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THE SWEETEST THING
It looks like a scallion on steroids, but that, my friend, is a leek, and around this time of year, the sweetest member of the allium family is at its peak.
BUYING AND COOKING
Whether purchased from the farmers market or the grocery store, leeks require plenty of cleaning. Separate the white portion from the green tops (save those for stock), and then soak them in cold water to remove any grit. Toss them in a salad spinner if you have one; if not, drain them cut side down. From there, you can simmer, fry or braise your way to subtle, oniony deliciousness.
AROUND RVA
The Stables: Black pepper bacon garnishes this velvety soup of root vegetables and leeks to marvelous effect.
Proper Pie Co.: Leeks mingle with smoked salmon and potatoes in this flaky hand pie.
Blue Atlas: Joining pan-seared arctic char, leeks live in harmony with roasted Brussels sprouts and celery root.
Executive Chef John Kincaid, Can Can Brasserie (Photo by Julianne Tripp)
LOCAL FLAVOR
At the Carytown mainstay Can Can Brasserie, Executive Chef John Kincaid recently introduced a creamy, bubbly leek gratin to the menu. While the restaurant’s French onion soup garners much attention, Kincaid points out that leeks’ admirable qualities include “their mild flavor and the quickness and ease of preparation.”
RECIPE
Lemony Braised Leeks
By Stephanie Ganz
These beauties don’t need much work to help them shine. Here, fresh spring leeks are seared hard before being braised in white wine and vegetable stock. Add a knob of butter to enrich the braising liquid and a sprinkle of chopped parsley and chives to finish.
4 leeks
1 tablespoon olive oil
1/3 cup dry white wine
1 1/2 cups vegetable stock
Kosher salt and black pepper
2 tablespoons salted butter, room temperature
1 lemon, zested and juiced
2 tablespoons Italian parsley, chopped
1 tablespoon chives, finely chopped
Slice leeks lengthwise down the center and place in a bowl of water, fanning out the rings to allow any soil or sand to float to the bottom of the bowl. Rinse under cold water, checking for lingering sand, and then pat dry with paper towels.
Heat olive oil in a saute pan over medium heat and add leeks, cut side down. Use a spatula to press them down until you hear the leeks sizzle. Continue pressing and sauteing on the cut side for about five minutes, until a deep golden brown color appears. The leeks may begin sticking a bit, but that’s OK.
Deglaze the pan with the white wine, loosening the leeks from the pan. Add vegetable stock and allow to simmer for 10-15 minutes or until the leeks are soft. Flip them over and cook for another minute. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Lower the heat to low and swirl in the butter. Add lemon zest, lemon juice, and more salt and pepper as needed. Remove from heat and plate in a shallow bowl with the braising liquid. Garnish with lemon zest, parsley and chives.
