(From left) Ellie Basch (Photo by Jay Paul), Katy Best (Photo courtesy Katy Best) and Michelle Parrish (Photo by Eileen Mellon)
Monday, March 8, marks the 110th International Women’s Day, an annual day dedicated to recognizing the vast achievements by women in science, arts, the culinary field and beyond. In honor of this year’s theme, Choose to Challenge, we spoke with women in Richmond’s food and beverage industry, encouraging them to share and celebrate fellow women leaders and their standout creations.
Loretta Montano
Executive chef, Stella’s Grocery and Little Nickel
“This past year was tough on many levels, especially for restaurant folks. One especially bright spot for me was seeing this badass chef, artist, mom and my friend, Liz Roberts, conquer the pop-up game with Ghost Ship Sandwiches. I had the pleasure of eating at several of her pop-ups, and they were all amazing. I can’t even pick one favorite sandwich, but the turkey with prosciutto (turkey and crispy prosciutto with melted provolone, garlic mayo, spinach and red onion) and roast beef sandwich (roast beef with fresh mozzarella, roasted red peppers, spinach, horseradish spread and a side of au jus) really stand out. And the onion dip and chips are addictive.”
Katy Best
General manager, Alewife
"Shannon Hood's cobblers at Brenner Pass, and Lindsey Scheer's Caribe Negroni — I love that they’re just clean, well-executed, familiar versions of my favorite drinks. They both have fantastic flavor profiles that balance what you love about a classic, but in an improved iteration. It’s the same with their service and bartending style. They’re so talented and knowledgeable but approachable and friendly. That lack of pretense is so welcome and refreshing, especially in an industry that can really be egoic."
Jannequin Bennett
Chef-owner of Manchester's Table
“Nour Al-Aawar at Lebanese Bakery makes za’atar pita chips and baba ghanoush at her family restaurant near Tan-A Market. The ultra-thin rounds of pita are topped with flavorful za’atar seasoning that pairs perfectly with their assertively smoky baba ghanoush. The roasted eggplant spread is leaner than some renditions, giving it a chunky, satisfying meatiness that’s totally vegan.”
Ellie Basch
Chef and co-owner, Everyday Gourmet
“A generous slice of not-too-sweet, moist apple cake from The Broken Tulip, made by chef and co-owner Sariann Lehrer, who is committed to supporting local farmers. The apple cake is made with Agriberry Farms apples, and their freshness perfumes the cake beautifully. Delicate notes of cinnamon, nutmeg and allspice, and a little crunch from the pecans make this apple cake even more memorable.
“Secco Wine Bar’s seafood escabeche is outstanding. Executive Chef Julie Heins takes care when cooking seafood so it’s still snappy and juicy, not rubbery. The crostini that [accompany] the dish are well made, too. Crostini is simple, yet can be fickle to make just right."
Yeshareg Demisse
Executive chef/managing partner, Nile
“My favorite dish is the garlic shrimp (sauteed in white-wine butter and topped with garlic aioli) from C’est Le Vin downtown. Chef Erica White does a fantastic job."
Michelle Williams
Chef and co-owner, Richmond Restaurant Group
“I love [chef-owner of Black Lodge, Brenner Pass, and Metzger Bar & Butchery] Brittanny Anderson’s chicken liver mousse. It’s just the right amount of decadent and so luscious. She once catered a birthday dinner for me, and my only request was this mousse; I left the rest of the menu to her.”
Sara Adduci
Cheesemonger
“Spring is my favorite season of the year, but for me, it doesn’t really begin until I have my first heaping spoonful of Caromont Farm fresh chevre. This simple goat’s milk cheese is a true reflection of the love that Gail Hobbs-Page puts into everything she does on her farm in Esmont, Virginia. It is bright, citrusy, soft and downright delightful. It can make even the most die-hard, anti-goat’s-milk person realize the error of their ways after one small, tentative bite. It is the most flexible cheese you could ever ask for in the kitchen, whether you add it to scrambled eggs, slather it on a sandwich, roll it in herbs or spices, or just eat it, unadorned, straight out of the tub. While there are so many cheeses that Gail makes that I adore, it is this humble softie that really makes my heart sing."
Morgan Botwinick
Pastry chef and owner, Whisk
“I [want to] recognize the Richmond general manager of Starr Hill Brewery, Allie Hochman. She was instrumental in opening their location here and oversees the day-to-day operations. For someone in a male-dominated industry, she is clearly a leader at the company. She's handled their response to the pandemic, from delivery to safe indoor service, in a really admirable way.”
Michelle Parrish
Chef-owner, Soul N' Vinegar
"I immediately thought of Julia [Battaglini] at Secco and her wine — the wine she chooses, and how I have never had a bad sip. I know her wine is going to be delicious and have depth."