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ASPARAGUS BASICS
Buying: Look for smooth, bright-green stalks with dense, leafy tips. The root ends should be clean and white in the center and slightly moist to the touch, neither dry nor soggy.
Cooking: Bend each spear toward the root end until it snaps naturally, discarding that end. Larger varieties benefit from being peeled prior to blanching in salted water.
SPRING STALK
An early sign of spring, asparagus seems destined to share a plate with other seasonal favorites like salty ham and fresh eggs. Also look out for white asparagus — the milder flavor and soft texture result from the plant’s lack of chlorophyll.
AROUND RVA
Southbound: Indulge in a decadent app — the deviled egg emulsion features nutty Parmesan and savory anchovy topped with seared asparagus.
Saison: Cozying up to its cousin, rhubarb, Saison’s raw asparagus salad is a kaleidoscope of flavors, including Thai basil, red onion and cashews.
Lehja: Fresh asparagus provides a verdant foil for house-made paneer in an Awadhi-style garlic, tomato and cilantro sauce.
“I enjoy the vegetal flavor and crunch of asparagus to mark the start of spring.” —John Hartman, sous chef at Blue Atlas
COOK LIKE A LOCAL
Asparagus Salad
By John Hartman, sous chef at Blue Atlas
John Hartman, sous chef at Blue Atlas (Photo by Sarah Clampett courtesy Blue Atlas)
As with any seasonal ingredient, it’s best to hit the ground running with asparagus. At Blue Atlas, sous chef John Hartman gets the jump with a springtime special of pork ravioli in pea broth, served with a shaved asparagus salad and topped with peanut gremolata. Hartman says tender asparagus lends itself well to raw preparations.
1 bunch asparagus
1/3 cup peanuts
1/4 cup parsley
1 tablespoon mint
1 lemon
1 garlic clove
Pinch of chile flakes or Aleppo
Salt and pepper to taste
Trim bottoms off of asparagus where the stocks naturally snap. You can throw out the bottoms.
Using a mandoline or a sharp knife, thinly slice the stocks of asparagus top to bottom. Submerge asparagus in salted ice water.
Meanwhile, lightly toast peanuts in a 325-degree oven. Mince parsley and mint. Zest garlic clove. Zest and juice lemon. Crush toasted peanuts with the back of your knife or pulse in a food processor. Mix crushed peanuts, minced herbs, garlic, lemon juice and zest, chile flakes, and salt. Add olive oil until desired consistency is reached. Toss with asparagus. Eat as is or top on pasta.
