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Matthew Graham photos; rooms: photos courtesy Lansdowne Resort
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Bethany Emerson photos; bottom right: courtesy Keswick Hall
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Top: John Henley photo; bottom left: courtesy Frank Young; bottom right: James Cowan photo
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Steve Hedberg photos
In between all the eating and drinking that our travel writers did on your behalf, a good dose of blood pumping was mixed in. From riding horseback along a trail once followed by Thomas Jefferson to kayaking the Potomac and finishing at the Tarara Winery, these excursions made the overnights even sweeter — from the luxurious Keswick Hall right outside Charlottesville to the amenity-laden Landsdowne Resort in Loudoun County. Whether coasting down the Virginia Creeper Trail or watching cyclists whiz by on the Capital Bike Trail, our fall adventures provide the right recipe for weekends to remember. Happy trails.
A Potomac Wine-Tasting by Kayak | Luxe Relaxation Around Charlottesville
Outdoorsy Adventures in Abingdon | A Rural Retreat Just Outside Richmond
Shopping and Seafood in Virginia Beach
Wine While You Paddle
A Potomac tasting by kayak and canoe
Mike Dudash is exuberant to say the least. A river guide with the Maryland-based River and Trail Outfitters, he loves leading paddling trips, and he especially loves running the Paddle and Wine Tasting Tour on the Potomac River north of Leesburg. The trip begins in the parking area of Tarara Vineyard ( 703-771-7100 or tarara.com ). Dudash, a guide for nearly 25 years, gathers the diverse group of new and experienced paddlers in a circle. "Who's here to have fun today?" he asks. Everyone raises a hand. He continues, "And who's going to have the most fun?" While people ponder this question, Dudash grins and shouts, "I am."
Paddle
Dudash and his group of 17 paddlers board a bus for a 15-minute ride upstream from the vineyard. Depending on the river level and current, the tour travels either four and a half or seven miles down river. Due to a summer drought, today's trip will be the short one, starting near Point of Rocks, Md. At the boat landing, the bus is greeted by river guide Greg Ganjon and Dudash's 7-year-old son, Toy. Once again, Dudash asks everyone to form a circle. He explains how to use a kayak paddle, saying that the arm motion for paddling is like the stroke in swimming freestyle. The tour consists of a mix of canoes and tandem and single kayaks. For canoeing basics, Dudash turns the forum over to his son. The boy goes over the parts of the paddle and explains the forward stroke, the backstroke and how to use the paddle as a rudder. "Don't forget the draw stroke," Dudash adds. And Toy demonstrates steering the front of the canoe by drawing the paddle sideways.
Dudash and Ganjon assist the guests in boarding the various watercraft. With everyone settled, Dudash and his son lead the way down the river in a canoe, while Ganjon pulls up the rear of the group as the "sweep." The shallow water is crystal clear, and catfish and bass swim among rocks and river grass. Overhead, a red-tail hawk shrieks. A blue heron soars low across the river. Dudash points out other birds in the trees, among them a young bald eagle. He asks everyone to stop paddling and talking. Instead, he says, drift with your eyes closed for 60 seconds. The air is filled with the sounds of locusts and songbirds. After a minute, Dudash reminds the group that the Potomac River is a delicate ecosystem and the lifeblood of the nation's capital, providing drinking water to the city and to Northern Virginia.
After about two hours, the small flotilla beaches on an island for lunch. Ganjon hops into a bright yellow kayak to practice his paddle roll. He flips the boat upside down and rights it. However, without a spray skirt, water floods the cockpit, and the bow sinks. The boat comes to a dead stop at a 45-degree angle as the bow wedges into the riverbed. Ganjon is submerged up to his chest, and everyone laughs. Dudash asks, "Are you done playing with your yellow submarine?" Ganjon climbs out of the kayak and hauls it to shore, turning it upside down to drain out the water. The paddlers return to their respective boats and continue for another half hour to the take-out point at Tarara Vineyard.
Paddle and Wine Tour is scheduled for Oct. 10. Groups of 20 or more may book the tour on other dates upon request. The outfitters also offer a Paddle, Wine and Concert Tour ending with an outdoor concert at Tarara Winery . For more information, visit rivertrail.com or call 888-446-7529.
Taste
The trail from the river leads back to the parking area and then up to a private pavilion set up for the tasting. The 21-year-old award-winning winery is one of the oldest in the state and makes more than a dozen wines. This tasting includes six of its premier wines, first a barrel-fermented Chardonnay that's crisp and refreshing after hours of paddling. It's followed by a dry rosé and a series of reds. Though the paddlers tastes' are diverse, everyone agrees that the Chardonnay and the Reserve Merlot kick ass. Then the tasting moves onto the last of the reds, a blend called Long Bomb. Dudash, who also leads a paddle and beer trip, hopes to put together a paddle and tequila trip, and he asks if anyone is interested. Everyone raises a hand.
Stay
Lansdowne Resort ( 877-509-8400 or lansdowneresort.com ) combines the amenities of a full-service modern resort and hotel with the rural charm of a country inn. The spacious rooms in the 296-room hotel overlook 500 acres of rolling hills and quiet forests. You can play golf on the 45-hole course, swim in the aquatic center (with water slides, outdoor pools and an indoor pool) or de-stress with a deep-tissue or hot-stone massage at the 12,000-square-foot Spa Minerale.
Eat
Lansdowne's On the Potomac gourmet restaurant features dinners paired with private-label, custom blends of Tarara wines. The Lansdowne Reserve White complements the flavors of sea scallops and smoked spare ribs. The Reserve Red meshes perfectly with duck breast or filet mignon.
Don't Miss
Historic Leesburg ( leesburgva.org ) is one of those quintessential old towns with brick sidewalks and a mix of shops, galleries and restaurants in buildings dating to the Colonial period. —Matthew Graham
A Potomac Wine-Tasting by Kayak | Luxe Relaxation Around Charlottesville
Outdoorsy Adventures in Abingdon | A Rural Retreat Just Outside Richmond
Shopping and Seafood in Virginia Beach
Touch of Class
A weekend splurge in the Piedmont's hills
Thomas Jefferson may have been a tad biased when he described Charlottesville's natural beauty as "the Eden of the nation," but when autumn hits, I understand the attraction. So after a busy summer, my sister, Anna, and I headed into the Piedmont region for a weekend of rejuvenation.
Stay
Bunking at Keswick Hall ( 888-778-2565 or keswick.com ), a 1912 original homestead turned Italian-inspired resort in the 1990s, was a bit of a splurge (it's been voted one of the world's best places to stay by Condé Nast Traveler). The 48-room luxury inn sits on 600 lush acres. After checking into our balcony suite, Anna and I began with a high tea, followed by a croquet match on the lawn. Afterward, we enjoyed a platter of cheeses, sugared walnuts and local wine on our suite's private balcony, then we took a dip in the Horizon Pool, which is open year-round.
The water pours over the edge of the wall, providing a grand view of the Blue Ridge Mountains as we swam. When my sister pushed my head under water, I discovered the pool features piped-in underwater music, not audible from the surface. The air turned chilly, so we ended the afternoon in the Jacuzzi, which overlooks Keswick's 18-hole Arnold Palmer signature golf course.
Dine
That evening, we had a late dinner at Keswick's Fossett's Restaurant ( 434-979-3440 ) rather than venturing out. Our server explained that the menu reflects Jefferson's culinary inclinations, with four sections dedicated to his varying passions, which ranged from French cuisine to comfort food. I began my meal with the Virginia Crab Tasting, which included a delicate crabcake. My pork entrée was served on top of a yam purée and topped with rhubarb compote. Anna raved over the rack of lamb, crusted with fresh herbs and so tender that it pulled apart with a fork, and the Deconstructed Caesar Salad, which arrived with the dressing in a creamy bubble. When poked with a fork, it spilled over the bed of romaine. For dessert, our server suggested a sweet, floral wine to pair with my trio of peach dishes, including a flaky cobbler wrapped around chunks of fresh fruit.
Discover
We found our main adventure at Oakland Heights Farm ( 540-832-3350 or oaklandheights.us ), where we were to join a group trail ride on horseback. We missed a turn and arrived just as everyone was riding off into the distance. But owner David Lamb offered us a private trail ride, and it wasn't an hour-long jaunt through lovely woods with mountain views. He also told us the history of the trail, which includes a section of the path that Jefferson and James Madison took to and from each other's homes. He recounted humorous tales of his experiences leading trail rides for celebrities; Anna was elated that the horse she rode originally belonged to Bruce Springsteen, who is a client of David's. (Trail rides are offered seven days a week, $40 per hour, for ages 6 and up.)
Shop
A good bottle of wine is a must-have souvenir. In search of a wine I'd never tried, we navigated gravel roads to Virginia Wineworks ( 434-296-3438 or virginiawineworks.com ). Through October, the vineyard offers custom-crush services, in which customers create their own personalized wines. While custom-crush requires advance notice, the opportunity to taste 11 wines for $5 does not. I tried a half-dozen wines from co-owner Michael Shaps' label, and I tasted a variety of Virginia Wineworks wines, which are crafted from grapes left over from vineyards across the state. Before heading to the Downtown Mall, we stopped at Michie Tavern's newest shop, the Metal Smith Shop , an 18th-century cabin filled with handcrafted metalwork and crafts, including copper platters, robin's-egg blue antique enamelware, beeswax candles and kitchen accessories. Silver earrings crafted from antique spoon handles ($73 per pair) caught my eye. Once downtown, Anna and I browsed jewelry by Ananda Khalsa — one of my favorite designers — featured in the window of the fine jewelry shop Angelo ( 434-971-9256 or angelojewelry.com ). Khalsa creates miniature watercolor paintings of nature scenes and then incorporates them into necklaces and rings.
Don't Miss
The Keswick High Tea ( 434-979-3440 for reservations ), the perfect way to unwind, began with a glass of champagne, followed by eight types of scones and tea sandwiches. We sat on an oversized sofa in the lounge (part of the original 19th-century homestead), sipping loose-leaf black tea from individual sterling-silver pots. If weather permits, ask to snack on the terrace and make sure to try the Lapsang Souchong tea, a smoky but sweet brew. —Bethany Emerson
A Potomac Wine-Tasting by Kayak | Luxe Relaxation Around Charlottesville
Outdoorsy Adventures in Abingdon | A Rural Retreat Just Outside Richmond
Shopping and Seafood in Virginia Beach
Abingdon Trail Mix
Milling around in the southwest corner of Virginia
After navigating our way out of the high-speed traffic on I-81, my husband and I eased into a slower pace of life, as we pulled into the charming town of Abingdon, our home base for several days of outdoorsy adventures in Southwest Virginia. Here you should hike, bike or at least sit on a porch with a good view of the breathtaking scenery, since the Virginia Creeper and Appalachian trails and the Mt. Rogers National Scenic Recreation Area are all nearby. In town, you can find fine dining and a show at the famous Barter Theatre, which is within walking distance of a lovely place to stay, the Martha Washington Hotel. We let the 21st century zoom on by for a few days.
Stay
If you want to feel pampered, check in at the Martha Washington Hotel and Spa ( 276-628-3161 or marthawashingtoninn.com ), located in the heart of Abingdon's compact downtown. The Martha Washington — a private residence in 1832 and a finishing school, a Civil War hospital and a women's college in later years — is relaxing and refined, with a beautifully appointed porch, an indoor pool, and a lovely two-level flagstone-lined outdoor Jacuzzi alongside a fire pit. Soaking in small-town ambiance never felt so good. We added massages at "The Martha," as the locals call it, to work out the kinks from overdoing the hiking.
Dine
Eating well in Abingdon is as easy as rolling out of bed at The Martha and wandering into the dining room. The hotel serves a full breakfast of eggs and sausage, fresh fruit, biscuits, sweet breads and apple butter. Although well fortified for the trails, by the time we'd finished hiking, we were hungry enough for the Southern gourmet dinner menu at the hotel's dining room. A sumptuous but intimate setting, the dining room includes a gorgeous old bar with comfortable leather seating. On another night during our stay, we dined at The Tavern ( 276-628-1118 or abingdontavern.com ), in Abingdon's oldest building, which dates to 1779. Owned by a German, the restaurant offers food with an intercontinental flair unusual for this rustic spot. You can order schnitzel, spaetzle, rippchen, Chicken Saltimbocca and stuffed filet mignon Palermo-style.
Don't Miss
Getting away from the grind should include a trip to the picturesque White's Mill & Mercantile ( 276-628-2960 or whitesmill.org ). A working mill undergoing restoration, it's open Wednesday through Sunday (the mill is closed January and Febuary). Powered by water until 1989, the 1790s gristmill uses electricity to grind cornmeal, buckwheat flour and grits. The actual grinding, which makes quite a racket, usually goes on when the mill is closed to the public. But you might get lucky. Either way, you can tour the mill, see old and modern equipment, and buy gluten-free products milled there; other delectables and collectibles are available at the adjoining old-timey Mercantile.
Shop
The Gallery ( 276-628-3161, ext.159 or marthawashingtoninn.com/martha-washington-gallery ), is a recent addition to The Martha Washington that's tucked away on the hotel's lower level. The Gallery shows and sells artwork on canvas, glass, paper and wood, as well as blown-glass fine jewelry by regional artists. Along with traditional Appalachian landscapes, there are refreshingly contemporary works for sale at the shop. And you can find old, architecturally interesting photos of the hotel. The Gallery displays monthly changing exhibits in the Regional Art Exhibit Hall of the hotel.
Discover
The pace picked up considerably when we rode our mountain bikes along the Virginia Creeper Trail — a euphoria-producing trail that starts at Whitetop Station. You can bike the entire 34-mile trail by starting in Abingdon. But most folks use the town of Damascus as their launching point. Six hiking, biking and driving trails converge there and, as a result, it's full of bike-rental outfitters. We took a shuttle from Adventure Damascus ( 888-595-BIKE or adventuredamascus.com ) to the top of Whitetop Mountain near the North Carolina border and then biked to Damascus along a stunningly beautiful trail, banked by rhododendrons and tall trees. A logging train nicknamed the Virginia Creeper once chugged along this route. We careened downhill, following the rambling Laurel Creek as it tumbled down the mountain. With bridge crossings, waterfalls and scenic overlooks, it's a jaw-dropping ride that bikers of most any age can handle. —Maureen Egan
A Potomac Wine-Tasting by Kayak | Luxe Relaxation Around Charlottesville
Outdoorsy Adventures in Abingdon | A Rural Retreat Just Outside Richmond
Shopping and Seafood in Virginia Beach
Farm and Field
Rural charms just beyond the city
Food, farms and history are intrinsic to our neighbors to the east, Charles City County and New Kent County, both with plantations that date to the nation's earliest days. But a growing crop of new restaurants, farms and CSAs (community-supported agriculture) is raising the region's profile as a locavore's paradise. For a dedicated foodie, a quick trip provided insight into changes afoot on the city's outskirts.
Eat
Many of us would prefer our homegrown produce already prepared by seasoned chefs. Luckily, in our two neighboring counties, there are enjoyable new places to eat, including the Rose and Crown Restaurant ( 804-966-1325 or roseandcrownrestaurant.com ) in New Kent. Open for a year, it's well worth a visit. For lunch, I ordered the chef's Chesapeake Burger, described on the menu as Chef Jim's scallop mousse and lump crab cake served on a cornmeal-dusted Kaiser roll with seafood aïoli. The sweetness of the scallop mousse intensified the taste of the crab, and the combination was truly amazing. My meat-loving husband ordered the burger, which arrived tender and juicy. The chef uses as much local produce as possible, and the wine list features some of Virginia's better selections. But save room. The desserts are remarkable, and I couldn't resist the chocolate mousse. This place is chef-owned, and two owners were working the dining room. When I started oohing and aahing about lunch, one chef sent out a sampler of desserts that filled any space left in my stomach.
On the evening of our overnight stay, we had dinner at Charles City Tavern ( 804-829-5004 or charlescitytavern.com ) and were pleased to find an elegant new paint job and new owners, Michael and Cate Macknight, former owners of Café Lafayette in the Fan. A thorough renovation in 2007 highlights the old hardwood floors. Paintings by local artists complete the scene. From the nightly specials, I ordered grouper with crabmeat — and thoroughly enjoyed it — while Handsome chose the veal chop over the lobster risotto. Dessert was an exquisite crème brûlée. Quite often, this dish is compromised by egg whites or cheap vanilla. Not here. It had a perfect texture from using egg yolks and the proper cooking temperature. The vanilla flavor was clean and bright, and the sugar crust shattered with the tap of my spoon. The recent renovation makes this a must-stop in Charles City for lunch, dinner or brunch. Reservations are a good idea. This historic setting is enhanced by the fine food and professional service.
Taste
For those on the trail of grapes, the New Kent Winery ( 804-932-8240 or newkentwinery.com ) or newkentwinery.com) is a relatively new addition to the region. Opened in 2008, the winery's tasting room operates Tuesday through Sunday, and there are tours and a café by a little lake. Massive ancient beams and stone construction make this a handsome place for tasting some of the additions to the local wine scene. The winemaker works to maximize the local micro-climate. The Rosé Norton, a limited edition, is great for summer sipping, and the Vidal Blanc, crisp, dry and not too fruity, demonstrates the promise of its Virginia grape.
Stay
Even though New Kent and Charles City are a stone's throw from city limits, we found much to do amid lunch, wine tastings and visiting the historic plantations. An overnight stay seemed wise, and we discovered the Edgewood Plantation bed-and-breakfast ( 804-829-2962 or edgewoodplantation.com ), a magnificent Gothic Victorian on John Tyler Memorial Highway. Every room is decorated in exquisite detail. Period children's clothes adorn the bathroom wall, and every piece of furniture has a posey or statuette on it. Our hosts, Dot and Julian, even made our dinner reservations. There are welcoming grounds for strolling and an in-ground pool for summer evenings. As the building is said to be haunted, the hosts offer tours covering the spooky details, and the place has been featured on the cable TV show Ghost Hunters . The Capital Bike Trail passes by in front, and the hosts are welcoming to passing cyclists.
Don't Miss
Bees 'n Blossoms in Providence Forge ( 804-966-2317 or beesandblossoms.com ) produces 100 percent raw honey, creamed honey, herbal honeys, honey and wine jellies, honey mustards, soaps, and beeswax candles. Holly Fork Produce in Barhamsville ( 804-366-6349 ) has a pumpkin patch and a corn maze for the fall, while Barry's Berries and Jan's Jams in Providence Forge ( 804 966-7357 ) allows you to pick your own berries. —Hollister Lindley
Top left; John Henley photo; top right, bottom left: photos courtesy Virginia CVB; bottom right: courtesy The Lemon Cabana
A Potomac Wine-Tasting by Kayak | Luxe Relaxation Around Charlottesville
Outdoorsy Adventures in Abingdon | A Rural Retreat Just Outside Richmond
Shopping and Seafood in Virginia Beach
Beach Therapy
Strolling, shopping and seafood
In need of a girls' weekend that wouldn't break the bank, my best friend and I headed for Virginia Beach. For the ultimate in low stress, we planned to leave the car parked and stick to the beach area.
Shop
Wandering through the T-shirt and knick-knack shops along Atlantic Avenue is always fun, but as serious shoppers, we ventured down Laskin Road. The Lemon Cabana (757-417-7375 or thelemoncabana.com ) carries a modern selection of jewelry, candles and accessories. Although there are beautiful décor items for any home, the well-edited selection of nautical décor made me want to buy a beach house just to decorate it. In the shop next door, Ragged Robin Gifts (757-428-1831 or raggedrobingiftshop.com ) , I loved the preppy selection of floral insulated bags, cute stationery and elegant serving ware. And Jody's Gourmet Popcorn (757-425-5639 or jodyspopcorn.com ) is a must-stop for caramel, cheesy ranch or cinnamon toast popcorn.
Eat
Virginia Beach is packed with breakfast spots that make getting up early worth it. Doc
Taylor's (757-425-1960 or doctaylors.com ) serves casual food in a homey environment. I couldn't get enough of "The Ray Ray," fried egg, bacon, cheese and grilled Parmesan tomatoes served on an onion roll with homemade hash browns on the side. For dinner, we bypassed the all-you-can-eat buffets and headed for Pelon's Baja Grill (757-417-3970 or pelonsbajagrill.com ) , where we filled up on tortilla chips, freshly made guacamole, flavor-packed fish tacos and delicious margaritas. Fans of spicy must try the house-made hot sauces. Those looking for traditional seafood may want to tackle the Killer Combo at Harpoon Larry's (757-422-6000 or harpoonlarryskillerseafood.com ) . Four oysters, four clams, four crawfish, six mussels, a quarter pound of shrimp and a half pound of snow crab legs goes down well with a Corona in this quirky, beachy bar. Make sure you challenge your dining companions to a game of foosball while you wait for your food.
Fun
Fall may not be prime beach time, but there's more to do at the ocean than get a tan. If you go during the weekend of Oct. 16-17, hit the Virginia Beach Craft Beer Festival (757-491-7866 or beachstreetusa.com/events/craftbeer ) from 1 to 6 p.m. each day in 24th Street Park. Your ticket ($20 in advance, $25 at the door) gets you unlimited tastes of more than 50 beers from more than 25 microbreweries.
After a day wandering the beach, my gal pal and I wanted to get dolled up, so we headed to Catch 31 (757-213-3472 or 31ocean.com ) . This oceanfront bar/restaurant is the place to see and be seen no matter the season; its chic interior feaures firepits on the patio to keep you warm on cool fall evenings.
Stay
In order to conserve our funds for shopping and dining, we stayed at the Best Western Oceanfront Virginia Beach (757-428-5370 or bestwesternoceanfront.com ) , which is centrally located and has an incredibly friendly staff. For luxury, try the Hilton Virginia Beach Oceanfront (757-213-3000 or hiltonvb.com ) , which offers sweeping views of the ocean and award-winning restaurants.
Pit Stop
One of my favorite things about heading to Virginia Beach is stopping along the way. You can check out the BCBG outlet at Prime Outlets Williamsburg (757-565-0702 or primeoutlets.com/locations/williamsburg.aspx ) , or you can take a respite from the road with a cheese plate and a bottle of John Adlum Chardonnay on the scenic patio at Gabriel Archer Tavern, the restaurant at the Williamsburg Winery (757-229-0999 or williamsburgwinery.com ). My must-stop on the way home is right-off-the-highway Willie's BBQ (804-932-9333) in Quinton for mouthwatering pulled pork, mac and cheese, and limeade.
Don't Miss
The mojitos and Puerto Rican/Cuban fusion fare at the appropriately named Mojito Café (757-233-6855 or mojitocafevab.com ) can't be beat. My mojito was made to order with a minty, just-right flavor. After cheese-olive empanadas and crisp tostones, we were transported to culinary heaven. —Megan Marconyak
