Illustration by Katie McBride
Talk about misnomers — broccoli rabe isn’t broccoli at all. It’s actually a close relative of turnips and a member of the Brassicaceae family, better known as “the mustards.” Adding to the confusion is the fact that it answers to several names, including broccoletti, raab and rapini. Just don’t call it Broccolini — that’s a trademarked name for an entirely different vegetable. None of this has confused Chinese and Italian cooks in the least; they revere this long, stalky vegetable for its pleasing bitterness and crunch.
HISTORY
A staple of Southern Italian cooking, the vegetable was introduced to the United States by Italian farmers in the 1920s. It was not until the produce company Andy Boy, founded by Italian immigrants, brought it to the attention of American chefs in the 1960s, however, that broccoli rabe entered wider consciousness.
WHAT TO BUY
Bushy florets and curly, bright-green leaves promise the best flavor. Avoid rabe with droopy leaves, yellow florets, mushy stems or black spots. Rabe’s notorious bitterness intensifies over time, so be sure to use it within a few days of purchasing.
HOW TO PREPARE
Trim the hard bits from the stem ends, and peel the thickest part of the stems as you would asparagus. Blanch in salted water, then shock in an ice bath to reduce some of the bitterness. Rabe is best-suited for quicker cooking methods such as sauteeing, steaming and grilling, and it doesn’t need much in the way of sauces or seasonings. In Italy, the most common treatment is a fruity olive oil, a sprinkle of chili flakes and a squeeze of lemon. Given its bite, rabe works best in a meal when partnered with roasted or grilled meats, and alongside a hearty grain such as polenta or farro.
Roasted Broccoli Rabe With Lemon Tahini Dressing and Toasted Pistachios
Serves 2-4
By Greg Johnson, chef and owner of Citizen
1 pound broccoli rabe
2 teaspoons olive oil
salt and pepper, to taste
1/4 cup toasted pistachios, chopped
For the dressing
1 cup tahini (look for the brand Soom)
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 lemon, juiced
1 teaspoon pomegranate molasses (or 1 teaspoon honey)
2 tablespoons water
1 clove garlic, minced
1 tablespoon parsley, minced
salt and pepper, to taste
Heat oven to 350 degrees. In a bowl, toss rabe in oil until lightly coated. Add salt and pepper. Place on a sheet pan and roast approximately 30 minutes, turning occasionally until stems are tender. Remove from oven when done.
While the rabe is roasting, whisk tahini, oil, lemon juice, pomegranate molasses and water in a small bowl. Incorporate garlic and parsley. If you prefer a thinner consistency, add more water. Salt and pepper to taste.
Toss rabe with half the dressing, arrange on a plate and finish the presentation by adding the remaining dressing and the toasted pistachios.
