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THE FINER THINGS
Thanks to TikTok and a new generation of the caviar-curious, one of the finest foods on the planet is enjoying a revival. Online content featuring caviar has been getting millions of views since late last year, and the trend continues, with aficionados plopping dollops of the tiny fish eggs on everything from buttered bread to Pringles.
BUYING AND COOKING
Caviar refers to the salty roe, or eggs, of sturgeon. Caviar that comes from other fish, such as salmon, trout or flying fish, should be labeled as such. In general, caviar should have distinct “beads” that pop in your mouth. The caviar should appear shiny, almost sparkly, when you open the jar. Traditionally, the delicacy is served with vodka or Champagne and accoutrements such as the pancake-like blini or the Swiss potato cake rosti, but potato chips work just as well, if not better.
AROUND RVA
Black Lodge: Prepare for the perfect caviar-and-shots pairing, whether it’s Bombay and sturgeon, Tito’s and paddlefish, or Dickel and trout roe. Chips and creme fraiche complete the scene.
Rappahannock: The team at Rappahannock can be trusted to deliver exceptional seafood, and their hackleback sturgeon caviar plate does not disappoint.
L’opossum: The Fabergé Eggs are a thing of beauty, gilded with silky, dill-cured salmon, Maine lobster and a substantial spoonful of caviar — and who could forget the little rosé-flavored Jell-O jigglers?
LOCAL FLAVOR
“My favorite way to serve Osetra caviar is on top of Route 11 lightly salted potato chips with a dollop of creme fraiche and a chive garnish,” says Tuckahoe Seafood owner Drew Lucas. Tuckahoe Seafood stocks an assortment of Royal Osetra, Siberian sturgeon, American paddlefish and hackleback sturgeon throughout the holidays and up until Valentine’s Day (they’re happy to special order during the rest of the year), with prices ranging from $50-$120 per ounce.
RECIPE
Latkes With Creme Fraiche and Caviar
By Stephanie Ganz
Potato pancakes are a traditional accompaniment to caviar, and these crispy latkes are perfect for the job.
For the latkes
2 pounds russet potatoes
1/2 small yellow onion
1 egg
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
Vegetable oil for frying
For serving
1/2 cup sour cream
2 ounces caviar
Chives, chopped
Peel the potatoes. Grate the potatoes and onion using a box grater or the grater attachment on a food processor. Place the potatoes in a kitchen towel and squeeze to remove as much water as possible; this may require more than one towel. Add all ingredients except the oil to a bowl and toss lightly to combine, being careful not to overmix.
Heat 1 inch of oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat until hot. (A sliver of potato should start to sizzle immediately upon hitting the oil, but the oil should not be smoking.) Form latkes in your palm, being careful not to overwork the mixture. Cook latkes for 4 to 5 minutes or until golden on each side. Use a fish spatula to flip the latkes halfway through. Remove them from the oil and allow to drain in a single layer on a paper towel before plating or keep them on a sheet pan in a warm oven until ready to serve.
To serve, arrange the latkes on a platter and place a dollop of sour cream, a small spoonful of caviar and a sprinkling of chives on each.
Serves 4.