(Clockwise from left) Ashley Lewis and Antione "Roc" Meredith of The Beet Box, Helen Holmes of Ms. Girlee's Kitchen, and Ida Mamusu of Africanne on Main, among the participating eateries in this year's Richmond Black Restaurant Experience (Photos by Eileen Mellon, Jay Paul and Eileen Mellon)
Kelli Lemon thinks big picture. She is a hype woman for the Black community and its culture, co-founder of business hub The Jackson Ward Collective, and the owner of local coffee shop Urban Hang Suite.
Years ago, when she connected with friends Shemicia Bowen, who sits on the Urban League of Greater Richmond’s board of directors, and Amy Wentz, a candidate for 8th District Richmond City Council in 2020, to form Richmond Black Restaurant Experience, they had no idea that their vision to highlight Black-owned restaurants and businesses would become one of the city’s fastest growing food events.
Taking place from March 6-13, the annual weeklong celebration of Black-owned businesses from food trucks to eateries and caterers is officially underway, kicking off March 6 with the Mobile Soul Sunday food truck event.
“We are partners with these restaurants, we are communicators for these restaurants, we are advisors for these restaurants, advocates for these restaurants — it’s not just about 'Come and visit these restaurants this week,' it's 'Look at this Black culinary experience that happens 365 days of the year,' ” Lemon says.
The trio of founders recognized that there are layers to RBRE — from encouraging diners to visit new restaurants to discussing racial inequities in the industry, promoting and amplifying voices, and encouraging continuity within Black-owned businesses.
While the number of patrons and participants has grown, even attracting visitors from out of state, Lemon says that as far as the focus of RBRE — culture meeting cuisine and recognizing the importance of the Black culinary industry in the Richmond region — is concerned, “nothin’ has changed.”
“We want people to visit Richmond and experience the Black cuisine, but also get the story of how the enslaved were the cooks, how the enslaved were coming up with these dishes," she says.
When the Black Restaurant Experience made its debut in 2017, there were 19 restaurants participating; this year there are over 40.
Veteran participants include Family Secrets, James Beard Award-nominated Mama J's, the Eggleston family dining dynasty Croaker’s Spot and the Caribbean-inspired Charles' Kitchen. First-timers range from Suzy Sno, the second cool venture from Ruby Scoops' Rabia Kamara to established Ethiopian eatery Addis; Pop’s Market on Grace, which is now owned by Lillie Pearl team Mike Lindsey and wife Kimberly Love-Lindsey; the forthcoming whiskey and cigar lounge Brun, which will host special tastings and events throughout the week; and Jackson Ward’s newest arrival, The Deuce.
On Wednesday, March 9, RBRE will host a music-forward party to commemorate legendary rapper Notorious B.I.G at Vagabond, and on March 11, Art for the Soul presents a multicourse dinner prepared by Teeny B’s Catering at Studio Two Three, combining art, music and food, plus experiences from poetry readings at Brewer’s Cafe to live bands at Harlym Bluez.
For each year of RBRE, the trio of founders reflects not only on ways to better highlight the Black food community, but collect data from businesses following the event. Since its inception there have been around 80 participants reporting more than $3 million in collective revenue.
This summer, the Heart & Soul Brew Fest, an event Lemon founded in 2016 that in the past took place at Hardywood Park Craft Brewery, will move to Chimborazo Park on July 30 and be considered an umbrella event of RBRE.
Lemon says having a seat at the table for that event has allowed for her relationship with Hardywood to flourish, and in turn, presented another arena in which Black culture can be highlighted.
Currently, all the proceeds from Hardywood’s sales of Black Is Beautiful — an imperial stout re-released last month and brewed in support of social justice organizations — will be donated directly to RBRE.
And though Lemon says the organizers envision one day expanding RBRE into the Tidewater, Fredericksburg and Roanoke regions, she adds, "We've still got a lot to do in Richmond.”
“I think when we look back at over the last six years, we know what we're doing is needed, we know there are still people out there who are choosing to not diversify their palate and still know the resources when it comes to capital and education,” she says. “Black food needs to happen 365 days a year."
