The cod sandwich from Nokoribi is an homage to McDonald’s Filet-O-Fish. (Photo courtesy The Veil Brewing Co./Nokoribi)
Special sauce, a Blizzard being flipped upside down, gleaming golden arches — the smells, tastes and memories linked to such sights are incredibly vivid. And the effect that these not-so-healthy, yet beloved bites have on our pleasure centers is undeniable. But why are fast-food staples so alluring?
Jeffrey Green, a professor at Virginia Commonwealth University who specializes in social psychology, says, “I think we are particularly nostalgic for music and foods and people from the most formative time in our lives, our childhood and early adulthood.”
For many of us, such as Smashed RVA owner Michael Marshall, growing up included trips through the drive-thru at McDonald’s and other fast-food standbys. “I got picked up by my mom, it’s 8 o’clock at night after sports practice, let’s grab some McDoubles. … It just hits home,” he says.
“Fast-food chains definitely take advantage of nostalgia, because franchises have to be highly similar and predictable,” Green explains. “We know what the decor and the menu and the process will be like before we set foot in a franchise.”
That predictability is comforting. Green has studied nostalgia for over 30 years and, more recently, its relation to food. He describes the emotion as “particularly positive,” something that is “inextricably tied to our personal memories.”
“The nostalgia that people experience from foods enhances their feelings of social connection, boosts self-esteem and increases how much meaning in life they feel.”
Feel-good Food
Local eateries and food trucks have embraced the throwback trend and created their own spins on the fast-food and snack-time classics of our younger days.
Stanley’s, Ecto Cooler Cocktail
Fruit juice makers Hi-C and the “Ghostbusters” film franchise teamed up for a collaboration that first sparked joy — then sugar rushes — among late ’80s youth. Ecto Cooler, the tangerine- and orange-flavored drink with a wild-eyed, tongue-out mascot, was an instant juice box success. Stanley’s co-owner James Kohler says the beverage, which has returned to stores with “Ghostbusters” sequels as recently as 2021, inspired an adult-version at the Fan hoagie den.
Nokoribi, Cod Sandwich
When an oddly beloved chain classic and an acclaimed chef with a knack for fermentation join forces, the result is one of the most succulent bar bites in the city. At Nokoribi, The Veil Brewing Co.’s in-house Japanese-inspired restaurant, Andrew Manning has rolled out a seriously leveled up, indulgent Filet-O-Fish doppelgänger. Beer-battered cod is fried, blanketed with American cheese and placed atop a brioche bun, with iceberg lettuce, pickled daikon and yuzu mayo joining the party.
1115 Mobile Kitchen, Snack Wrap
Chicken tenders swaddled by a tortilla: an obvious, yet uncharted option until McDonald’s made it a hit in 2006. Food truck 1115 Mobile Kitchen introduced its own version with lettuce, tomatoes and ranch dressing for pop-ups including Vast Food, where they teamed up with Smashed RVA and Jiji Frozen Custard. They’ve also rolled out a McCluckin’ chicken sandwich or Cluckin’ Selects, aka crispy tenders, served with housemade sauce — vegan options always.
The Oreo Matterhorn from Study Hall (Photo courtesy Study Hall)
Study Hall, Matterhorn
Say hello to the frozen dessert — possible thanks to the online discovery of a proprietary machine straight “from the source” — that shall not be named. So much so that the owners of Study Hall were issued a cease-and-desist order in January, months after Study Hall’s riff on the spoon-stabbed confections originally debuted. Reintroduced as Matterhorns, the soft-serve treats have included renditions such as Milk and Cookies and Peanut Butter Oreo.
Jiji Frozen Custard, McBlurry
The running joke about McDonald’s: The McFlurry machine is always broken. Fear not, Jiji Frozen Custard quashes all rumors and potential memes when it pulls up to themed events with fellow food trucks and a menu of McBlurries. Specializing in Wisconsin-style custard, the truck blends its housemade frozen treats with chunks of M&M’s and Oreos for a superior substitute.
Neighbor, Tribute Sandwiches
For MacArthur Avenue’s Neighbor, the nostalgia lies in the names. The menu is dotted with references to beloved neighbors from TV history, such as a pork barbecue sandwich dubbed the Boomhauer, an ode to the nearly incomprehensible cartoon character on “King of the Hill,” and their chicken sandwich, aka Mrs. Chanandler Bong, a nod to a popular “Friends” episode.
The McSmash burger from Smashed RVA (Photo courtesy Smashed RVA)
Smashed RVA, McSmash
If there is a local king of burger riffs, it is Smashed RVA owner Michael Marshall, who has drawn crowds by mimicking the menus of burger bigwigs such as In-N-Out, McDonald’s, White Castle and Wendy’s using beef from Seven Hills Food. Other nostalgia triggers are the restaurant’s Baja Limeade, a nod to the originally Taco Bell-exclusive Mountain Dew Baja Blast, and the recently introduced Smashed McRib.
TBT El Gallo, Richmond Miguel’s Tortas
Melding his Mexican heritage and Richmond roots, TBT El Gallo taqueria owner Carlos Ordaz-Nunez is known
for infusing his personality into the menu. While he has brought the classic “Live Mas” vibes of Taco Bell with items from a Cheesy Gordita Crunch to Fiesta Potatoes, the fun doesn’t stop there. A fan of sub chain Jersey Mike’s, he has hosted his own homage dubbed Richmond Miguel’s Tortas, serving stuffed Mexican sandwiches.
Elegant Cuizines, ‘Junk Food’
Every Tuesday through Saturday, Elegant Cuizines presents a vegan-friendly lineup of craveable “junk food.” Aiming to appeal to nearby VCU students, chef-owner Theresa Headen offers dairy-free nosh from a plant-based fish filet sandwich to a turkey cheeseburger. Takeout only, the affordable remixes range from $7 to $12.50.
Intergalactic Tacos, Crunch-y Wrap Supreme
One of the OG nostalgia inducers, Brian Graff of food truck Intergalactic Tacos recently asked customers to shout out their most beloved throwback bite, and the Crunch-y Wrap Supreme took the title. A hefty take on the Taco Bell classic, Intergalactic’s version features a base of choice (beef or chicken from Sylvanaqua Farms or potatoes for meat-free folks), pico de gallo, lettuce, housemade rocket sauce and pickled onions sandwiched between a tostada, folded and grilled to perfection.
