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OYSTER BASICS
Buying: Don’t worry about purchasing oysters in a month that doesn’t include the letter “r” — oyster farming has rendered that folklore obsolete. Instead, look for clean, tightly closed shells free of chips or cracks.
Cooking: The first step to oyster mastery is the shuck. Whether you pursue from the lip or the hinge, make sure to protect your hands and use finesse rather than brute force.
PEARLS OF WISDOM
Virginia is home to some of the world's finest oysters, with eight distinct regions. Just as grapes take on the unique terroir of the soil, oysters embody the characteristics of the water where they’re farmed in what’s known as merroir.
AROUND RVA
The Roosevelt: The delicate, crispy buttermilk fried oysters are served with a Hoppin’ John salad featuring Carolina Gold rice and black-eyed peas.
Rappahannock: The soul-nourishing bourride features a broth that’s brimming with plump Barcat oysters, fennel and a poached egg.
East Coast Provisions: Boasting an ample selection of bivalves on the half shell, don’t miss the grilled oysters here, which are imbued with a pleasant smokiness.
“You can really change the overall flavor of a dish depending on the salinity of the oyster.” —Greg Haley, executive chef of Amuse
COOK LIKE A LOCAL
Oyster Stew
By Greg Haley, executive chef of Amuse Restaurant inside the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts
With flavor profiles that range from rich and buttery to bright with assertive salinity, oysters only require a brief time on the heat once freed from their shells, whether they’re being employed in a fry or a stew. To avoid becoming chewy, less is more, and this principle is in full effect for Chef Greg Haley’s oyster stew.
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 shallots, minced
2 stalks celery, finely diced
3-4 dashes of Worcestershire sauce
3-4 dashes of Tabasco
3 cups heavy cream
3 cups whole milk
3 tablespoons butter
1 pint shucked oysters, strained and oyster liquor reserved
1 bunch chopped flat-leaf parsley
Salt and pepper
Optional garnish: sherry and paprika, to taste
Melt butter in a small pot and saute garlic, shallots and celery for two to three minutes until translucent. Add cream, milk and oyster liquor; bring to a boil; and then reduce to low heat and simmer for a few minutes while adding Worcestershire, Tabasco, and a little salt and pepper. Next, turn off the heat, add the oysters, and let sit for a couple minutes. Using a slotted spoon, pull oysters out of liquid and divide evenly into bowls. Bring liquid back to a boil, then ladle on top of oysters. Garnish with chopped parsley and fresh ground pepper. Finish the stew with a splash of sherry and a pinch of paprika.
