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Willoughby Obenchain, owner and baker of Secret Squares
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Detroit-style pizza from Secret Squares
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Secret Squares will take over the Nile space at 306 N. 29th St. in Church Hill
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Detroit-style pie from Secret Squares topped with Ezzo pepperoni cups, red sauce, ricotta and a drizzle of hot honey.
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Christmas-themed variety from Secret Squares with pesto and ricotta
Willoughby Obenchain has been playing the part of nomadic baking wizard — long locks and all — for the last few years. The founder of the cult-favorite pizza pop-up Secret Squares has busted out a portable oven on the side of a mountain, served slices in the middle of a tomato farm, attracted lines outside The Jasper during events and turned Tuesday into one of the crispiest nights of the week with a nearly year-and-a-half-long residency at The Kitchen Classroom.
Originally conceptualized as a word-of-mouth, in-the know offering — hence the name — Secret Squares has risen to become a local pizza phenomenon. The one place Obenchain hasn’t baked, however, is in a building of his own — until now. Aiming for a spring opening, Secret Squares plans to debut a brick-and-mortar pizza shop at 306 N. 29th St., currently home to Nile. The Ethiopian restaurant will close its doors on Jan. 7, its 18th anniversary.
“I’ve had a line in the water mentally since I started this,” Obenchain says of his opening own shop.
Specializing in sourdough, Detroit-style musings, Secret Square pizzas are marked by their thick, chewy crust and crispy edges featuring spikes of frico (fried cheese). Obenchain’s gateway slice came a few years ago when a friend delivered a square straight from the Michigan city. Unfamiliar with lesser-known, more process-driven Detroit-style pizza, he became enamored from the first bite.
“I was like, wow, this is very different and interesting, but no one else is doing this around here and I want to eat it again. It was birthed out of necessity,” Obenchain says. “It kind of got out of control and I started sharing it with people because I needed more practice.”
That infatuation would lead to ordering a lineup of special pans and gifting pizzas to friends and family, followed by sporadic sales announced over Instagram. Hosting his first official pop-up in the beginning of 2021, Obenchain has been on a roll since, clocking in over 100 events. Just a few months ago, he adopted an online ordering portal that sends text alerts to customers when ordering goes live. Despite recently upping his volume by 75%, the naturally leavened pizzas have been selling out in minutes.
"Some people come every week or get multiple [pies] every week, and it’s really cool to see that, because it definitely means I’m doing something right,” he says. “In a place like Richmond, you have to have a bit more of a loyal following."
The steady rhythm has presented Obenchain the opportunity to slowly and thoughtfully level up operations while simultaneously honing his recipes — although he’s remained loyal to his sourdough.
“I’ve used the same starter the whole time. The dough is the most important part; that’s what sets your pizza apart from other people,” says Obenchain, who practices a 72-hour cold ferment that lends a distinct flavor. “I’ve benefited tremendously from folks welcoming me into their space and letting me kind of develop my product and following and stuff, and using their space and developing myself as a business owner. I certainly hope to do that for other people.”
Described as a takeout-focused venture, Secret Squares will be home to a walkup counter with a handful of tables inside and out front. Patrons will be able to order pizza by the pie and by the square, and beer and wine will also be available. The menu is expected to include about eight mainstays, such as the Roni, made with Ezzo supreme pepperoni, ricotta, red sauce, a drizzle of hot honey and parmesan; the Susie Greenberg, with Mayor Meats sausage, mushrooms and basil pesto; and a holiday-themed Christmas pie dotted with red sauce, pesto and ricotta. There will also be a handful of round pies.
An avid Phish fan, Obenchain is not afraid to dabble in slightly zany ’za territory. His offerings have included a green bean casserole Thanksgiving drop, a sandwich-inspired series and seasonal specialties adorned with everything from Village Garden heirloom tomatoes to freshly plucked chicken of the woods mushrooms.
While Obenchain, who prioritizes pizza pitstops and R&D during his travels, has daydreamed of a restaurant, he recognizes the food’s portability and says the forthcoming space checks all the boxes for his pizza-making needs. There is even a downstairs area that has been delightfully dubbed "the dough-jo."
“The fact of the matter is, most people want pizza to pick up and take home,” says Obenchain, who hopes to also navigate delivery. “It kind of turned from this romantic restaurant idea into a more straightforward, kind of pickup scenario, which helped me decided the type of building. I wanted something small, more straightforward.”
Raised in Clarksville, Virginia, Obenchain cites pizza as a common, cheesy theme throughout his life. Growing up, Friday nights were dedicated to pizza, and his school lunches were often packed with sourdough bread baked by his mom. With a background in education and business management, he hopes those skills will come in handy for training a crew of people who are excited about making pizza. He’s also looking forward to having a pizza home base.
“There’s been all these moments that progress you towards your ideal,” Obenchain says. “You strive for something but always wanting to get better, something I’m constantly trying to improve. The whole process, the whole thing, not just the dough or not just making pizza, has been so new to me. I’m learning every step of the way and super excited for this next chapter.”
For the most up-to-date details on its opening, follow Secret Squares on Instagram.
