Twist on Tradition

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Recipes by Rabbi Andrew A. Goodman • Styling by Elliott Shaffner

When he was growing up, Rabbi Andrew Goodman was part of the only Jewish family in Woodbury, Connecticut, and his family worked hard to make holidays special.

Traditional Jewish foods were always a big part of their celebrations. “Food was love, culture and celebration,” he says. “For me, Judaism and food were synonymous.”

Today, Goodman, who is the campus rabbi and director of Jewish Life at the University of Richmond, is an accomplished cook. While he was a student at Hebrew Union College in New York, he was head chef for the school’s soup kitchen. During his first assignment as a rabbi in Plattsburg, New York, he began teaching cooking classes to his congregation. When he moved to Richmond with his husband, Jesse Gallop, associate rabbi at Congregation Beth Ahabah, in 2010, he taught classes on “Jewish soul food” at the synagogue. And he’s currently working toward his Baking and Pastry Arts certificate through the University of Richmond’s Center for Culinary Arts.

Goodman is especially interested in the intersection of Jewish history, food and culture. Jews in Eastern Europe appropriated and adapted foods such as stuffed cabbage and potato pancakes, while those in Israel adopted Mediterranean foods like falafel and hummus, he says. “Now, they are all thought of as part of Jewish culture.”

The eight-day festival of Hanukkah, which this year begins on the evening of Dec. 16, is all about fried foods to commemorate the importance of oil during the holiday which celebrates a miracle that allowed the lamps in the rededicated Temple of Jerusalem to burn for eight days when there was only enough oil for one night.

In addition to doughnuts, potato latkes traditionally grace the Hanukkah table. Though Goodman has mastered the recipes for those traditional dishes, he likes to think creatively when planning his holiday menu.  

This year, he plans to serve beet, zucchini and sweet potato latkes alongside the traditional version, and spiced brioche doughnuts beside classic sufganiyot. He’s also created a new take on an old fashioned cocktail.

Goodman and Gallop will celebrate Hanukkah for the first time as parents this year. Their twin boys were born in September. “I am really excited to do for the boys what my parents did for me,” Goodman says. “I want them to see how special the holidays are by cooking that special, once-a-year dish to imbue the holidays with excitement.”

Recipes to follow: Beet, Zucchini and Swet Potato Latkes; Ginger Applesauce; Chipotle-Chive Sour Cream; Classic Potato Latkes; Classic Sufganiyot; Raspberry Filling; Pumpkin Pastry Cream; A New-Fashioned Old-Fashioned Cocktail; and Spiced Brioche Doughnuts

Beet, Zucchini and Sweet Potato Latkes

Ingredients

  • 2 cups of grated sweet potato (about 1 large sweet potato)
  • 2 cups of grated zucchini (about 2 medium zucchini)
  • 1/2 cup of grated red onion (about 1 small onion)
  • 2] cups of beets
  • 4 eggs
  • 1/2 cup of flour
  • 2 teaspoons of salt
  • 2 teaspoons of mild curry powder
  • 1 teaspoon of garlic powder
  • 1 teaspoon of black pepper
  • Oil for frying

Directions

1. Peel the sweet potato. Coarsely grate it by hand, then coarsely grate the zucchini. Finely grate the onion. Peel the beets and coarsely grate them.  

2. Using cheesecloth or a kitchen towel, squeeze out as much liquid from the vegetables as possible.

3. Transfer the vegetables to a bowl and stir in the eggs, flour and seasonings.

4. Heat ¼-inch of oil in a large nonstick skillet over moderately high heat until the oil reaches about 375° F. Working in batches, spoon 2 tablespoons of the vegetable mixture per latke into the skillet, spreading into 3-inch rounds with a fork.

5. Reduce heat to medium and cook the latkes for about 5 minutes until the undersides are browned. Turn the latkes over and cook until the undersides are browned again, about 5 minutes more.

6. Transfer the latkes to paper towels to drain. Add more oil to the skillet as needed. Be sure oil reheats fully before adding a new batch of latkes.

7. Serve the latkes warm, topped with chipotle-chive sour cream. Makes 24 latkes.

Ginger Applesauce

Ingredients 

  • 4 pounds of Granny Smith apples
  • 1/2 cup of granulated sugar
  • 1 tablespoon of fresh gingerroot, minced
  • 1 teaspoon of lemon zest
  • 6 ounces of water
  • 1/2 teaspoon of cinnamon

Directions

1. Peel the apples and set the peels aside. Core and chop the apples into ½-inch cubes.

2. Puree the apple peels, gingerroot, lemon zest and water in a food processor.

3. Combine all of the ingredients in a saucepan.

4. Bring the mixture to a boil. Cover it and reduce heat to a simmer.

5. Cook the mixture for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.

6. Remove the mixture from the heat and lightly mash it to the desired consistency (I prefer a chunkier applesauce so I mash very little).

7. Cover the mixture and refrigerate overnight.

Chipotle-Chive Sour Cream

Ingredients

  • 8 ounces of sour cream
  • 4 tablespoons of chives, chopped
  • 1/2 teaspoon of ground chipotle pepper
  • Salt and pepper to taste

Directions

1. Combine all of the ingredients in a bowl and stir to incorporate. Adjust the salt and pepper as needed.

2. Refrigerate the mixture and serve it cold. If any separation occurs, just stir it to reincorporate the liquid into the sour cream

Classic Potato Latkes

Ingredients

  • 2 1/2 pounds of starchy potatoes
  • 1 medium onion
  • 2 eggs
  • 1/4 cup of flour
  • 1 teaspoon of salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon of black pepper
  • Canola oil for frying

Directions 

1. Working quickly to prevent discoloration, peel the potatoes and coarsely grate them by hand. Finely grate the onion.

2. Using cheesecloth or a kitchen towel, squeeze out as much liquid from the potatoes and onion as possible.

3. Transfer the vegetables to a bowl and stir in the eggs, flour, salt and pepper.

4. Heat ¼-inch of oil in a large nonstick skillet over moderately high heat until it reaches 375° F, or until a piece of potato browns after one minute. Working in batches, spoon 2 tablespoons of the potato mixture per latke into the skillet, spreading it into 3-inch rounds with a fork.

5. Reduce to moderate heat and cook for about 5 minutes, until the undersides of the latkes are browned. Turn the latkes over and cook until the undersides are browned again, about 5 minutes more.

6. Transfer the latkes to paper towels to drain the oil. Add more oil to the skillet as needed to complete cooking the rest of the latkes, waiting for the oil to reach roughly 375° F for each batch.

7. Serve the latkes warm and topped with ginger applesauce. Makes 24 latkes.

Classic Sufganiyot

Ingredients

  • 2 tablespoons of active dry yeast
  • 1/4 cup of granulated sugar
  • 3/4 cup of whole milk (warmed to 90 to 100°F)
  • 2 cups of all-purpose flour
  • Pinch of salt
  • 1 teaspoon of cinnamon
  • 2 egg yolks (at room temperature)
  • 2 tablespoons of butter (at room temperature)
  • Canola oil for frying
  • Powdered sugar for garnish

Directions 

1. Combine the yeast, sugar and milk in a bowl and proof the yeast for 5 minutes. It should be very frothy.

2. Sift the flour, salt and cinnamon into a separate large bowl. Make a well in the dry ingredients and pour the milk mixture and egg yolks into the well. Stir the mixture until the dough holds together.  

3. Turn the dough out onto the counter and knead it until it is smooth and supple, for about 3 minutes. Then, incorporate the butter into the dough and knead it until it is fully dispersed.

4. Place the dough into a greased bowl and cover it with plastic wrap. Refrigerate the dough overnight.

5. The day you make the doughnuts, take the dough out of the bowl and turn it onto a floured work surface. Roll the dough to ½-inch thickness. Using a 2-inch biscuit cutter, cut the dough into discs. When necessary, gather the dough, reroll it and continue to cut dough discs. Cover the dough discs with plastic wrap and let them rest for 20 minutes.

6. Heat 3 inches of oil in an uncovered Dutch oven to 375° F. Fry the discs, a few at a time, until they are golden and puffed, turning frequently. Cook 5 to 7 minutes.

7. Remove the doughnuts from the oil using a slotted spoon and let them drain on paper towels.

8. Let the doughnuts cool slightly. While they are cooling, fill a pastry bag, fitted with a 1/2-inch round tip, with the raspberry filling. Insert the tip into the end of each doughnut and pipe approximately 1 tablespoon of filling inside. Dust the doughnuts with powdered sugar and serve. Makes 24 doughnuts.

Raspberry Filling

Ingredients

  • 12 ounces of raspberries (fresh or frozen)
  • 1/2 cup of granulated sugar
  • 2 tablespoons of cornstarch
  • 2 tablespoons of water
  • 2 teaspoons of lemon zest
  • 1/2 teaspoon of vanilla extract

Directions 

1. Combine all of the ingredients in a small saucepan.

2. Bring the mixture to a boil then reduce it to a simmer, stirring frequently.

3. Cook until the berries have reduced and the mixture has thickened slightly.

4. Remove the mixture from the heat and add the vanilla extract.

5. Transfer the mixture to a bowl and cover it with plastic wrap. Refrigerate until it is cold.

Pumpkin Pastry Cream (paired with Spiced Brioche Doughnuts recipe)

Ingredients

  • 2 cups of whole milk
  • 6 egg yolks
  • 1/2 cup of pumpkin puree
  • 1/2 cup of granulated sugar
  • 5 tablespoons of cornstarch
  • 1 teaspoon of cinnamon
  • 1/2 teaspoon of nutmeg
  • 1/2 teaspoon of ground cloves
  • 2 teaspoons of vanilla extract

Directions 

1. In a medium saucepan, heat the milk over medium heat until it comes to a simmer.

2. While the milk is heating, whisk together the egg yolks, pumpkin puree, sugar, cornstarch, cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves in a medium bowl.

3. Whisking constantly, slowly pour the hot milk into the egg mixture ½-cup at a time until all of it has been incorporated.

4. Pour the mixture back into the saucepan, and cook it over medium-high heat, whisking constantly until it simmers and thickens, for about 2 minutes.

5. Remove the mixture from the heat and whisk in the vanilla extract.

6. Transfer the mixture to a bowl and press plastic wrap directly onto the surface. Refrigerate until it is cold.

New Fashioned Old-Fashioned Cocktail

Ingredients

  • 1/2 teaspoon of granulated sugar
  • 3 dashes of Peychaud’s bitters
  • 3 Luxardo Gourmet
  • Maraschino cherries
  • 2 strips of orange peel, one cut into a 1-inch circle and one cut into a twist, for garnish
  • 1/2 ounce of cinnamon liqueur
  • 2 ounces of bourbon

Directions   

1. Place the sugar, bitters, two cherries and one strip of orange peel in the bottom of an old-fashioned glass. Muddle the ingredients to release the oils in the orange peel.

2. Remove the orange peel from the glass.

3. Add the cinnamon liqueur and the bourbon, then fill the glass with ice.

4. Garnish the drink with a cherry and an orange twist.

Spiced Brioche Doughnuts

Ingredients

  • 1/4 cup of bread flour
  • 1 tablespoon of active dry yeast
  • 1/2 cup of whole milk (warmed to 90 to 100⁰F)
  • 4 cups of bread flour
  • 2 1/2 tablespoons of granulated sugar
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons of salt
  • 3 teaspoons of cinnamon
  • 1 teaspoon of ground nutmeg
  • 1 teaspoon of ground allspice
  • 1 teaspoon of ground cloves
  • 1 teaspoon of ground ginger
  • 5 eggs (at room temperature)
  • 2 cups of unsalted butter (at room temperature)
  • Canola oil for frying
  • 1/4 cup of powdered sugar and 1 tablespoon of cinnamon, mixed for garnish

Directions 

1. Stir ¼ cup of bread flour, yeast and milk together in the bowl of a stand mixer and let it sit for 15 minutes.

2. Sift the rest of the flour, sugar, salt, cinnamon and other spices together in a separate bowl.  

3. Using the paddle attachment of the mixer, incorporate the eggs into the milk mixture, one at a time. Add the dry ingredients to the bowl and mix on low until the dough holds together.  Then, add 1/4 cup of butter at a time, mixing on medium until each addition is incorporated.

4. Turn the dough onto a parchment-covered tray. Press the dough to be about ½-inch thick. Cover the dough with plastic wrap and refrigerate it overnight.

5. The day you make the doughnuts, take the dough off of the tray and place it onto a floured work surface. Using a 2-inch biscuit cutter, cut the dough into discs. When necessary, gather the dough, reroll it and continue to cut dough discs. Cover the dough with plastic wrap and let it rise for 2 hours.

6. Heat 3 inches of oil in an uncovered Dutch oven to 375⁰ F. Fry the discs, a few at a time, until they are golden and puffed, turning them frequently, 5 to 7 minutes.

7. Remove the doughnuts from the oil using a slotted spoon and let the doughnuts drain on paper towels.

8. While the doughnuts are cooling, fill a pastry bag, fitted with a 1/2-inch round tip, with pumpkin pastry cream. Insert the tip into the end of each doughnut and pipe approximately 1 tablespoon of filling inside. Dust the doughnuts with cinnamon powdered sugar and serve. Makes 18 doughnuts.