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Photo courtesy of Colonial Williamsburg Foundation
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Photo courtesy of Colonial Williamsburg Foundation
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Photo by Paul Karns
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Photo courtesy Alewerks Brewing Co.
When something is right in your backyard, you sometimes forget what a destination it can be. I felt that way about Williamsburg when I made the quick jaunt down Interstate 64 for an afternoon with a friend. I’d forgotten that there are some real finds among the quaintness that make it a fun place to explore. In addition, with the Grand Illumination — a 70-year-old Colonial Williamsburg tradition, happening Dec. 7 — and other holiday events, this month is a good time to visit Virginia’s long-ago capital.
1.) Culture Fix
The last time I went to the Abby Aldrich Rockefeller Folk Art Museum several years ago, the museum was still in a small house off the Colonial Williamsburg property. I recall it seeming small and tired. That was then. In 2007, the museum was combined with the DeWitt Wallace Decorative Arts Museum in a bright, sprawling warren of galleries. For lovers of antique furniture and porcelain, the DeWitt collection offers ample eye candy. The layout is confusing at first, but after a trek through these galleries, you arrive at the folk art museum. Mrs. Rockefeller (who also co-founded the Museum of Modern Art in New York City) put together a remarkable collection of American folk art, from portraiture to figures and musical instruments. There is a great deal to be learned from this artwork, and the museum has done an excellent job with explanatory signs. Be sure to give yourself time to take it all in.
2.) Window Shopping
After the museum, we headed over to Merchants Square to grab a bite to eat and see what else had changed. There’s a quirky mix of touristy shops and high-end retail, with a Scottish boutique thrown in, should you need to update your tartan collection. Unfortunately, the excellent toy store that had once occupied a corner is no longer there. For dining options, you can choose between basic fare, bistros and high-end seafood, in addition to Williamsburg classics like The Cheese Shoppe and The Trellis. (Be prepared to see costumed actors among the shoppers.) On weekends in December, you can catch a free, 30-minute street-theater production of Master Thespian’s A Christmas Carol by the Virginia Theatre Machine, and the Williamsburg Christmas Parade takes place Dec. 6 from 8:30 to 11 a.m..
3.) Lunch Stop
We opted for the DoG Street Pub at the corner of West Duke of Gloucester and North Henry streets. Located in an 80-year-old former bank building, this gastropub offers a bright, inviting space with an excellent craft beer selection and a menu filled with a mix of pub classics and a few lighter vegetarian options. The Ploughman’s Lunch turned out to be a generous serving of greens, roasted beets, aged cheddar, apples, pâté and shaved country ham. The accompanying brown bread and chutney provided a delicious balance. At $12, it was a far better deal than I expected to find across the street from a major tourist attraction.
4.) Bargain Hunting
Heading west from downtown, you’ll find a dizzying collection of high-end bargains at the Williamsburg Premium Outlets. Spend a couple of hours shopping at stores such as Burberry, Tommy Hilfiger, Converse, J.Crew, DKNY, Under Armour and Kate Spade New York.
5.) Winding Down
After you’re done shopping, take a short drive to AleWerks Brewing Co., located in a nondescript industrial park nearby. As a co-founder of Ardent Craft Ales in Richmond, I’m always interested in checking out what other breweries have to offer. The inviting taproom opens at noon and offers a chance to sample the array of brewmaster Geoff Logan’s beers, including the Drake Tail IPA and supremely drinkable Shorty Time session IPA. We also tried a bottle of Lover’s Greed, a sour beer that was two years in the making. Tart, delicious and made to accompany food, it was well worth taking a couple of bottles home.
