every day, and I think a lot of it has been the staffing,” Golden says.
Listing tenured employees who have been clocking in for a decade or more, Golden also credits monumental manager and bartender Staples Macdonald, a 24-year Hill Cafe veteran. “That’s one of the few restaurants we have where everyone works like a team, they’re all just professional,” Golden says.
