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SHRIMP BASICS
Buying: Shrimp can be found in many forms, including head-on, shell-on, shell-less, fresh or frozen. They are measured by how many make up a pound, ranging from the super colossal 8-12 count to the very small 71-90s. For the cleanest, purest flavor, look for wild-caught shrimp, though sustainably farmed shrimp can be a good option, too.
Cooking: To clean shrimp, cut up from the back of the shell toward the tail using small kitchen shears. Next, devein the shrimp and determine whether to remove the shells or leave them on for cooking. From there, the choices, as Bubba from “Forrest Gump” famously declared, are nearly limitless.
AROUND RVA
Croaker’s Spot: Buffalo wings are great, but Croaker’s Spot makes a strong argument that Buffalo shrimp are even better, as an app or as the star of their Buffalo shrimp salad.
Restaurant Adarra: Plump, head-on shrimp swim in garlic and oil in the tapas classic shrimp al ajillo, which requires copious amounts of bread for soaking up every drop of sauce.
Shagbark: An excellent specimen in the land of shrimp and grits, Walter Bundy serves his version with Byrd Mill stone-ground grits, crispy hominy, and a bright saffron and tomato sauce.
Matthew Brusca, sous chef at Alewife (Photo courtesy Alewife)
LOCAL FLAVOR
“Working in a seafood-forward restaurant, we deal with shrimp a lot, using different sizes for different presentations, whether it’s Buffalo rock shrimp with hot sauce we make in-house, shrimp katsu sandwiches or something lighter like ceviche. We utilize all parts of the shrimp: Heads and shells make great dashi or bisque for noodles or pasta. I tend to pair shrimp with citrus, chiles and lots of fresh herbs while keeping it the star of the dish.”
—Matthew Brusca, sous chef at Alewife
RECIPE
Pickled Shrimp
By Stephanie Ganz
Perfect for picnics and potlucks, pickled shrimp is a tangy, zippy way to preserve fresh wild-caught shrimp at their peak. The capers, garlic and lemon in this recipe are reminiscent of shrimp scampi but in a bright, acidic format. Serve with buttered saltines and a dash of hot sauce.
1 cup apple cider vinegar
4 cloves garlic, smashed
1/2 teaspoon granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon coriander seeds
1/2 teaspoon mustard seeds
1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 teaspoon celery seeds
1 bay leaf
1/4 cup capers with brine
2 stalks celery, thinly sliced
1/2 red onion, thinly sliced
1/2 lemon, thinly sliced
2 pounds (21-25) shrimp, peeled and cooked
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Chopped fresh dill and parsley, to garnish
Combine vinegar, garlic, sugar, salt, coriander seeds, mustard seeds, black peppercorns, celery seeds and bay leaf in a small saucepan and heat over medium-high heat just until the mixture comes to a boil.
In a mixing bowl, combine capers, celery, red onion, lemon and shrimp. Cover with vinegar mixture and olive oil, then cover and refrigerate for at least four hours and up to 48 hours, stirring occasionally. To serve, garnish with dill and parsley. Serve chilled.
