The following is an online extra from our September 2020 issue.
Kamlesh Kundalia has owned Laxmi Palace, touted as Virginia's largest vegetarian supermarket, for nearly 20 years.
Richmond magazine: Why did you move to Richmond, and what are your thoughts on the city?
Laxmi Palace owner Kamlesh Kundalia
Kamlesh Kundalia: I had family here, and they said it was a good place to raise children. It’s a great community; it’s cozy and comfortable. Everyone looks out for one another. Once people move to Richmond they do not want to leave. You feel so connected here. This community has helped us greatly. I came here with absolutely nothing, and because of this community, I am here. Their help has meant a lot.
RM: Do any of your family members work with you?
Kundalia: No, none of my actual family works here, but the staff here have become family over the years. My oldest staff member has been here 18 years. We essentially inherited him with the business. [Laughs] The others have been here anywhere from 10 to 15 years. My staff treats this business like their own. They are just like family. They can scold me, they can laugh at me. They’re my family, not just employees.
Note: The gentleman he “inherited” is known affectionately to customers as “Kaka” and can frequently be found working at Laxmi Palace.
RM: Other than its concentration on Indian food, how is Laxmi Palace different from other Richmond-area grocery stores?
Kundalia: We are very unique in that we do not sell any tobacco, alcohol or meat. Once an inspector came by and he was so surprised that we don’t have these types of items. He said that made his job "too easy"!
RM: Why do you think Indian food is so popular in Richmond?
Kundalia: Indian food is so healthy. We have many medicinal herbs and spices with healing properties. They’ve been around for thousands of years. Indian staples are very simple, and we have a diet enriched with lentils, whole wheat, rice and vegetables. The biggest misconception is that everyone thinks [Indian food] is really spicy, but it’s not.
RM: Social media has made international cuisine a lot more accessible in recent years and taken a lot of the “mystery” out of Indian food. How do you help promote Indian cuisine to the general public?
Kundalia: We always have customers who come in here asking questions about recipes they see on YouTube, and we always help them out with what they need. We are always very eager to help anyone, and one way to encourage them is to spread the word.
RM: What are some of your favorite things to cook?
Kundalia: [Laughs] I cannot cook anything whatsoever! I never cook. My wife is a strict Jain, and I am, too. We eat Sattvic foods without garlic, onions or foods that grow underground. One thing she makes that I like is khichdi.
RM: Explain a bit more about Jainism.
Kundalia: In Jainism we don’t eat anything that grows under the ground, because it does not get any sunlight, so there is a lot of bacteria. We prefer to eat whatever grows above ground. We are vegetarians. We also prefer to eat after sunrise and before sunset. I helped build a huge Jain facility in Richmond, where we make free food every Sunday to feed the community. We have done a lot of community events at this facility.
Note: The Jain Society of Central Virginia is located in Henrico County at 8704 Park Central Drive. It offers events, activities and education for the hundreds of Jains in the Richmond area.
RM: With a large Indian population Richmond, there are a number of Indian grocery stores in this area. How does that affect your business, and what is the relationship like between you and your competitors?
Kundalia: I think everybody does well. There is a lot of demand for Indian groceries, especially in this area, with such a huge Indian population. We all work together, and everyone flourishes. I’m very positive, and I try to do everything the right way. The rest is up to destiny.
Khichdi is an Indian comfort food dish made with lentils and rice.
Khichdi
Savory rice and lentil porridge
One of the best kept secrets of Indian cuisine, khichdi is the kind of comfort food that goes well with a rainy day (but you don’t have to wait for rain to enjoy it). Khichdi can be made with many different combinations of lentils (aka dal) and rice. It’s made with ghee, or clarified butter, and turmeric, which I always say is like a warm hug for your insides.
Note: Since this recipe calls for garlic, it is not a Jain-approved version.
1/3 cup white rice
1/3 cup yellow moong dal (petite yellow split lentils)
2 tablespoons toor dal (yellow split pigeon pea)
3 to 4 cloves garlic, chopped
2 tablespoons ghee
1/2 to 1 teaspoon ground turmeric
2-3 cups of water
Salt to taste
Though traditionally made in a pressure cooker on a stovetop, khichdi can also be made in an Instant Pot. Wash rice and dal together under running water, rinse thoroughly. Set aside. In a stock pot over medium heat, add ghee. Once melted, add in chopped garlic. Cook for about one to two minutes until garlic is fragrant. Mix in the washed/rinsed rice and dal, and add salt and turmeric. Combine everything and pour in water. Stir and let simmer for 30 to 45 minutes. Once cooked through, everything should be mushy and porridge-like. Add another dollop of ghee on top and enjoy while hot.
Optional toppings, as shown in photo: sauteed vegetables and spicy pickle.
