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Those with great style have the ability to mix and not match; try out, let's say, pink python boots; and sometimes miss the mark. As Charlie Umhau, one of this year's standouts, says, "There are no mistakes in how we dress, as long as there's truth in what we're wearing, and we're allowing what we wear to express ourselves."
Our selection panel wanted to choose risk-takers, those who have a distinct point of view. We think they hit the mark with this Richmond dozen.
Panelists included Jenni Lee Crocker, new business director at Ernst & Young; Courtney Crane Dauer, R•Home contributor and stylist; Dr. Jill Bussey Harris, dentist; Brian McDaniel, founder of Dirty Richmond; Sarah Rowland, art director; Katie Ukrop, owner of Quirk Gallery; and Stacie Vanchieri, owner of Modelogic [Wilhemenia].
On Oct. 23 at 6 p.m., our RVA Statement Makers will be recognized at the Virginia Center for Architecture.
19th-Century Throwback
Charlie Umhau
As a drummer boy in a Civil War re-enactment group of Union soldiers, Charlie Umhau, 21, spent the weekends of his early adolescence on the battlefield, camping in the rain and marching in wool uniforms. "My family thought it was the weirdest thing ever," says the Washington, D.C., native, who describes himself as a "bona-fide eccentric with a sewing machine and a purveyor of romantic American notion." He plans to embark on a year-long performance piece at the beginning of October, adopting the full-time lifestyle of a 19th-century peddler and pulling a self-constructed Amish cart around Richmond from which he will sell his homespun shirts, neckties and patchwork American flags.
Who is your style inspiration?
"Young Walt Whitman, with a fusion of Lampião, the king of the Brazilian Cangaço bandits. His whole band of outlaws made their own clothes out of leather and embroidered flowers on all their hats."
What local stores do you frequent?
Black Swan Books: "They have tons of cool archival prints." And Bygones Vintage Clothing: "They let me go in and try on really old-timey jackets that I can use for design inspiration."
What fashion blogs, magazines or sites do you follow?
Rivet Head ( rivet-head.blogspot.com ), a menswear fashion blog from the 1920s to the '50s. "It's mostly badass men's work wear and motorcycle gang stuff and a lot of really cool patched denim."
What's your favorite time period for fashion?
The time period from the French Revolution in 1789 to the 1960s. "Even the garbage collectors of the 1940s had suits on. The tucked-in shirts of soldiers charging into battle in the Civil War and the red cockades of Bastille stormers has always been really appealing to me visually."
What's your favorite accessory?
His scissor holster made from old knife sheaths and a gun holster that he uses for his tailoring scissors.
What are your fashion faux pas?
"There are no mistakes in how we dress, as long as there's truth in what we're wearing, and we're allowing what we wear to express ourselves."
Who are your favorite designers?
"Just the clothing that people made for themselves throughout history — the homemade uniforms, the shirts that somebody's grandmother made for them, the patchwork overalls that farmers made. In that sense, the utilitarian, everyday designer." — Anne Dreyfuss
It's All in the Tailoring
Rita McClenny
As director of the Virginia Film Office, Rita McClenny considers the red carpet work. She has to make sure the stars are where they are supposed to be at certain times, while juggling two phones and a clipboard. So you won't find her in glittery platform heels or tight, mermaid-style gowns. However, she is elegant and classic in her dress, whether she's conducting meetings or sitting on the board of the Virginia Film Festival.
Who is your style inspiration?
Mom inspired me first. Her purse matches the shoes, which match the hat, which matches the gloves."
Which local stores do you frequent?
Orvis for Berber jackets, Levys and Saks Fifth Avenue. I don't do a lot of shopping. I have a lot of suits; I just take care of them."
Which shops outside of Richmond or online shops do you like to visit?
Online, I go to J. Crew. I love Nicole Miller. TSE Cashmere. For my equestrian clothing, I go to Myrna's Boots ‘n' Bits [in Richmond] and Blue Ridge Sports. Ron Donovan is my favorite shoe designer in New York. I have a pair of Ritas [which Donovan named for her]. They're made out of python, and they're red."
Which outfit do you always reach for?
"My uniform: a black or navy sheath and a string of pearls. A classic pump. I love turtlenecks."
Who are your favorite designers?
For shoes, Ron Donovan. For clothes, Nicole Miller and Calvin Klein. Also, two tailors: Nathan's, who are known for men, but they will tailor clothes for women, and Robert Surratt of Robert's Dream. He can reshape and transform any garment." ―Kate Andrews
Suited for Work or Play
Mark Fernandes
Mark Fernandes enjoys kicking back in a casual outfit during his off hours from Luck Companies, where he is chief leadership officer, but he was introduced to the world of high fashion several years ago at a worldwide stone show in Italy. Now he's a fan of the tailored suit (particularly Ermenegildo Zegna) and fitted shirts. "You start realizing how much what you wear says about you."
Who is your style inspiration?
"Probably Ralph Lauren and his whole genre and how he views the world."
Which local stores do you frequent?
"My one mainstay is Franco's."
Which shops outside of Richmond or online shops do you like to visit?
"In New York, the RRL store [owned by Ralph Lauren]. I'll visit a rugby store and True Religion for jeans. There's a store in SoHo called Mickey Drexler's Liquor Store. Drexler ran The Gap and now J. Crew. He sells a lot of vintage and vintage knockoffs at the liquor store. It's tiny ― you can't put three people in there."
Describe your style in 10 words or less.
"Understated, simple, timeless, a little bit of Americana/rugged, and fits well."
What's the outfit that you always reach for?
"Usually I'm gonna grab a pair of Frye boots, a wrinkled, distressed pair of khakis, and a really simple patterned shirt."
What's your favorite accessory?
"I'm really minimal on accessories, but I typically will have a cheap English steel watch on." ―KA
Big-Screen Presence
Steve Granger
Steve Granger got his first job as a paperboy so that he could spend his paycheck on clothes. "As a seventh-grader, I enjoyed the nicer things," he says. Granger remembers shopping at Eljo's Traditional Clothes in Charlottesville for $16 Weejuns penny loafers and a $5 Gant shirt. "That was really expensive for those two items," the 61-year-old Henrico native says. As the sales manager for Tom James Co., he still appreciates high-end fashion and tailored suits. "People say I cut grass in clothes better than their husbands wear to work."
Who is your style inspiration?
"The movie stars in the '40s. That classic, elegant look — Cary Grant, Fred Astaire, Bing Crosby."
Describe your style.
"Traditional with a flair. I'm a little brighter than a lot of men dress. I don't mind being seen. Typically men dress to fit in and women dress to stand out."
What's your favorite fashion time period?
"It was fun wearing the 4-inch platform shoes with bell-bottoms, but I would hope that would never come back. I do think the ‘40s and ‘50s had a very classic look."
Do you have a favorite accessory?
"French-cuff shirts, and I am a tie enthusiast. I think that is sometimes the centerpiece of what you wear. That's what people see. No matter what your suit is." —Anne Dreyfuss
Mom Knew Best
Vaughan C. Jones
Richmond defense attorney Vaughan C. Jones relies on research in the courtroom and also in fashion. "When I find myself at one of the stores, I always want to try something on that I've seen in a magazine," he says. Jones notes that his uniform for work is a suit, but that hardly means he has to look boring.
Who is your style inspiration?
"My mother, a displaced New Yorker in the South. She always had an impeccable appearance, and she encouraged me to always look my best."
What fashion faux pas have you committed?
"I've worn in public and still own a pair of leather pants. People who say I dress nice are quick to remind me of them. I don't know any man who should wear leather pants, except Prince."
Which local stores do you frequent?
"Locally, I'm a fan of Saks and Nordstrom. Having a great tailor is as important as picking great clothes. My tailor is Oksana Fashion Design. I won't wear anything until she takes a look at it."
Which shops outside of Richmond or online shops do you like to visit?
"My wife would confirm I'm a voracious shopper. When we went to Cannes, France, I took advantage of the Louis Vuitton shop there and Francesco Smalto, a haberdasher."
What's your favorite accessory?
"I wear a pair of Tiffany cuff links whenever I have a jury trial. My aunt gave them to me." —KA
Schooled in Style
Evangeline Poindexter
Evangeline Poindexter, known to friends as Vangie, loves to dress up, but she also is a third-grade teacher in Hanover County. In that job, there's "no way you can escape getting dirty," she jokes. "I like to be engaged with the children." However, as a member of the Richmond chapter of Links, a social organization that raises money for services to African-American women and youths, Poindexter gets to attend a biennial black-tie gala. Last time, she wore a Valentino gown. "I'm a sale queen, because I have expensive tastes," she says.
Who is your style inspiration?
"My father was always creatively dressed. One Christmas, he found these authentic jodhpurs, and they were lined with suede. He wore them with riding boots and a riding crop."
Which local stores do you frequent?
"My favorite, of course, in Richmond is Saks Fifth Avenue. Also, Nordstrom, Ann Taylor, BCBG and Anthropologie."
Describe your style in 10 words or less.
"Polished, sharp, creatively outside of the box. Unpretentious."
Which outfit do you always reach for?
"In the family of black, well-fitted to my body, well-tailored. Usually the safe black dress with heels, flats or boots."
What's your favorite accessory?
"I love hats. I love hats. Just any kind: winter hats, banded fedoras. Saks Fifth Avenue has the best hats in the world."
Who are your favorite designers?
"Oscar de la Renta, Valentino, Marc Jacobs, Carolina Herrera, Christian Dior, Gucci!" —KA
Bookmark on Fashion
Jill Stefanovich
Children's bookstore owner Jill Stefanovich cites Mary Blair, a concept artist behind Disney's Alice in Wonderland, Peter Pan and Cinderella, as an influence on her personal wardrobe. "I would hope that I could have the same kind of style that she illustrates in her characters," the mother of 8-year-old twin girls says. Stefanovich opened bbgb on the corner of Belmont and Kensington avenues in November 2010 with Jenesse Evertson. "She's a bit of my inspiration," Stefanovich says of her business partner and friend. "We have a similar perspective on style."
What local stores do you frequent?
"Roan and Pink."
What shops outside of Richmond or online do you like to visit?
"I go to New York every summer, and that's where I tend to do my seasonal shopping. I love 3.1 Phillip Lim, Rebecca Taylor and Vince."
Describe your style in 10 words or less.
"Modern classic with a twist."
Is there an outfit that you always reach for?
"I wear a lot of dresses and skirts, so typically it's a simple dress that I can just throw on. I just bought a new A Détacher dress in New York that is going to be my fall go-to."
What's your favorite fashion time period?
"I love the '50s. They were elegant and fresh and simple."
Do you have a favorite accessory?
A pair of studded diamond earrings her parents gave her when she was married.
Who are your favorite designers?
3.1 Phillip Lim and Stella McCartney. —AD
Denim Meets Milan
Hank Greenberg
Hank Greenberg's style is influenced through years of buying clothes at designer showrooms in New York, Milan and Paris for Roan, his women's clothing boutique in Carytown. "I appreciate the way the men in Milan approach fashion," Greenberg says, adding that he gives it an American twist by incorporating more denim into the simple, tailored look. The 47-year-old father of three coaches soccer with the Richmond Strikers and supports the Richmond-based nonprofit World Pediatric Project through an annual fashion show and charity auction. This year's show at the Science Museum on Nov. 9 will feature fashion designer Chris Benz.
Who is your style inspiration?
Brunello Cucinelli and Luciano Barbera.
What local stores do you frequent?
Need Supply Co. and Peter-Blair
What shops outside of Richmond or online shops do you like to visit?
Billy Reid in New York
What fashion blogs, magazines or sites do you follow?
The Sartorialist ( thesartorialist.com ) and Aureta's Blog ( aureta.typepad.com )
What's that one outfit that you always reach for?
"A Luciano Barbera gray blazer and a white shirt. Those two can go with almost anything and never feel too under- or overdressed."
What's your favorite accessory?
A brown vintage belt with grommets that he found in Milan
Who are your favorite designers?
Billy Reid, Brunello Cucinelli, John Varvatos —AD
Frizzle Dazzle
Rachel Albright
Strangers sometimes stop Rachel Albright in the streets of New York and San Francisco because they recognize her as a model for Need Supply Co.'s online shop. "The website's grown so much that people everywhere are looking at it," Albright says of the Carytown store where she works as a stylist, writer and model. The 26-year-old is also the creator of Academy Jewelry, her collection of handmade bracelets, earrings and necklaces that's sold at the Carytown boutique, at Anthropologie locations nationwide, at small shops in Brooklyn and online.
Who is your style inspiration?
"Ms. Frizzle from The Magic School Bus. She is so crazy. Someone recently called me that, and it was so dead on. I was wearing the weirdest totally crazy outfit. I love her attitude and spirit."
What shops outside of Richmond or online do you like to visit?
"Totokaelo in Seattle, Creatures of Comfort in New York and Mohawk General Store in Los Angeles."
What fashion blogs, magazines or sites do you follow?
"My favorite is Man Repeller [ manrepeller.com ], mostly just because she has such a great philosophy and attitude toward fashion. Her whole thing is that it's for women, and most of it is totally unflattering and not going to get you noticed by guys. I am totally on board with that."
Describe your style in 10 words or less.
"Weird pants, impractical shoes and messy hair."
What's the one outfit you always reach for?
"Jumpsuit. Always. I wear jumpsuits probably three or four days a week."
Wh at's your favorite fashion time period?
"The '70s for sure. A lot of times when I come home to my parent's house wearing something totally crazy, my mom always says to me, ‘I used to have something like that in the '70s.' She went to high school in the '70s, and I look just like old pictures of her, and I love it."
Who are your favorite designers?
Opening Ceremony, Ilana Kohn, Wood Wood. —AD
Saying Yes to the Dress
Jessica Andrews
Jessica Andrews rides a vintage-inspired, red-and-white scooter from her house in Oregon Hill to Blue Elephant, the upscale furniture consignment shop she manages on Strawberry Street in the Fan. "The city itself has a vintage feel to it," the 27-year-old Northern Virginia native says. Her preference for the full skirts and fitted tops of the 1950s mirrors the throwback elegance of her furniture store. "I really dislike wearing pants," Andrews says. "I'm always in skirts or dresses."
What local stores do you frequent?
Halcyon Vintage Clothing, Rumors Boutique, Bygones Vintage Clothing
What shops outside of Richmond or online shops do you like to visit?
Anthropologie
What fashion blogs, magazines or sites do you follow?
Dirty Richmond ( dirtyrichmond.tumblr.com )
Describe your style in 10 words or less.
"Feminine without being girly."
What's your favorite fashion time period?
"The 1950s. The silhouettes are really nice. It's kind of the last time people really thought about what they were wearing. As a collective, everybody looked put together."
What's your favorite accessory?
"Vintage hats. I have 20 different kinds of hats." —AD
World View
David Holland
David Holland left Richmond for 12 years to attend college in Massachusetts and then to live abroad in London and South Africa, where he pursued a career in consulting and also in arts nonprofits. He returned home two years ago and worked with Art 180 until recently taking a job at VCU's School of the Arts, where he is helping to raise the department's national profile.
Who is your style inspiration?
"I'd say Ozwald Boateng, a London-based fashion designer and Savile Row tailor with a contemporary design direction. I like the tailoring, his good use of color and sometimes not color — a monochromatic style. Very sharp. And very wearable. It's not too out there."
Which local stores do you frequent?
"I go to Banana Republic a lot, sometimes to Marshalls. I go to the Williamsburg outlets like Ralph Lauren, Burberry, H&M, Saks."
Which fashion blogs, magazines or websites do you follow?
"I look at The Sartorialist, which is like [street fashion on] Dirty Richmond, except around the world. Sometimes I look at Bag Snob. I look at GQ and Details. In the past, I've looked at Wallpaper."
What fashion faux pas have you committed?
"There's probably many. I did at one time have a pair of magenta python boots with a Cuban heel. I used to live in London, and there was a sale. The pink boots were the only ones in my size."
What's your favorite accessory?
"I'd say a man's bag, which is somewhat unusual for Richmond. All different styles, but totes especially. I never carry a briefcase." —KA
Historical References Intended
Neely Barnwell Dykshorn
Because she started out studying 18th-century French furniture and porcelain at Parsons The New School for Design in New York City before expanding her focus to fashion, Neely Barnwell Dykshorn is quite a history scholar. She appreciates little-known fashion pioneers who still exercise influence on the major designers of today, as well as styles from the outer fringe.
Dykshorn is a contributing editor at Architectural Digest, and she styles advertising and editorial shoots for clients including Virginia Living magazine. She lives in Church Hill with her husband and children, 11-year-old Ella and 5-year-old Hank.
Dykshorn worked with Frank Rizzo and Tim Gunn (of Project Runway) at Parsons, and she conducted research on designers who won CODY awards, the precursor to today's Council of Fashion Designers of America awards, which are considered a prestigious honor. Still, some of these designers are all but unknown today, including Adrian (born Adrian Adolph Greenberg), who created costumes for The Wizard of Oz (even the ruby slippers) and 1930's The Women, which starred Norma Shearer and Joan Crawford. Norman Norrell, "a razor-sharp pioneer of American fashion" according to Dykshorn, still echoes today in the work of Oscar de la Renta.
Dykshorn also sees historical context in Richmond fashion. "Pam Reynolds is the Millicent Rogers of today," she says, referring to the Standard Oil heiress who collected Southwestern turquoise jewelry and helped popularize it. Rogers also, like VMFA donor Reynolds, supported fine artists and fashion designers. Dykshorn styled a fashion shoot for Virginia Living magazine at Tuckahoe Plantation that featured socialite Tinsley Mortimer as Rogers, wearing Native American jewelry. The shoot was a marriage of historical detail and fashion, just the way Dykshorn likes it.
Who is your style inspiration?
"Panos Yiapanis, a stylist from Cyprus. He's neo-punk and goth. I just think he's pretty crazy-creative. Also, there's such an elegance to Richmond ladies. In church, beautifully turned out. Maybe they [and Yiapanis] hang out at lunch." [Laughs.] Dykshorn also mentioned her mother: "Her '70s ski chic is still an inspiration to me, and I have some of those great pieces."
Describe your style.
"Magpie. Beg, borrow, steal. I think I have about the tiniest closet in the world, ironically enough. What I do for work is shop all the time. I don't love to shop for myself."
Which outfit do you always reach for?
"I'd have to say my Lou Lou tuxedo striped pants [by Hudson]. First of all, because I love the reference to [Yves St. Laurent's] Le Smoking. Somebody told me, ‘You have Cool Hand Luke pants.' Han Solo pants, too."
What's your favorite fashion time period?
"Versailles is always the touchstone. Every age has had their Marie Antoinette on film. It doesn't mean I'm going to take to wearing [a gown] around the Fan. Also, the 1920s. I love seeing the reverberations of that. There's a tightness to that aesthetic — the super-sleek hair, the dark, tight beading. Coco Chanel came out of that era."
What's your favorite accessory?
"I have my grandmother's Gucci handbag, which I love because it was hers, but they also reissued it last year as the Boston bowling bag." —KA
