If you're not careful, the holidays can propel you right into a sugar-induced coma. And that's not necessarily a bad thing — the key is to make those sweet treats worth your while.
We asked Carly Herring, chef and co-owner of The Empress on Broad Street, to show us how to make some of her favorites. The former executive pastry chef at the now-closed Verbena, Herring has been cooking for most of her life. She came to Richmond from Hampton to attend VCU but discovered college wasn't for her. "During that time, I was working in restaurants, and decided I liked that better." Herring enrolled in J. Sargeant Reynolds' culinary arts associate of applied science degree program. To fill in some free time, she decided to take pastry classes, too.
"I think that's where I developed my affinity for sweet and savory. I was always going between the two while I was in school," she says. She came out of the program ready to cook, and over the years she's done stints in the kitchens of the Berkeley Hotel and Europa, as well as Verbena. Herring opened The Empress, along with partner Melissa Barlow, a year and a half ago.
Baking, according to Herring, is more like chemistry: "I'm big on science." You need to measure precisely and use the ingredients that are listed in the recipe. All-purpose flour has a different protein content than bread flour, for instance, and you won't get the same results if you substitute one for the other.
Weighing things like flour and sugar, as opposed to measuring them with a measuring cup, is also crucial. "In Virginia," she says, "two cups of flour could weigh anything, depending on the weather." Humidity can dramatically increase the weight of flour and throw off your recipe, according to Herring. You're safer with a scale.
But don't be afraid to make Herring's muffins, cookies and cheesecake if that new kitchen scale you want is going to be under the tree instead of being on the counter right now when you need it. We've listed both the dry measure and the weight of ingredients in the following recipes.
Sweet Potato Muffins
Makes 12
Ingredients
- 1 stick (8 ounces) unsalted butter
- 1/2 cup (6 ounces) brown sugar, packed
- 2 eggs
- 1/4 cup molasses
- 1/4 cup honey
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
- 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
- 1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
- 1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
- 1 1/2 teaspoons baking soda
- 3 1/2 cups (1 pound) bread flour, dip- and-scoop method (see p. 61*)
- 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
- 1/2 cup milk
- 1/4 cup sour cream
- 3/4 cup mashed, cooked sweet potato (or canned pumpkin)
Directions
Preheat oven to 400 F.
With a mixer, cream the butter and brown sugar together until light and fluffy. In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs, molasses and honey. Add the egg mixture to the butter mixture and beat until combined.
Sift together the dry ingredients. In another bowl, whisk the vanilla, milk, sour cream and sweet potato together. Then, with the mixer on low, alternately add the dry ingredients and the wet ingredients. Mix until just combined.
Spray two muffin tins with nonstick spray, and scoop 1/4 cup of the batter into half of the cups (only fill every other cup, so that the tops don't stick together when they rise). Bake for 35 minutes.
Spritz Cookies
Makes 6 dozen
Ingredients
- 1 1/2 cups (12 ounces) unsalted butter, softened
- 1 cup (5 ounces) powdered sugar, dip-and-scoop method (see p. 61*)
- 3 egg yolks
- 1 teaspoon almond extract
- 3 cups (14 ounces) bread flour, dip-and-scoop method (see p. 61*)
- Raspberry jam
Directions
Preheat oven to 375 F.
Cream the butter and sugar in a mixer on high speed until smooth, 1 to 2 minutes. With the mixer on low, add the yolks one at a time. Add the extract, and then slowly add the flour. Mix until just combined.
Scoop the batter into a pastry (or Ziploc) bag fitted with a large star tip. Pipe the batter into a figure-eight shape (an "s" shape with the ends touching the middle). With a wet fingertip, make a dent in the nook of each end. Fill the dent with jam.
Bake for about 15 minutes, until lightly browned around the edges.
Gingerbread Cookies
Makes approx. 2 dozen
Ingredients
- 6 tablespoons (3 ounces) unsalted butter
- 3/4 cup (7 ounces) sugar
- 1 egg
- 1/2 cup molasses
- 1 tablespoon baking soda
- 2 cups (9 ounces) bread flour, dip-and-scoop method (see p. 61*)
- 1 1/4 teaspoon ground ginger
- 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
- 1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
Directions
Preheat oven to 375 degrees.
Cream the butter and sugar in a mixer on high speed for 2 to 3 minutes. Reduce the speed to low, and then add the egg and molasses.
In another bowl, sift together the dry ingredients and, a little at a time, add to the butter mixture.
Mix until just combined. Scoop a tablespoon full of dough, roll it into a ball and flatten slightly. Repeat until all of the dough is used up. Refrigerate until firm (or freeze the dough for fresh cookies whenever you like). Bake for 10 minutes, until flattened and the tops are crackly looking.
Whiskey Pecan Pie
Serves 8
Ingredients
- 4 eggs
- 3/4 cup (6 1/2 ounces) brown sugar, packed
- 1/3 cup (3 ounces) rice syrup
- 1/3 cup molasses
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
- 1/4 cup whiskey
- 3 tablespoons (1 1/2 ounces) butter, melted
- 1 1/2-1 1/2 cup (10 ounces) pecans, partially crushed
Directions
Preheat oven to 350 F.
Whisk all of the ingredients together, and pour into a prepared 9-inch pie shell (recipe follows). Bake for 30 to 40 minutes, until the middle is no longer wiggly, the pie looks puffed and the edges are starting to firm.
For the pie crust:
Ingredients
- 3 1/2 cups (1 pound) all-purpose flour, dip-and-scoop (see p. 61*)
- 1 stick (1/4 pound) butter, softened
- 1/4 cup (2 ounces) sugar
- 1/2 to 3/4 cup (4 to 6 ounces) ice water
Directions
Combine the flour, butter and sugar, and mix well. Add ice water (start with the lowest amount and add more by tablespoonfuls, if needed) until a sticky, floury ball of dough forms. Let rest about 10 minutes.
Turn dough out onto a well-floured counter and sprinkle with flour. Roll flat, turning frequently to maintain the shape. Add flour as needed, and when it starts to get rubbery (roll it out and you'll see it spring or pull back), put a towel over it and let it rest for 5 minutes.
Line a 9-inch pie pan with the dough, cutting off the extra. Crimp the edges.
Peppermint Cheescake
Serves 8
Ingredients
For the filling:
- 2 packages (1 pound) cream cheese, left at room temperature until very soft
- 1 cup (8 ounces) sour cream
- 1 cup (4 ounces) powdered sugar
- 4 teaspoons cornstarch
- 1 egg
- 4 egg yolks
- 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
- 1/4 to 1/2 cup crushed candy canes or peppermint candies
For the graham cracker crust:
- 1/2 cup graham cracker crumbs
- 1/4 cup (2 ounces) sugar
- 2 tablespoons (1 ounce) butter
Directions
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Beat the cream cheese and sour cream with the powdered sugar and cornstarch until very smooth. In a mixer, add the egg, egg yolks and vanilla. Mix on medium speed for 2 to 3 minutes. Add to cream cheese mixture and stir in the candy pieces.
Line an 8-inch springform or cake pan with plastic wrap.
Combine the crust ingredients and pack tightly into the bottom of the prepared pan. Pour the cheese mixture on top. Tap lightly to remove any air bubbles.
Place the cake pan in a water bath (add one inch of hot water to another, larger pan, and place the cheesecake pan in that). Cover the entire pan with foil, leaving a corner open to vent. Bake for 1 to 1 1/2 hours, until the middle is no longer wiggly. Remove carefully from the oven and allow to cool, still covered, until the water is room temperature. Place the cake uncovered in the refrigerator until cool and set. Once the cake is completely cooled, it can be removed from the pan (undo the spring and lift the plastic at the edges) or covered and stored until ready to serve.
