Photo via Getty Images
SOUTHERN STANDARD
A staple of soul food, black-eyed peas were brought to the American South by enslaved Africans in the 17th century. One of many types of cowpeas, black-eyed peas are recognizable for their light color and central black spot.
BUYING AND COOKING
Black-eyed peas are available dried, frozen and canned year-round. They should be soaked and then cooked slowly with aromatics. Once cooked, they can be added to soups and salads. They also work well in fritters, such as the Senegalese akara.
AROUND RVA
Soul Taco: Roasted sweet potatoes bring balance to earthy black-eyed peas in these “tacos with soul,” joined by avocado, pickled red onions and crispy yucca.
ZZQ: Fresh and snappy, Texas caviar is an excellent foil for the rich and fatty smoked meats piled atop the tray at ZZQ.
Garnett’s: A stalwart of Garnett’s menu since day one, the black-eyed pea salad laced with basil is a prime side for any sandwich.
LOCAL FLAVOR
“My parents always took me to watch night service at church on New Year’s Eve. We would pray in the new year, then go out into the fellowship hall to eat a few lucky foods. Collards, ham and of course, black-eyed peas. I still keep lucky peas on hand around the new year. I like to cook them in vegetable broth, then pack them into Mason jars with shaved red onions, hot peppers and fennel. I pour pickle juice over them to cover, and I ladle them over salads, rice or anything that could use some brightening up.”
—Leah Branch, executive chef at The Roosevelt
RECIPE
New Year’s Day Black-eyed Peas
By Stephanie Ganz
While it makes an auspicious start to the new year, don’t discount this dish as a staple year-round. It’s smoky and comforting and incredibly cheap to make.
1 pound dried black-eyed peas, sorted and rinsed
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 onion, diced
4 stalks celery, diced
1 bulb garlic, halved
1 whole dried chile, such as ancho or pasilla
1 bay leaf
4 sprigs fresh thyme
1 smoked ham hock
2 quarts chicken stock
Salt, pepper and crushed red pepper flakes to taste
Soak sorted, rinsed beans overnight in a pot of cool water that covers them by 2 inches.
In a Dutch oven, heat olive oil over medium heat. Saute onion and celery until translucent and fragrant, about five to 10 minutes. Add garlic, chile, bay leaf, thyme, ham hock and chicken stock. Drain and rinse the black-eyed peas and add them to the pot. Bring to a simmer and cook, uncovered, for about an hour or until the beans are tender. Discard the garlic, chile, bay leaf and ham hocks. Taste and season. Serve warm.
