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First mentioned around the turn of the last century, the martini began as a rather sweet cocktail that evolved from the Martinez, a drink using maraschino liqueur. After London dry gin was introduced, the drink evolved into a drier and crisper version.
At Metzger Bar & Butchery, Kjell Anderson stirs up a compelling play on the Martinez called “Watch the Suit,” and he uses apricot liqueur instead of maraschino liqueur.
Anderson had his first martini at a TGI Fridays on his 21st birthday. He hated it. After, the bartender offered to add cranberry juice to fix it, olives and all. Nowadays Anderson goes with a classic 2-to-1 martini, using Monkey 47 gin and Carpano Dry vermouth.
The Making of a Martini
Funny thing about the martini — if you ask most bartenders, they’d say it should be stirred for silky smooth delight, but the original was in fact shaken. (Score one for Mr. Bond.)
Rob Nebergall of Shockoe Bottom’s Carmela’s holds that stirring or shaking a martini is situational, and he believes that like citrus, olive juice needs aeration.
“Lots of people order martinis not really knowing what they’re getting into, not knowing how to order a martini,” says Nebergall, who favors a dry martini, one with less vermouth. “You just have to have a conversation.”
Now running the show at Longoven’s bar, Sophia Kim’s favorite way to martini is a 1-to-1 ratio of Ford’s gin and Dolin dry vermouth, with three dashes of orange bitters and a twist. It's about simplicity and the perfect ratio. “The quality of the components make the quality of the drink,” says Kim, who has been working to perfect a tequila martini.
The Martini is one of those cocktails that has undergone so many permutations and evolutions that it’s largely a matter of personal preference. Some people know exactly how they want their Martini after much practice. Others like to defer to the bartender’s expertise. Either way, it's a great segue into a conversation on craft and palate, and easily reveals how experienced, attuned, and adaptable a bartender can be.
5 Crucial Questions Your Bartender Should Ask if You Order a Martini
1. Gin or vodka?
People often just say, “Martini please,” without specifying which defaults to gin. Savvy bartenders remember to ask. Some fortunate bartenders also have more than one dry vermouth available, which should also be part of the conversation.
2. Up or on the rocks?
After stirring or shaking, up drinks are strained free of ice; usually served in a stemmed coupe or martini glass. The downside of an up martini is that you have a shot-clock before the drink gets too warm to enjoy.
3. Classic or dry?
The original Martini was made with Old Tom gin, a sweeter version than the London Dry that modern palates are used to, plus sweet Italian vermouth (rosso). So back then when they said dry they meant less vermouth. The terminology stuck even when the drink changed to dry vermouth. Standard Martini ratio in most bars is 2 ounces gin + 1 ounce dry vermouth.
4. Olive and/or lemon twist?
This is entirely personal preference, and somewhat dependent upon which gin you use. Some gins lean toward fruity/berry/citrus, and taste terrible with salty, bitter olives. Other gins are more herbal and benefit from a savory garnish or even a touch of olive juice.
5. Would you like another?
No explanation necessary.
’TINI TIME IN RICHMOND
Watch the Suit
Kjell Anderson, Metzger Bar & Butchery
1 1/2 ounces Hayman’s Old Tom gin
3/4 ounce Carpano Antica rosso vermouth
Barspoon (1/2 tsp) Marie Brizard Apry (apricot liqueur)
3 dashes Peychaud’s bitters
Stir with ice and strain into a Nick & Nora glass (type of coupe). Express a lemon peel over the surface and discard.
Old Tom Old Fashioned
Rob Nebergall, Carmela’s
2 ounces Ransom Old Tom gin
1/4 ounce Cocchi Americano
2-3 dashes orange bitters
Stir with ice and strain over fresh ice in a rocks glass. Express a lime twist over the surface.
Moon Pool
Sophia Kim, Longoven
2 ounces EVOO-washed Linie Aquavit (directions below)
1 ounce Dolin dry vermouth
1 dash Copper & Kings absinthe
Combine ingredients and stir with ice for 45 seconds. Garnish with a lemon twist & thyme sprig.
Olive Oil Fat Wash
1/2 cup high-quality olive oil
750ml (1 bottle) Linie Aquavit (substitute gin if you must)
Combine in a glass jar and shake until incorporated. Let sit in a cool, dark place for 48 hours, periodically shaking the jar. After 48 hours, place jar in freezer overnight. Set up a strainer with cheesecloth and strain immediately. Frozen olive oil thaws quickly. Store fat-washed aquavit in the fridge.
