The Rogue Gentlemen will soon reopen as Rogue in its space in Jackson Ward at 618 N. First St. (Photo by Piet E. Jones)
It’s been a month since frozen pipes burst in the apartment above The Rogue Gentlemen, flooding the space and shutting down service. The doors are still shuttered, but if you drive past, you’ll notice something different in the windows. The logo has changed.
Yep, it’s official. The Rogue Gentlemen is no more. Rising in its place: Rogue.
Where TRG was inspired by the Prohibition-era speakeasies, “dark and sexy,” Rogue will have more of a late 1950s, early 1960s vibe, with lighter floors and gold geometric wallpaper behind the bar to complement the new logo in the window. The metal bar stools and heavy-framed mirrors will be gone. In their place will be upholstered Midcentury-style chairs and stools with framed artwork, inspired by four years of themed cocktail menus on the walls.
Where, before, owner John Maher strove to make TRG a premiere cocktail spot, a somewhat more robust kitchen space will allow Chef Will Longoria to get more creative with the food — such as a Dr. Pepper and Fernet-braised short rib with potato aligot (the cheese-and-potato dish that went viral while RVA was hiding in their homes from the cold). For all intents and purposes, entrees are off the menu at Rogue. In their place will be creative small plates that are meant to be shared, and there will be a focus on tasting menus, ranging from three to nine courses, along with wine pairings to bring it all together.
Rogue owner John Maher inside the in-progress space (Photo by Piet E. Jones)
Once a month or so, Maher will step behind the line for his in-house pop-up, Le Mec. Utilizing his training at legendary restaurants like The French Laundry, Maher hopes to perfect French cooking with a fresh, modern, neighborhood feel. The approach will be something more rustic and homey than classical French cuisine, such as pig trotters with sauce gribiche (a French egg salad) over frisee. The pop-up nights are intended to form the basis for a brick-and-mortar Le Mec once Maher finds the right, intimate spot he’s looking for.
Cocktails will, of course, still be a big deal at Rogue, but the fanciful, quarterly themed menus will give way to a more traditional, seasonal list. To complement the seasonal list, they’ll offer a special professionally bound hardback that patrons can buy for their home bar that will include recipes for four cocktails and their components, from bitters to orgeats. The first cocktail book will draw on movie directors for inspiration, such as Wes Anderson, with the cocktails evoking more of an emotional interpretation.
The water damage might have put a damper on the party at TRG, but Maher is turning lemons into lemonade and using the opportunity to keep “pushing boundaries” at his little First Street eatery.
Look for Rogue to open its doors sometime next week, with the first cocktail book showing up in a month or so.
