
Photo by Justin Vaughan
A good chef always has a secret ingredient up their jacket sleeve: a versatile staple for last-minute meals, or an unexpected spice to add a little oomph to finished dishes. What do some of Richmond’s top chefs hoard in their pantries? While their answers vary from the familiar to those that require a trip to a specialty store, all of them inspired and surprised us. Read on for a few grocery-store treasures to seek out for your own kitchen.
David Shannon: Ponzu Sauce
“To be honest,” says L’Opossum’s chef and owner, “I hardly ever cook at home” — a sentiment not uncommon among chefs. But, he says, “the one thing I always have on-hand is ponzu,” a citrusy Japanese sauce made with lemon, soy sauce, mirin and dried bonito flakes. “It’s great for potstickers and leftover takeout,” he adds. “There are several types available at Tan A; I always go for the one with little or no English. It comes with either lemon or lime.” Ponzu sauce, $3 per 10-ounce bottle at Tan A Supermarket (6221 W. Broad St., 285-3569)
Greg Johnson: Mango Pickle
Johnson’s cooking at Citizen is heavily inspired by his travels to destinations such as India, Pakistan, Afghanistan and Puerto Rico, and as such, he gets one of his favorite ingredients at Laxmi Palace, an Indian market in Richmond’s West End that he regularly visits for spices, condiments and other treasures. But his favorite? Deep Sweet’s jarred mango pickle sauce, which he serves atop everything from sausage sandwiches to goat cheese. “It’s got that sweet, that spicy,” he says. “It’s great to have around.” Deep Sweet Mango Pickle, $4 per 30-ounce jar at Laxmi Palace (3423 Old Parham Road, 217-7066)
Joe Sparatta: Kewpie Mayo and Gochujang
Sparatta loves Kewpie Mayonnaise, a lightly sweet and rich Japanese mayo with an addictive umami flavor thanks to MSG. He also has love for gochujang, a spicy chili- and fermented-soybean paste used in Korean cooking. “I always have them in both my house and the restaurants,” says the chef and co-owner of Heritage and Southbound. “They make a really quick and easy spicy mayo when mixed together that goes well with almost everything.” Sparatta puts that to use alongside crispy broccoli at Heritage, or French fries at home. Kewpie mayonnaise, roughly $6; gochujang, roughly $5, available at specialty grocery stores such as Tokyo Market (2820 W. Cary St., 353-2078)
Brittanny Anderson: Malt Powder and Malt Syrup
The chef and co-owner of Metzger Bar & Butchery keeps both stocked in her kitchen. Derived from sprouted grains, their earthy sweetness is a great substitute for sugar or honey. “We use [the syrup] in granola ... it adds sort of a funky yeastiness,” she says. Malt powder goes into waffles and shakes. Try replacing a small portion of sugar and experiment from there. Malt syrup, $7 per 20-ounce jar at Ellwood Thompson’s (4 N. Thompson St., 359-7525); malt powder available online through retailers such as Amazon. Find Chef Anderson’s recipe for malted waffles with maple butter here.
Sunny Baweja: Dried Pomegranate Seeds
When not at Lehja, Baweja favors low-prep foods he can eat at 1 a.m. while watching cricket matches: sandwiches on ciabatta, arugula salads, guac and chips. But on the rare occasion when he does cook at home, dried pomegranate seeds, or anardana, are one of his go-to ingredients. He recommends adding them to okra or other vegetable dishes to add a hint of depth and sourness. “I keep them always on-hand,” the chef and restaurateur says. “They give you that tanginess, that little bit of extra flavor.” Dried pomegranate seeds, $2 per 3.5-ounce bag at Laxmi Palace (3423 Old Parham Road, 217-7066)
David Dunlap: A Little of Everything
Dunlap has quite a few back-pocket ingredients he likes to use both at home and in Maple & Pine, the restaurant within Quirk Hotel. His favorite? Mae Ploy Thai Green Curry Paste. “It’s a great base for a quick dinner,” he says. He’s also a fan of Hondashi soup base, which he uses as a seasoning like salt: “It adds a nice amount of umami to just about anything.” He doesn’t limit his shopping to Richmond’s Asian markets, however; you’ll also find Ken’s Steakhouse Creamy Caesar Dressing and French’s fried onions. Mae Ploy Thai Green Curry Paste, $7 for a 14-ounce jar; Hondashi soup base, $5 for a 2-ounce jar; both available online and at most major grocery stores and Asian markets. Find Chef Dunlap’s recipe for Thai green curry here.
Will Longoria: Duke’s Mayonnaise
Like many chefs who find their inspiration in the South, the chef of The Rogue Gentlemen thinks the region’s most iconic mayonnaise — now celebrating its 100th birthday — is a classic for a reason: “Duke’s is so versatile,” Longoria says. “It’s great in a litany of dressings; we use it in the restaurant’s pimento cheese. And you can add it to cakes. In a pound cake, it’s a great substitute for a percentage of butter.” Duke’s Real Mayonnaise, roughly $3 per 16-ounce jar, available at most grocery stores