Photo by Jay Paul
Near the intersection of Staples Mill and Hilliard roads, a black trailer with enticing lights, folding tables and chairs, and a lingering scent of slow-cooked suadero has found a home. El Chido, owned by 40-year-old Cruz Albanil, is a family business run by a Mexican immigrant who, upon entering the kitchen in America, discovered his passion for sharing the flavors of his culture — and his mother’s recipes — one torta at a time.
Richmond magazine: Why did you move to United States, and specifically, Richmond?
Cruz Albanil: I was looking for better opportunities, a better life for my family. I lived in New York when I first came. I had friends that lived in Richmond and told me it was good, and there were good schools.
RM: How did you get into cooking?
Albanil: I started working in restaurants and watching people cook. I began to help them and started learning and reading books. Since then, I’ve never stopped cooking. I love cooking all kinds of food — I know some French and Italian, but my Mexican is my main style.
RM: What did you do after arriving in Richmond?
Albanil: I worked at two restaurants in Ashland and Goochland, each for six years. I decided to start my own business and started selling food at construction sites with a little trailer.
RM: Is this your permanent spot?
Albanil: Yes. In the wintertime when it’s cold, it’s harder, but in the summertime, the tables are filled with people, and a lot of people park and talk and invite friends — it’s kind of like a party here.
RM: How many children do you have?
Albanil: Five: Jose, Adrian, David, Jennifer and Gabrielle.
RM: What do you enjoy doing in your free time?
Albanil: I try to spend it with family and go to the river or beach. I am so busy, and when I have business, I like to stay … and watch it and how people work and meet the customers.
RM: Do you make your own tortillas?
Albanil: We don’t for the tacos but do for the sopes, gorditas and huaraches — we make them to order. We make all the salsas and spices and meats.
RM: What is your favorite menu item to cook?
Albanil: The tortas — I love them, and people do, too. In Richmond I couldn’t find them when I started cooking them. We make 200 a week.
RM: What does “Chido” mean?
Albanil: It’s a popular word that people use in Mexico. “This is chido, this is really good or cool.”
