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La Bodega aims to bring a "taste of New York to RVA."
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The open kitchen at La Bodega allows diners to catch a glimpse of the action.
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The intimate dining room at La Bodega is scattered with two- and four-top tables.
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The bar at La Bodega features specialty cocktails, draft beer, wine and 40s of malt liquor.
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Inside La Bodega
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The inside of the space is designed to look like a neighborhood bodega and has an urban vibe.
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The menu at La Bodega features breakfast options all day.
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Back portion of the menu at La Bodega
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Beer menu at La Bodega
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The cocktail list at La Bodega
A taste of New York City has hit Shockoe Bottom after the husband-and-wife duo behind Mijas and Margaritas Cantina, Carlos and Adrienne Londoño, opened La Bodega March 12 at 104 N. 18th St. in the former Luncheonette space.
“Bodegas are common in New York,” says co-owner Carlos Londoño, a Queens native who aims to re-create the vibe of the corner stores that anchor neighborhoods in the five boroughs.
“We put the ‘La’ in front to differentiate that this is a restaurant, but we wanted to give that New York, Latin culture feel," he says.
The Londoños acquired the space six months ago, and viewed it as an opportunity to move beyond the traditional Mexican foods served at their other outposts and showcase the flavors and blend of cultures Carlos experienced growing up.
Londoño shares that when developing the menu, it simply required taking a step back and reflecting on the foods that he was accustomed to enjoying before moving to Richmond — the Dominican restaurants with steamy windows and the continual hiss of the grill, the “deluxe” meals at diners where sides were always included, the carts selling hot dogs and pretzels on the street, and the art of eating and walking that defines a true New Yorker.
“Thinking of the menu was so simple for me,” says Londoño, whose family is originally from Colombia. “We wanted to do something different, and this is what I grew up knowing.”
For diners, deciding what to eat may not be so simple. The double-sided menu is a conglomeration of Puerto Rican, Dominican, Colombian and a melting pot of other cuisines, reflecting the diversity of New York City, which La Bodega aspires to share with the Richmond community.
Appetizers range from Cuban-inspired ham croquettes served with a house-made bodega sauce to Salvadoran masa cakes or pupusas, fried pork ribs, and a Jamaican beef patty inside coco bread — a pita-esque pocket made using coconut milk.
Breakfast will be offered all day, presenting traditional options including omelettes, waffles and French toast, but sprinkled with Latin influences such as the El Colombiano, a hefty serving of huevos pericos (Colombian scrambled eggs), rice, pinto beans and chorizo, with an arepa instead of a biscuit, or a stack of horchata hotcakes made with sweet milk, vanilla and cinnamon.
A section of the menu is titled “From the Iconic NYC Hot Dog Stand” and features the famous Sabrett all-beef frankfurters, known for their snap, along with pretzels and crispy, square potato knishes.
The entrees on the menu, dubbed "Latin Soul Food," include shredded roasted pork with pineapple; a Colombian platter, Bandeja Paisa, comprised of chicharrones and carne asada; and Bistec Palomilla, or pan-fried beef steak, all served with rice, pinto or black beans and tostones. A whole section of dishes, titled “Cuchifritos,” spotlights blood, Dominican and Colombian sausages as well as pork chops, pork belly, ribs and chicken.
“These items are staples to us, just like in Virginia when people have sweet tea and Brunswick stew,” explains Londoño.
The open kitchen allows diners to catch a glimpse of 31-year-old chef Jose Yax in action. Yax was part of the opening team at Mijas and has known Londoño for 15 years.
Desserts range from flan and tres leches cake to horchata custard, Mexican paletas (aka Popsicles) and a Puerto Rican coconut pudding called tembleque.
The bar features 16 signature cocktails that draw inspiration from traditional drinks and Caribbean elements. Many pay homage to Londoño's family, such as "Viviana’s Punch," named for his daughter; "The Hipster," a Bronx Brewery IPA and a shot of bourbon, dedicated to his brother who owns a bar in Brooklyn; and the "Yo, Adrienne," a boozy milkshake with Licor 43, vodka and milk, shaken and served "on the Rocky’s."
Beer drinkers have options on draft, in cans and bottles, and, a rarity in the city, 40s — a sizable 40-ounce serving of either Colt 45 or Old English malt liquor.
Londoño hopes to re-create the bodega aura beyond the dish, and provide a community gathering spot where people feel comfortable hanging out and interacting with others. During a visit on opening day a handful of diners had their chairs turned toward one another, and despite sitting at the bar and various tables, everyone was socializing.
Londoño says, “We’re going for that bodega feel in New York and how people are sitting around drinking, eating and talking. That's what we want here.”
La Bodega is currently open every day from 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. The restaurant may close on Mondays in the future.
