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IT’S CORN!
Much more than “a big lump with knobs,” corn is a cereal grain domesticated 10,000 years ago by the Indigenous people of southern Mexico. Now America’s most important crop, derivatives of corn are in just about every processed edible, from fast food to candy.
BUYING AND COOKING
Look for corn with bright green husks and white silks. If the husks or silks are brown and dry, it’s a sign that the corn is not as fresh. There’s no need to peel back the entire husk when evaluating corn — that just dries it out for the next person. So be a pal and give your ear of corn a little peek, but only at the tip. Store at room temperature if enjoying the same day or in a brown paper bag in the crisper drawer for up to five days.
AROUND RVA
East Coast Provisions: Crab meat is the perfect complement to a creamy soup that balances the natural sweetness of fresh corn with tangy miso and a hint of cream.
Tio Pablo: Elote, aka Mexican street corn, is a classic way to elevate corn on the cob to new heights with the help of mayo, zesty lime juice, queso fresco and Tajín.
Ruby Scoops: Founder Rabia Kamara is known for her inventive ice cream flavor combinations, but her sweet summer corn and Old Bay caramel might just be the top scoop.
Joe Sparatta (File photo)
LOCAL FLAVOR
“Growing up, I would always look forward to corn season,” says Joe Sparatta, chef and co-owner of Heritage and Southbound. “There was always nice yellow sweet corn in New Jersey. Much like tomato season, corn season was always very important.” In a popular pasta dish at the restaurant, Sparatta relies heavily on sweet corn. The noodles are made from a combination of masa and semolina flour that are hydrated in corn stock, then paired with fresh corn, crab, Sungold tomatoes and chanterelles — a who’s who of summer staples.
RECIPE
Chilled Corn Soup With Chili Crisp
By Stephanie Ganz
4 ears corn, shucked
2 tablespoons butter
1 shallot, minced
1 clove garlic, minced
3 cups corn stock (recipe below; you can also substitute vegetable stock)
1/4 cup heavy cream
Salt and pepper to taste
1-2 tablespoons chili crisp
Chopped fresh cilantro
Place a small metal bowl upside down inside a larger metal bowl. Place 1 shucked ear of corn on top of the smaller bowl on its stalk end and use a sharp knife to remove the kernels (which should fall into the larger bowl). Repeat with remaining cobs and set corn kernels aside. You should have about 4 cups of corn kernels. Save shucked cobs in the freezer for future batches of corn stock.
In a Dutch oven, heat 1 tablespoon butter over medium heat. Add shallot and garlic, then saute until fragrant and translucent, about 2-3 minutes. Add corn kernels and cook for another 2-3 minutes. Add corn stock and bring to a simmer. Simmer for 10 minutes, then use an immersion blender to blend the soup until smooth. Add heavy cream and season to taste with salt and pepper. Chill in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours or overnight. To serve, drizzle with your choice of chili crisp, and garnish with fresh cilantro.
Corn Stock
6 corn cobs, kernels removed
1 onion, roughly chopped
6 stalks celery, roughly chopped
1 bay leaf
1 tablespoon black peppercorns
6-10 parsley stems
8 cups water
Combine all ingredients in a large stock pot and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Boil for 1 hour and then strain. Allow to cool completely and store in the refrigerator for up to 1 week or in the freezer for up to 6 months.
