25 Best Restaurants

Best Restaurants

This is a (really great) article from 2010. While we have marked those that have closed their doors, you can see our most recent Best Restaurants lists here:

In a city with more than 600 restaurants, choosing what we think are the best 25 was a daunting task. To arrive at this list, we assembled a panel of seven food critics and writers.

Chef of the Year:

Lemaire's Walter Bundy

Plate Appeal A few of our writers' favorite orders from some other places besides the 25 restaurants spotlighted and gave them a couple of weeks to decide on their 15 top restaurants, scoring on several factors. Food quality and taste were most important, but our panelists also took into account the dining experience, a restaurant's consistency and innovation, and the value for what you're spending. After some discussion, a master list was created. The panel then visited additional restaurants, including some new places and others that have undergone significant changes. After that, we developed a list of 37 finalists and did a second round of scoring and ranking. But all these restaurants have an allure that goes beyond numbers. For our panel, they represent the best of what the area has to offer. They draw you in, stimulate your senses and make you want to share the experience.

Acacia Midtown

2601 W. Cary St., 562-0138

The new space has a minimalist feel. Beth Furgurson photo

At the top of his game, chef Dale Reitzer did something a little unusual: He moved and metaphorically downsized a successful restaurant. I say metaphorically because the space itself didn't get any smaller, but the scope of the menu did — in the best possible way. Reitzer took a second look at fancy restaurant fare and stepped back to something more akin to comfort food. He's also made a conscious effort to keep prices below $30. The food on Reitzer's always-changing menu is, if anything, even more exceptional than before, and his nightly prix-fixe menu for $23 is probably the best bargain in town. Order the fish (any fish) if you want to know what it's like to have it cooked by a master. —Brandon Fox

Café Rustica

414 E. Main St., 225-8811

European comfort food is chef Andy Howell's latest passion, manifested in a tucked-away 38-seat tavern downtown that's open for both lunch and dinner. You may have followed him around — from Zeus Gallery to Portabella's to Avenue 805, but you might not know he lived in Heidelberg as a youth, so the German cuisine on Café Rustica's reasonably priced menu has authenticity. Try the sauerbraten, its sauce thickened with ginger snaps. Another down-home favorite is the Portuguese fish stew — a hearty dish made with chunks of local fish, chorizo, onion, tomatoes and smoked paprika. —Karen Cauthen Miller

Balliceaux

203 N. Lombardy St., 355-3008

Owners Steve and Lainie Gratz made extensive renovations to the old Bogart's space. Beth Furgurson photo

Balliceaux splashed onto the scene as the hottest new restaurant in 2009, and there's a reason people keep going back. Whether you order a plate of artisanal cheeses or the roasted rainbow trout, chef Russell Cook's use of local ingredients imparts a distinctive Virginia taste. The dishes are presented not just for the eye but for the tongue as well; a shaved-lamb sandwich with pommery mustard aïoli and arugula is balanced evenly so you can enjoy all the flavors and textures. And busy families will appreciate the Sunday suppers with a Southern-influenced menu and portions sized to share among two to four people. —Piet Jones

Lemaire

101 W. Franklin St., 788-8000

With terrific results, The Jefferson Hotel's Lemaire has remodeled its gorgeous interior, moderated menu and wine prices and shucked any of the old stuffiness. They've also gone more local than ever. Rappahannock River Oysters, for example, is their sole bivalve supplier, and Sedley-based Dave and Dee's Homegrown Mushrooms are used with delicious results. Small plates — such as scallops ceviche and seared duck foie gras — give diners the option of sampling a variety, and entrée seekers will be equally pleased. Entrées top out at $30, and the service is as thorough as ever. You need to go. —Martin Gravely

Can Can Brasserie

3120 W. Cary St., 358-7274

I could eat all my meals at this French-style bistro, starting with almond croissants as early as 7 a.m., then the fried-oyster club at lunchtime or moules frites with pancetta, tarragon and mustard sauce in the late afternoon. Dinner entrées such as the sole meunière and grilled hanger steak bordelaise make me forget I'm in Richmond, and late at night, it's the perfect place for a house-made dessert, cheese plate or after-dinner drink. Even more amazing is that Can Can does all of this so well. And beginning in January, the restaurant will offer a prix-fixe menu with an entrée and soup or salad for $20, a nice option if you're on a tight budget. —PJ

Dd33 Asian Bistro (NOW CLOSED)

3601-A Cox Road, 747-8333

Dd33 Asian Bistro features Asian-fusion cuisine in a sophisticated and serene setting.  Owner David Du learned the restaurant business from his father, Dick Du, a partner in the Peking restaurants, and Dd33's name acknowledges this bond, combining their initials and their difference in age. Dd33's concept is to take classical French techniques and apply them to Asian ingredients. The results are outstanding dishes such as the falling-off-the-bone beef short ribs with a rich mushroom, soy and Coca-Cola glaze. This winter, David Du expects to make a few changes. "We hope to add some new menu items that will give a nod to traditional Southern influences." —Susan Early

Six Burner (NOW CLOSED)

1627 W. Main St., 353-4060

Grilled pork chop with farro, figs, dry-cured chorizo, blue cheese and espelette oil.

Steve Hedberg photo

The exciting news from Six Burner is the arrival of talented chef Philip Denny, who brings his love of the kitchen to a Fan favorite. Local, seasonal ingredients are used to prepare dishes with creativity and subtlety, such as braised short ribs and a pork-belly appetizer that is to die for. Meanwhile, manager Dave Martin is polishing the wine list, so look into Six Burner's wine dinners. Denny presents his fare so beautifully that it is essential to take a moment, admire, breathe in the enticing aroma and then dive in. —Hollister Lindley

Mezzanine

3433 W. Cary St., 353-2186

This small, two-story Carytown restaurant gets high marks on all counts — a flirty and attractive atmosphere, a vibrant menu that highlights native and seasonal fare with small plates a central focus, service that always comes with a smile, and a vibe that is both welcoming and exciting. When partners Randy O'Dell and Patrick Stamper persuaded chef Todd Johnson (who had worked for Wolfgang Puck) to join forces and move to Richmond, Carytown got a jolt of culinary adrenaline. The Parmesan cream sauce on the grits is pure heaven, so order it however it appears — with grilled shrimp or braised short ribs. A patio that expands the seating is perfect for people-watching in fair weather. —KM

1 North Belmont (NOW CLOSED)

1 N. Belmont Ave., 358-0050

Sometimes fine dining can be daunting. But lunch is a lovely way to engage in it at 1 North Belmont. The AAA four-diamond restaurant serves a wonderful midday meal that gives insight into chef/owner Frits Huntjens' exquisite talent. An elegant space with superb service and classically inspired cuisine, the French mainstay makes a classic vichyssoise that's a treat. The sausage from Belmont Butchery next door on a great baguette is grand, and there's always a daily special. If you want to be really nice to someone or charm a client, this is the ideal spot. —HL

Coast 1 (NOW CLOSED)

5806 Grove Ave., 288-8466

I wondered whether Coast would live up to my expectations after dining at Enoteca Sogno, owner Gary York's other restaurant, which is temporarily closed for relocation. The answer is yes. But the emphasis here is on seafood, not Italian classics. Among Coast's inventive dinner starters, my favorite is the seared sea scallops. The perfectly crusted scallops remain moist in the center, while the accompanying chive butter's richness and the serrano ham's saltiness make every bite enjoyable. The shrimp-and-grits entrée with a sherry-and-garlic cream sauce made me re-think my aversion to grits (why, yes, I am not from the South). And the signature jumbo lump crab cakes have just enough binder to hold them together, allowing the crabmeat's taste to shine. —PJ

Umi Sushi Bistro

11645 W. Broad St., 360-2077

Umi Sushi's pulido roll features seared white tuna, blackened tuna, avocado and jalepeño. Adam Ewing photo

Most local sushi joints get their fish from the same supplier, but Umi pampers theirs like a newborn. With 10 cold sakés and $3-per-piece Big Eye toro on the menu, Umi Sushi provides another reason to hit Short Pump (besides the Apple store). A helpful photo book allows you to see what you're ordering, and chef Xiao-Dan Wu's NYC cred translates into innovative, picture-perfect rolls, many of which are cooked, so sashimi fans don't hog all the fun. Also served: delicate Japanese calamari and bento boxes for $10 to $13. Don't miss the gorgeous Sadi Rolls and expert presentations of mackerel and tuna. And it's not just the food; midnight-blue lighting and stainless-steel chopsticks add sophistication to the experience. —Jason Tesauro

Mekong

6004 W. Broad St., 288-8929

Everyone will tell you how authentic Mekong is, and I have to say, I really couldn't care less. The food is good. Crispy spring rolls come out piping hot and full of deeply flavored ground pork, and the big bowls of My-Thô soup with flat noodles, chicken, pork, shrimp and cilantro all swimming in a long-simmered chicken broth will instantly beat down any virus foolish enough to defy it (well, at least you'll feel a little better after eating it). Owner An Bui's selection of Belgian beer is unparalleled, and if pushed, I might just have to admit that he also serves up some of the best Asian food in town. —BF

Full Kee Chinese Restaurant

6400 Horsepen Road, 673-2233

Full disclosure: I grew up in Honolulu eating some of the best Cantonese food outside of Hong Kong. Everywhere I have been on the mainland, I was searching in vain, until Full Kee. Here, you'll find incredible dim sum and a varied menu that's suitable for the experienced and the neophyte. You must try the eggplant with shrimp paste, the taro balls stuffed with pork — straight from the dim sum carts on the weekends — and any of the fresh greens or fish. This is what Chinese food is supposed to be. —HL

Patina Grill

3416 Lauderdale Drive, 360-8217

Patina Grill's wild-mushroom, roasted-tomato and queso chimichanga with rice, black beans and assorted sides. Sarah Walor photo

I know what I want from a restaurant: fresh ingredients, chef-owned, creative and changing cuisine, great service, and an atmosphere quiet enough that conversation is not an effort. And I found that at Patina Grill, owned by chef Brian Munford. Many wonderful appetizers make grazing fun, balanced with a lovely selection of wines by the glass. The cornmeal-dusted oysters are sublime, the Szechuan tea-smoked duck with wild rice and mushu vegetables is an Asian twist that works, and the braised lamb shank with butterscotch beans is the perfect cold-weather meal. —HL

Aziza's on Main

2110 E. Main St., 344-1523

Having leavened the baking scene with his namesake Billy Bread, Billy Fallen's gone back to his Lebanese roots. Lunch is fast and fabulous, and dinner changes with whatever's fresh. Count on simple, honest dishes cooked with olive oil, salt, pepper and garlic. Old family recipes abound with lamb or fish, or try the Koosa (squash stuffed with beef, rice, cinnamon and mint), gorgonzola-and-pear crostini, or de-friggin-licious beans, greens and daily soups. Aunt Rusty makes all the Lebanese dishes, including her famous cream puff. The changing wine list is mainly under $55, and with the new stone oven, breads, pizzas and expanded dinner service (currently offered only Thursday and Friday) will follow soon. —JT

Avalon (NOW CLOSED)

2619 W. Main St., 353-9709

If you haven't been to Avalon in a while, it's time you went back. It still looks the same since its last renovation, but the food is unexpectedly different. Small plates are on every menu in town, but Avalon gives them an authentic tapas flair with ingredients like serrano ham and smoky San Simon cheese, while concocting delectable Mediterranean mash-ups that defy regional boundaries. One dish matches piquillo peppers with shallots and mascarpone, with a little avocado added in case you might get bored. I just counted four different countries, and that's only one item on the menu. Grab a booth now, because when word gets out, you'll have to buy a plane ticket out of Richmond to get garlicky food this good. —BF

Black Sheep

901 W. Marshall St., 648-1300

Black Sheep's chef and co-owner, Kevin Roberts, gets ready to chow down on the USS Brooklyn, a "battleship" sandwich made with jerk barbecued chicken and shredded cabbage. Sarah Walor photo

Eclectic surroundings plus great food make for a fun dining experience at the Black Sheep. The playfulness carries over into the menu, which offers battleships instead of submarine sandwiches (under the heading "The War of Northern Ingestion"), dinner entrées such as Rebel Pot Roast, and a stellar dark-chocolate crème brûlée, studded with animal crackers and dubbed the La Brea Tarpit. And did I mention that breakfast is served daily until 2 p.m.? Chef and co-owner Kevin Roberts recently added a patio on the back. Come spring, he hopes to serve "nibbles and noshes" while people wait for a table. —SE

Mamma 'Zu

501 S. Pine St., 788-4205

Despite Mamma 'Zu's not entirely deserved reputation for surly service, the food at this Oregon Hill Italian restaurant is so amazing that the alleged abuse has become part of its legendary charm. They only take cash, checks or American Express, and you can't make a reservation, so you just might have to wait. The atmosphere is dark, with eclectic artwork that spans the gamut from a gigantic piece on plywood by Georgia Myers to a series of old-fashioned prints hung above the tables across from the ample bar — you really feel like you might be in a scene from The Godfather. Portions are generous even at lunch, when I couldn't finish all of my penne with ricotta, sausage and tomato. The cannolis are divine. —KM

Sensi (NOW CLOSED)

2222 E. Cary St., 648-3463

Sensi‘s rosemary-crusted leg of lamb with roasted shallot sauce and saba. James Dickinson photo

By now, most Italian-food enthusiasts are aware that the river district's Sensi is unparalleled locally for its blend of chic sophistication, top-notch service and scrumptious Italian fare-with-flair. What might be news to some, however, is just how many ways that winning combination can now be savored without breaking the bank. Price-conscious guests, for example, can receive a complimentary chef's course on Mondays or enjoy a $50 couple's date night on Tuesdays. Most tempting, though, may be the prix-fixe menu. Think lobster soup with crab, roasted leg of lamb risotto and hazelnut semifreddo, and you get the delicious $28 picture. —MG

Comfort

200 W. Broad St., 780-0004

This Broad Street staple has been a popular spot for lunch and dinner since it first opened, and with good reason. When you crave meatloaf, mashed potatoes, macaroni and cheese, fried catfish, or any other type of quintessential comfort food, this is the place to go. I especially love their vegetable dishes, including the roasted-beets-and-squash casserole. And don't miss the banana pudding. Partner and chef Jason Alley says Comfort has expanded its cocktail program to include 125 whiskies; pork belly and organ meats also are popping up on the menu. "We're doing things we like that gussy things up a bit without changing our concept," Alley says. —SE

Millie's Diner

2603 E. Main St., 643-5512

In the storied table-side jukeboxes at Millie's, Nina Simone and Johnny Cash share space with Elvis Costello, the Pixies and indie-rocker Dan Auerbach. You might find "Hound Dog" sung not by Elvis, but by Big Mama Thornton. The food is like that too: consistently well-executed favorites such as the signature omelets or Thai Spicy Shrimp mixed with pleasing surprises — variations on the steak preparation, or rockfish paired with sweet potatoes and a bacon, tomato and crab butter, for example — which may explain why Millie's has been a top Richmond spot for 20 years. Kevin Wilken, who last worked as executive chef at Julep's, stepped in as the new dinner chef about six months ago and has not disappointed Millie's ardent fan base. "People are just raving about his food," says co-owner Lisa Edwards. —Tina Eshleman

Edo's Squid

411 N. Harrison St., 864-5488

Most people have a restaurant or two that they head to whenever guests show up from out of town. Edo's Squid is that kind of place. Ordering the expertly fried calamari with marinara sauce for an appetizer is almost de rigueur. I also recommend the cooked-to-perfection chopped liver combined with hard-boiled eggs — the soft textures and creaminess cause a rush of knives to get the last bits. From the main menu, Edo's serves one of the best steaks in town, and the clams in white sauce are sublime — big, full clams tossed in spaghetti with olive oil, white wine and garlic. Of the many variations I have tried of this dish over the years, this is hands-down the best. —PJ

La Grotta

1218 E. Cary St., 644-2466

Step underground and this Northern Italian jewel greets you with fresh focaccia, infused olive oils, hand-pulled mozzarella, made-that-morning gnocchi, wild game, tiramisu three ways and perfectly firm risotto that only Sensi can match. Chef/owner Antonio Capece, the gourmand behind Amici, Pronto Pizza and Bistro 27, demonstrates his mastery with unfussy authenticity. Hit the multicourse tasting menu with a party of six and celebrate an out-of-town friend right in an inviting wrought-iron wine cellar. There's plenty in the $35 to $55 range, plus classic vintages of Amarone and Barolo, along with an impressive collection of dessert wines and Italian spirits. —JT

Bouchon (NOW BISTRO BOBETTE)

1209 E. Cary St., 225-9116

Bouchon's warm duck confit, mâche, warm apple, walnuts and curry mayonnaise. Adam Ewing photo

Who doesn't love a good bistro? In Lyon, France, they are called bouchons, hence the name of this new Shockoe Slip restaurant. As you'd expect, the food is decidedly French, moderately priced and backed up by an excellent wine list. The country pâté, served with the traditional tart cornichons, has just the right coarse, meaty texture, while the grilled artic char, enhanced with a delectable saffron sauce, all but melted in my mouth. Desserts vary daily, but if the elderflower crème brûlée is on the menu, don't miss it. Chef/owner Francis Devilliers and his wife, Wendy Kalif, are friendly hosts, and the interior is chic yet welcoming. —SE

Julep's New Southern Cuisine

1719-21 E. Franklin St., 377-3968

Six years in, Julep's is still at the fore of elegant comfort food. Deftly Southern with a global appeal, the house-made stocks, baked-daily breads and farm-to-table ingredients represent a true philosophy, not a nod to trends. With shrimp and grits and duck-confit spring rolls, the menu is simple but exciting, and the service is exquisite. The wine list is full of surprises, and the sexy environs beg for a hot second date or an intimate group of friends. —JT

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