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The exterior of Perch at 2918 W. Broad St., set to open in June (Photo by Eileen Mellon)
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Photo by Eileen Mellon
Perch: to sit on or near the edge of something (often used in relation to birds).
A fitting verb for Mike Ledesma — a seasoned chef on the verge of opening Perch, his forthcoming restaurant located at 2918 W. Broad St. — who clipped his corporate, or “clipboard chef,” wings last year to embark on his first solo project.
Ledesma found himself at a career crossroads: Routine, cubicle and a comfortable lifestyle, or creativity, freedom and the unknown. A fan of a challenge and making his own rules, he went for the latter.
“It’s not like I wasn’t doing enough, I just wanted to do more,” Ledesma says. “If you want to be something or do something, you have to be a lobbyist for yourself. I can take that energy and put it into my own stuff, make it more efficient, and I can enjoy it better. More better, mo’ betta,” he says, laughing.
While growing up in Hawaii, Ledesma grew fond of Filipino flavors and was trained by Japanese chefs. He worked as a stock broker in the ’90s and learned operational aspects of business before ditching the tie for a chef’s apron.
Fast-forward almost 20 years, and Ledesma’s focused on putting his stamp on the Richmond dining community and crafting a menu around local resources.
Perch chef and owner Mike Ledesma (Photo by Eileen Mellon)
“When you’re younger you have an ego like, 'I’m gonna cook this,' and now it’s like, 'I’m going to cook really good food,' ” he says. “It doesn’t become all about 'I’m the best.' I know what I liked growing up, I know what I ate when I was happy, and I’m going to share these things that I can execute really well — and then take it to the next level.”
The next level means focusing on seasons and produce and building relationships with farmers. Drawing on his travels and culinary experiences. Not following the trends but setting them. Sharing the whole scope of what food is and can be — beginning with the dining room.
The fine-dining yet casual restaurant is 4,600 square feet and will seat nearly 150. A variety of seating provides different guest experiences; a community table, private dining area, enclosed patio, a six-person chef's table and an 18-seat bar. The kitchen will take up 25 percent of the restaurant and be visible from all angles of the dining room.
“The dining room is a snapshot of your restaurant and a snapshot of the chef, and that’s how deep it is,” Ledesma says. “Here’s the restaurant, here’s the different experiences you can have, here’s the different price points. There’s an adventure every time you come, but there’s also a consistency.”
The consistency begins with the staff; Ledesma is currently hiring 35 people for front- and back-of-house positions.
“I am looking for someone that is hungry, innovative, does their own research on their own time,” he says. “Do they have a self-awareness of where they want to be? This isn’t just a stop on the road to your career; this is your career.”
The menu will offer Pacific-inspired dishes, making use of fermented foods and fire-based cooking, with a focus on smoky, sweet, salty and sour flavor profiles including everything from pizza to a whole-roasted fish — paying homage to Ledesma’s background and featuring hyper-local products. Not Southern food or Asian fusion, terms Ledesma wants to stay away from.
Part of Ledesma’s process is asking questions. Why should he cook a dish, and what can he do to enhance it? Who is coming to his restaurant? How can he create something other chefs cannot?
“You have to do it better, you have to revisit the classics, you can’t work in a closed environment,” he says. “It’s looking at techniques, and foundation, and attacking that and executing that. I don’t want people to come to the restaurant and think, 'I could cook this at home.' ”
When asked if opening a restaurant scares him, Ledesma jokingly replies, “All the time,” and laughs.
“I have this theory: Let’s do the best, and if we fall a little short it’s better than nothing,” he says. “If I got scared, it would be paralysis of my analysis. It’s like dropping in on a big wave, you gotta commit. If you don’t commit, you're done. Commit with the passion and the knowledge that you’re going to be successful.”
Perch is set to open in early June at 2918 W. Broad St.
