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SUMMER SQUASH
Zucchini’s mild flavor and unremarkable texture conspire to keep the Cucurbita off most lists of best-loved summer produce, but for its versatility, affordability and abundance, zucchini provides plenty to love.
BUYING AND COOKING
Look for zucchinis that are firm and feel heavy. Small zucchinis are sweeter, while bigger ones tend to have a bitter flavor. The freshest zucchini may have blossoms still attached. Zucchini may be served raw, usually shaved in a salad, but it’s more commonly served prepared; it absorbs marinades particularly well and has a texture great for frying, stuffing and baking. Then there are zoodles, those spiralized zucchini noodles that mimic spaghetti remarkably well when topped with marinara sauce and a sprinkle of parm.
AROUND RVA
Pinky’s: Fried zucchini gets fired up with Calabrian chiles, Aleppo pepper and pepperoncini, served with a cooling lemon-dill aioli.
Pupuseria El Salvadoreno: A steal at $2.25 each, griddled pupusas are stuffed with melty cheese and sauteed zucchini.
Stella’s: Greek zucchini fritters, called kolokithokeftedes, and fried potatoes are piled up on a grilled pita, topped with tomato, cucumber and tzatziki.
Amy Hicks (Photo courtesy Amy’s Garden)
LOCAL FLAVOR
At Amy’s Garden, founder Amy Hicks grows about 7,000 pounds of zucchini each year — both the slender, dark green squash and the Kousa, aka Mediterranean or Mexican zucchini, which is denser and nuttier and perfect for grilling, stuffing or baking. Hicks also loves cooking with zucchini blossoms. “Chopped and topping a salad, soup or pasta, folded into your quesadilla, the beautiful golden blooms make any dish look elegant easily.”
RECIPE
Lamb-stuffed Kousa With Garlic Yogurt Sauce
By Stephanie Ganz
This is a traditional Lebanese dish known as Kousa Mashi. It’s a bit of a time commitment and a labor of love, but the savory lamb- and rice-stuffed squash in a fragrant tomato broth is well worth the effort, making this a great dish to make in advance and impress your guests with.
Garlic Yogurt Sauce
1 cup full-fat yogurt (not Greek)
2 cloves garlic
1 teaspoon lemon juice
Mince and smash two cloves of garlic until you have a paste. Combine with yogurt and lemon juice and stir well. Refrigerate until needed.
Stuffed Kousa
1 small yellow onion
2 cloves garlic
1 tablespoon olive oil
8 Kousa squash
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 pound ground lamb
1/4 cup pine nuts, lightly toasted
1 cup long-grain white rice
Dice onion and mince garlic. In a small saute pan, heat olive oil over medium heat. Saute onion and garlic until fragrant and translucent, about four minutes. Remove from heat.
Wash Kousa and trim the ends, leaving the squash intact. Use an apple corer to remove the seeds and flesh from the inside (save this and use it for baba ganouj or zucchini bread), leaving a 1/2-inch perimeter of zucchini flesh.
In a mixing bowl, combine sauteed onion and garlic, spices, lamb, pine nuts and rice. Stuff squash with filling and set aside.
Tomato Broth
1 tablespoon olive oil
4 cloves garlic
1 cup tomato paste
8 cups chicken stock
2 bay leaves
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
Mince and smash garlic until you have a paste. In a Dutch oven, heat olive oil over medium heat. Saute garlic in oil until fragrant, about one minute, being careful not to burn. Add tomato paste and chicken stock and stir to combine. Add bay leaves and season with salt and pepper. Carefully arrange stuffed Kousa in the tomato broth and top with a plate to submerge. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and cook, covered, for 45 minutes. Remove the lid and cook for an additional 30-45 minutes, until the squash is tender all the way through. Serve warm with tomato broth, fresh herbs (chopped parsley and mint) and yogurt sauce on the side.
