Graham crackers make a great no-fuss crust, as in this key lime pie from Poor Georgie's Bake Shoppe. (Photo by Justin Chesney)
Flaky and buttery, pastry shells are the perfect vehicle for a rainbow of flavors. Fruit pies use seasonal ingredients such as a glut of cherries, cream pies offer a cool treat on hot days, and savory selections are ideal picnic companions. We checked in with local bakers and asked them to divulge their favorite fillings and best pie practices.
What’s Inside Counts
Key Lime: For Poor Georgie’s Bake Shoppe owner George McDowell, there’s nothing better than a slice of key lime pie. “That sweet pucker power makes every messy part of your life go away ... temporarily, of course,” he says.
Savory: Alewife pastry chef Amanda Sanders roots for Team Savory, and her No. 1 choice is a beef and potato hand pie with flaky fried dough and a high crust-to-filling ratio.
Tropical: A pecan pie on a tropical vacation, the Jamaican fruit pie at Burnette’s Baked Goods joins pineapple, coconut and nuts harmoniously, making this a favorite of owner Michael Burnette.
Sweet Potato: Formerly of Mahogany Sweets, baker Shola Walker believes a classic sweet potato pie delivers “sweet, thick, smooth, warming spices and a crispy crust — that’s Southern,” she says.
Illustration by Molly Reeder
Baking Aces
Food illustrator and baker Molly Reeder says, “Laminate your cold pie dough.” She rolls out refrigerated dough and folds it to form an envelope before rolling it out again. Afterward, Reeder rests the dough in the fridge, creating a croissant-style crust.
Laura Boehmer of Petersburg’s Buttermilk Bake Shop recommends replacing some of the water in your pie dough with vodka: “The alcohol helps the gluten from getting overworked — it evaporates quickly and yields a tender, flaky crust.”
Proper Pie Co. dough maestros Nikki Price and Neil Smith offer an ingenious solution for blind baking: “A good substitute for expensive ceramic pie weights are dried chickpeas in a coffee filter.”
Squash Custard Pie
By Jenny Tremblay West, instructor at Mise en Place
Summer squash is one of the season's most bountiful produce items, and Mise en Place cooking school instructor Jenny Tremblay West believes pies are one of the best ways to celebrate them. Whether using West’s recipe for flaky pie crust or an unbaked shell from the store, transform a market haul of squash into a shareable spin on lunch or dinner that serves eight.
Pastry Dough
Makes one 9-inch round
1 cup plus 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 stick (4 ounces) unsalted butter, in cold 1/2-inch pieces
1 large egg, cold and lightly mixed
In a medium bowl, mix the flour, baking powder and salt. Toss the butter with the dry ingredients, using a pastry blender or your hands to cut in the butter until left with 1/4-inch crumbs. When using your hands, be mindful not to warm the butter, so move quickly, pressing and tossing the butter. Add the egg and fold in with a spatula until all the flour is moistened. Press into a ball and flatten, then cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate for 45 minutes or until firm. Remove from the fridge about 15 minutes before using.
Pie
1 unbaked pie shell or pastry dough from above
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 large shallots, diced (1 cup)
2 pounds small summer squash, cut into 1/2-inch slices (6 cups)
1 teaspoon fresh thyme
3 tablespoons cold butter
1/2 teaspoon apple cider vinegar
1/2 cup heavy cream
3 eggs
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1/4 cup honey
Salt and pepper
Directions
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Heat a large deep skillet over medium heat, melt butter and add shallots. Cook for 5 minutes, stir often, add a pinch of salt to season. Add squash and thyme, cook for a few minutes then add 2 tablespoons of water, cover with lid and cook until softened, stir often, about 12 minutes. Remove from heat and allow to cool partially, scrape mixture into a food processor or blender. Add cold butter and vinegar, process until smooth. Taste mixture, adding a pinch of salt if needed. If the mixture is still hot set aside until cool.
Mix the cream, eggs, cornstarch and honey with a pinch of salt in a medium bowl. Add squash mixture to the custard mix and thoroughly combine. Pour into the pie shell and bake in the lower part of the oven at 400 for 10 minutes then lower the heat to 350 and continue cooking for 40 minutes or until the center is just set but still glossy. Cool completely before serving.
