Cape Hatteras Lighthouse at sunset (Photo courtesy Visit North Carolina)
With large stretches of pristine national seashore and a small-town village feel, Hatteras Island, North Carolina, provides a simple beach vacation far from the bustle and crowds of OBX destinations to the north.
A mecca for anglers, water-sports aficionados, and nature lovers alike, Hatteras Island is a quiet and unpretentious place where travelers can fall into a slower pace and a deep state of vacation relaxation. Seven villages comprise the island, from Rodanthe to the north (where you can see the house featured in the 2008 film “Nights in Rodanthe”) to Hatteras Village at the southern tip, with Avon, Waves, Salvo, Buxton and Frisco in between.
Getting There
The 2.8-mile, $254 million Marc Basnight Bridge opened in February, spanning Oregon Inlet and linking Hatteras Island to Bodie Island on Highway 12. The new bridge, which is designed to stand 100 years, replaces the Herbert C. Bonner Bridge, which was built in 1963.
The Beaches
I grew up on the crowded beaches of Maryland and Delaware, so my first trip to Hatteras Island was a revelation — where was everybody? You’ll find miles of undeveloped beach wilderness here, with endless expanses of sand dunes and sea oats. The Cape Hatteras National Seashore offers a few access ramps for pedestrians and four-wheel-drive vehicles (permit required). Keep in mind that along with no crowds, there are also no lifeguards on these beaches. The area is known for rip currents, and the surf can be rough. Know your limits and watch children closely.
Cape Hatteras Lighthouse
The iconic black-and-white-striped Cape Hatteras Lighthouse is a prime attraction. Built in 1870, it is the tallest brick lighthouse in North America, rising almost 200 feet to shine its beacon warning seafarers away from Diamond Shoals, a 12-mile-long sandbar where hundreds of ships have been lost. Now a part of the National Park Service, visitors can tour the site and climb the 257 steps to the lighthouse’s balcony, providing panoramic views of the island and a great workout.
Fun on the Water
Many anglers visit Hatteras Island in search of a big catch, whether they’re surf fishing from Cape Point at Cape Hatteras National Seashore, casting from the Avon Fishing Pier ($12 per day) or venturing out for a half or full day of deep-sea fishing on one of the many fishing charters that depart from the island’s marinas. Stop by the Red Drum Tackle Shop in Buxton for ice and fresh bait and to hear what’s biting, and where.
The island is also a popular destination for surfers and kiteboarders. Lessons are available through Kitty Hawk Kites in Rodanthe. The Pamlico Sound provides some gentler waters for those seeking the ideal place to kayak and paddleboard.
Pea Island National Wildlife Refuge (Photo courtesy Meredith Travel Marketing)
Back to Nature
Pea Island National Wildlife Refuge, a 13-mile stretch at the northern end of the island, is a stop for hundreds of migratory bird species traveling the Atlantic Flyway, making it a bird watchers' paradise. A visitors center offers restrooms, information and access to nature trails. Further south, Buxton Woods, with an easy access point just past the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse, offers miles of wooded trails to explore when you’ve had enough of the beach.
Dine
Visit the Hatteras Volunteer Fire Department on Saturday afternoons between Memorial Day and Labor Day for the weekly Hatteras Fish Fry, offering plates of fried fish, hush puppies and cole slaw. It’s a great way to experience local culture and contribute to a good cause — proceeds benefit local organizations.
Café Pamlico at the Inn on Pamlico Sound in Buxton offers casual fine dining with indoor and outdoor seating overlooking the water (reservations recommended). Buxton Munch is a casual lunch spot with excellent fish tacos, salads, burgers and more.
Sweet Things
The Orange Blossom Bakery & Café has been serving its signature Apple Uglies to Hatteras Islanders for more than 40 years. These huge apple fritters are studded with fruit and smothered in glazed sugar, and you can expect a line out the door nearly every morning as hungry vacationers queue up for a sugar fix. Order baked uglies if you’re feeling virtuous, or if you’re feeling especially decadent, get one that is chocolate-dipped. Breakfast sandwiches and burritos, doughnuts, and cinnamon rolls are also on the menu. Good thing calories don’t count on vacation.
Save the Dates
Sept. 13-14: Day at the Docks is an annual celebration of North Carolina watermen culture and history, held along the Hatteras Village waterfront. Festivities include Taste of North Carolina on Sept. 13 and a Blessing of the Fleet boat parade on Pamlico Sound on Sept. 14.
