Photo by Jay Paul
MEAN GREEN
A member of the chicory family along with frisee and radicchio, escarole is a leafy green with a slightly bitter edge. Look for escarole at farmers markets in the fall and early spring, and find it year-round in grocery stores near other lettuces.
BUYING AND COOKING
Dark exterior leaves conceal light green leaves within. The outer leaves benefit from heat and acid, such as soups or braises, while the inner leaves are suitable for salads, especially after a quick plunge into ice water to tame the bitterness.
AROUND RVA
Brenner Pass: In a riff on the classic Waldorf salad, escarole and trevisano are piled high with apples, celery, walnuts and Bayley Hazen blue cheese.
Mama Cucina: Escarole brings body to a saute of fresh clams, shrimp and calamari, tossed in a sun-dried tomato sauce with capellini pasta.
L'Opossum: Chef David Shannon braises escarole and apples before pairing them with spicy butter-basted chicken, wild rice pilaf and sage-cider jus.
LOCAL FLAVOR
“When it is grown in late fall and develops a sweet, tender head, escarole is my absolute favorite for a hearty salad, such as a Caesar or bacon and poached egg concoction,” says Autumn Campbell of Tomten Farm, which grows a variety of exceptional escarole. “Traditionally found in Italian cuisine as a cooked green, it adds depth of flavor and succulent texture when paired with white beans, used in lemony chicken soup or stuffed with rice, capers, and currants. As with all bitter greens, the flavor becomes balanced with the right combination of salt, fat and acid.”
RECIPE
Photo courtesy Stephanie Ganz
Escarole, Fennel and White Bean Soup
By Stephanie Ganz
Escarole and white bean soup is a classic combination. I like to add fennel because it is typically in season at the same time as escarole, and the sweetness of cooked fennel is a nice complement to the assertive escarole. Drizzle a little oil from a jar of anchovies on top of this soup at the end to add richness and umami.
2 large bulbs fennel, greens removed
4 cloves garlic
2 medium heads escarole
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 piece Parmesan rind, 2 to 4 inches
2 cans butter beans (15.5 ounces), drained and rinsed
2 quarts chicken stock
Juice of 1 lemon
1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
Salt and pepper to taste
2 tablespoons oil (You can use a good olive oil, lemon oil or, as mentioned, the oil from a jar of anchovies.)
Thinly slice fennel and mince garlic. Chop escarole in large bite-sized pieces. Set aside.
In a heavy-bottomed stock pot, heat olive oil over medium heat. Add fennel and garlic and saute until fragrant and translucent, about five minutes. Add the Parmesan rind, escarole, butter beans and 2 quarts chicken stock and bring to a simmer. Simmer for about 10 minutes. Taste the soup and season with lemon juice, crushed red pepper, and salt and pepper. Serve with a drizzle of oil on top.
