1 of 5
People's Pie chef and co-owner Craig Perkinson
2 of 5
The Bar Pie, featuring tomatoes from Perkinson's garden, mushroom "meatballs," mozzarella and crispy spelt crust
3 of 5
Pizza topped with 'roni cups and ramps
4 of 5
Squid-ink pizza with clams, ricotta, miso and goat-milk brie from Perkinson's "Pizza and Wine Social" at Southbound last year
5 of 5
An experimental Detroit-style pie with olive salad, sesame-bottom crust, salami, a provolone/cheddar blend, prosciutto and basil
A year ago around this time, Craig Perkinson, former executive chef at Richmond's Southbound, hosted his first-ever pizza pop-up. It was a multicourse evening of sorts with pies ranging from a fluffy meat-lovers' focaccia to a classic pepperoni and an innovative pie featuring squid ink with ricotta, miso and clams.
After Perkinson left Southbound last September, he said with confidence, “[In] 2020 I will make it happen. Stay tuned.” He was talking about a future pizza shop.
Anyone who follows Perkinson on Instagram has witnessed his pizza journey. There are videos of jiggly dough “babies” and side shots showcasing air pockets in crust; pizzas with an array of toppings including local tomatoes, pickled baby corn, potatoes, salami and smoked collards; and frequent use of the hashtags #ilovethedoughmorethanyouknow and #itsdoughtime.
Perkinson’s devotion to the dough has been unwavering for the past year. There were private pizza parties, one where he slung upwards of 120 pies with the help of Lee Gregory, chef-owner of Alewife and Southbound. He held pop-ups in Church Hill and made pizzas in his backyard using a Roccbox, a portable standing oven. And Perkinson talked shop with the celebrated former pizza maker at South Side's Galley Go-To, Guistino Riccio, even visiting pizza joints states away to talk with other chefs. Like a mad scientist with his dough, Perkinson tested different starters, hydration levels, fermentation lengths and grains.
Friends of the 38-year-old and regular diners at Southbound prior to his leaving have been the consumers of early versions of his pizza, playing a part in his continuing R & D. “We ate pizza pretty much every day at work, and the cooks loved it and regulars would get it, and I got good feedback,” Perkinson says, noting that he first began to really experiment with dough about six years ago when Longoven’s Andrew Manning worked at Southbound.
“I kept hearing a lot of ‘This isn’t like everything else, it’s different,' ” he adds. “I realized I could get food to more people through pizza.”
People’s Pie has been a labor of love in the making, and as we stand inside the forthcoming grab-and-go pizza shop at 2930 W. Broad St. in Scott’s Addition, Perkinson, covered in flour, excitedly shows me around the space that will open its doors by mid-April.
Although the Johnson & Wales graduate and Richmond native has run a kitchen, this marks his first time in the role of restaurant owner. He is joined in this new chapter by seasoned restaurateur Ian Newell, owner of Goatocado, who grew the health-conscious company from a food cart on the VCU campus to a Main Street mainstay.
“I’m a meat lovers' kind of guy, so having Ian — he’s vegetarian — brings a nice balance,” Perkinson says with a laugh, noting that the duo were introduced months ago and immediately hit it off.
The pizza at People’s Pie is described as “East Coast naturally leavened,” teetering between New York and Neapolitan styles. Perkinson says cheese and pepperoni will be menu staples, along with about five daily pizza specials. Detroit-style pies — square, pan-baked creations known for their light and airy dough; thick, crispy crust; and addictively crunchy cheese edges called frico — will be available and can be made gluten-free. There are also mentions of “No Waste” vegetarian pies once the growing season is in full swing, geared toward utilizing bulk quantities of produce and other leftover ingredients.
Salads and sandwiches will eventually be available, but Perkinson notes that they will start slowly and gradually add to their offerings. Dessert options include house-made cookies and soft-serve. Vegans are not forgotten: Newell has created an olive oil plant-based soft-serve treat that Perkinson says is “killer.”
A grab-and-go area will offer wine, typically one white and one red, and the duo aim to keep the price point of bottles around $15. As for nonalcoholic options, they will craft sparkling house-made beverages such as ginger ale and limeade.
Perkinson plans to partner with Autumn Olive Farms and Manakintowne Specialty Growers and grow additional produce on a local farm. He is currently working with Row 7 Seed Company, a New-York based outfit led by Dan Barber — the James Beard Award-winning chef and co-owner of the Blue Hill at Stone Barns restaurant — to grow tomatoes for the restaurant's sauces. In addition, he hopes to work with area butchers and sausage purveyors, though the chef says, “I still want to use some of my own charcuterie skills."
When asked if his culinary background has aided in developing some not-so-average pizza concepts, Perkinson responds, “Yeah, definitely. I think it’s cool because I can get a little weird and be a little different and use some of those techniques.”
But at the end of the day, he says with a smile, “it’s pizza.”
People’s Pie will be open Tuesday through Thursday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., and Friday through Sunday from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Delivery will be available, including delivery to breweries and businesses in Scott’s Addition via bikes and Bird Scooters. Perkinson plans to launch Monday pizza-making classes in the future.
