Illustration by Katie McBride
HISTORY
To judge only by appearances, celeriac, or celery root, is a troll of a vegetable, hiding just under the soil and languishing, unloved, on grocery shelves. Beneath its mottled, gnarled exterior, though, lies an ivory-colored flesh with a subtly anisette flavor capable of replacing — and besting — potatoes in soups, gratins and roasts all winter. Generations past knew well its value: The cold-weather vegetable has historic medicinal applications that date back to Homer’s “Odyssey,” and it was in wide circulation in Europe by the 17th century.
WHAT TO BUY
Dense, small celeriac lacking blemishes is ideal. Choose roots that lack stems or remove them, which will help to stall the chances of your celeriac rotting in the fridge. Add any discarded stems to your next stock. Store celeriac loosely wrapped in a kitchen towel in the crisper box for several weeks. As it ages, the root will lose some of its flavor and grow hollow in the middle.
HOW TO PREPARE
Purchase more celeriac than you think you’ll need, since around 30 percent is lost to peeling. To that end, a sharp paring knife, rather than a peeler, is best. To avoid oxidation, store peeled celeriac in water with a few squeezes of lemon until it’s time to cook. Celeriac pairs well with fish and fowl and can be boiled, roasted, fried or eaten raw (in, say, a French-style remoulade salad).
Celeriac Soup With Peanuts and Red Wine-Raisin Puree
Serves 4
By Caleb Shriver of Dutch & Company
Celeriac Soup
1 medium-sized celery root, peeled and diced
1 quart heavy cream
Kosher salt to taste
Place all ingredients into a 4-quart stainless steel pot and simmer over medium heat until the root is tender (about 20 minutes). Once it’s tender, transfer to a blender and blend until smooth and velvety. Transfer back to a 4-quart stainless steel pot and hold until you’re ready to reheat.
Chili-Spiced Beef Fat
4 tablespoons peanuts (toasted and crushed)
¼ teaspoon clove powder
1 teaspoon allspice powder
4 tablespoons ancho powder or chili powder
¼ cup rendered beef fat or olive oil
Kosher salt to taste
Heat rendered beef fat until melted, then combine with the rest of the ingredients. Keep warm until ready to serve.
Red Wine-Raisin Puree
¾ cup raisins
¹⁄₈ cup red wine
¹⁄₈ cup red wine vinegar
Kosher salt to taste
Combine all ingredients in a nonreactive container and allow raisins to plump for 30 minutes. Then transfer to a blender and blend until smooth. Transfer to a squeeze bottle and reserve at room temperature until ready to serve.
To Serve
Reheat celeriac soup and pour 5 ounces into each bowl. Drizzle chili-spiced beef fat over each portion of soup. Then squeeze 10 small dots of the red wine-raisin puree onto the surface of the soup. Serve immediately.
