Tickets for seated events are sold by the participating restaurants.
When David Hunsaker and his wife, Barbara, get on the subject of tomatoes, you’d better get comfortable, especially if they’ve enjoyed a glass or two of sparkling rosé. Known locally as the tomato king and queen, the vivacious duo and enthusiastic leaders of Village Garden farm over 300 varieties of the fruit on their small farm in Hanover that boasts a tomato-friendly terroir — a trifecta of clay, dirt and sand.
For the past two years, the couple, along with enthusiastic oenophile and sommelier Jason Tesauro of Barboursville Vineyards, have been calling upon top chefs and food and beverage professionals across the state to elevate the humble tomato through the Summer Supper Somm dinner series. And in 2023, the ambitious ambassadors of the commonwealth’s bounty are back at it for a third go-round.
“It’s a good time and great food, it’s a different interaction, a little bit of a different experience, and that’s exactly what we’re striving for,” David says with a wide smile.
The tomato showcase held its first service of the year on June 26 at Shagbark and concludes on Aug. 13 at Zoe’s Steak & Seafood in Virginia Beach. Other events in the series include an Indian brunch at Lehja in Short Pump, a dinner at pioneering Parisian instiution L’Auberge Chez Francois in Northern Virginia, a Church Hill tomato crawl, a walk-around tasting soiree at Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden and backyard party on the Hunsaker farm, in addition to many other juicy destinations in between. Each dinner includes pairings with wines from Barboursville.
The series has been garnering a fan base of returning guests — much like concertgoers who get hooked and hop on tour to see their favorite musicians — and participating restaurants. Tesauro notes that about one out of every four diners is a repeat attendee, food fanatics who get giddy over the varied and versatile produce just as much as the chefs who are uncovering its potential.
Tomatoes from Village Garden
And while the founders of Summer Supper Somm have a fervent dedication to and reverence for the fruit behind their series, that deep-seeded admiration is simply part of the event’s enticing nature, and its exploration of tomatoes’ rustic roots and endless possibilities.
When asked how they’ll keep things fresh and interesting during this year’s events, Barbara, who has a soft spot for a ribbed Tlacolula pink, replies without pause, “I think the tomato does that for us.”
While adhering to the series’ laid-back flair and “not too many guard rails” mantra, David says that with this third iteration, they’ve learned that communal dining works best, and staggered seating not so much. This year, participating chefs are also encouraged to dig a little deeper, cracking open cookbooks of the past to gain inspiration for dishes that are historically inspired.
“The first ketchup, the first tomato gravy, the first tomato aspic, all of these things have history,” he says.
Newcomers on the bill for the nearly summerlong ode to tomatoes include 21 Spoons in Midlothian, Magnolias at The Mill in Purcellville, Michelin-starred Marcel’s by Robert Wiedmaier in Washington D.C., Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden, Acacia Midtown and Yellow Umbrella Provisions. During the Church Hill Tomato Crawl, Sub Rosa Bakery, 8 1/2 and Cobra Burger will feature tomato-centric specials on their menu.
“During this series, there will be an opportunity for people to have the light come on about what’s available in their own neighborhood and out their back door,” Tesauro says. “These are tomatoes from where we live, this is wine that’s grown a cork’s throw from where you’re building your life right now. Connecting those dots has a transportive effect.”
Beneficiaries of the event are The Holli Fund and SCAN. For more information on the series and the full list of events, visit instagram.com/summersuppersomm.
