Sunset from Kabana Rooftop (Photo by Piet E. Jones)
Shout It From the Rooftops
Pork belly confit with potato croquette and poached egg yolk (Photo by Piet E. Jones)
Picture this: a smoke-filled dome, tendrils swirling around something intriguing inside. The dome is removed; the smoke dissipates. The contents become clearer, a beautiful square of pork belly confit (from Autumn Olive Farms) resting on a crispy potato croquette with a stunning yellow poached egg yolk atop them both. Gently puncture that yolk and watch it ooze down the sides, adding a rich creaminess to an already decadent dish.
Such a dish you might expect to find at some of the hotter spots in town, the ones that grace the local and regional best-of lists. In this case, though, it’s someplace you might think of first as a drinking destination.
The culinary talent behind this week’s relaunch of Kabana Rooftop (700 E. Main St.) is Executive Chef Mike Ledesma, formerly of Richmond Restaurant Group, Max’s on Broad and Patina. Drawing on his Filipino heritage to create dishes like coconut curry mussels, Ledesma aims to make the the rooftop bar more than just a late-night hotspot but also a dining destination — with a caveat:
“I don’t want the food to compete with the view,” says Ledesma.
Perhaps, but with snacks such as the peppered rosemary cashews or entrees such as the tandoori rack of lamb to grab your attention, you might just miss the sun setting over the James.
Dog Days of Summer
Ever want to take your canine friend out for happy hour? Well, today (Aug. 10) you can. Casa del Barco (320 S. 12th St.) is opening up its “dog-friendly” patio to all dog lovers and partnering with Venture Richmond for drink specials and Instagram photo shoots for you and your best friend from 4 to 7 p.m. Lucky owners will be featured on Venture Richmond’s social media, and special-edition dog-centric RVA stickers will be passed out to participants. Look for Casa del Barco’s third location to be opening up in Chesterfield Towne Center sometime in 2018.
Get That Brisket While You Can
ZZQ has captured the hearts and minds of RVA BBQ lovers and even managed to garner more than a bit of regional and national notice for their slow-cooked and smoked meats. Alas, their partnership with Ardent Craft Ales (3200 W. Leigh St.) is coming to an end after nearly two and a half years. This Saturday (Aug. 12) will be the official last day of their pop-up series with the Scott’s Addition brewery. Well, unless you venture out for the industry night on Monday (Aug. 14) to rub elbows with the people who serve and make the wonderful food across our city. Fortunately, the sorrow will be short-lived; ZZQ is aiming for a January opening of its permanent home just next door.
News From Beyond
In a World of Change, They Didn't
They say, if it works, don’t change it. The world’s oldest restaurant is Sobrino de Botín, opened in Madrid in 1725. They are known mainly for one thing, the same thing since opening almost three centuries ago, and they do it well — suckling pig. They serve about 50 of the 9-pound pigs a day. Hemingway was a regular, and it is still a big tourist draw. Just keep in mind, they’ll allow you in for pictures before service, but don’t even try to Instagram your meal.
Here Are the Rules
Everything in life has certain rules that may or may not be written. Here are a few you might want to keep in mind if you ever think you might return to a restaurant for a second visit.
Sometimes You Just Need Fries
Everyone has their own method for making the perfect french fry. For me, I’ve been using the double-fry method for years — par frying at a medium temperature, allowing them to cool, then finishing them in much hotter oil to a beautiful crispy brown. It’s a great method, but a little messy. But there’s another way (free login required), one where you simmer the potatoes in oil at a low temp and then crank it up, all in one batch and with less mess. Something to ponder and perhaps try.
