Marvin Nguyen, owner of Manchu (Photo by Jay Paul)
A number of food trucks across Richmond have parked themselves permanently over the last few years, including Pizza Tonight, which morphed into Nota Bene, and Nate’s Tacos, which transformed into multiple locations of Don’t Look Back. The latest entrant to settle in is Manchu.
Manchu’s smallish and very purple takeout-only space is located off Brookland Park Boulevard at 2914 North Ave. The focus is dry-rubbed wings with Cajun-inspired spices, such as garlic and cayenne, plus, according to owner Marvin Nguyen, who debuted the food truck in 2017, “lots of love.”
Manchu's dry-rubbed wings with fried rice and salad (Photo by Jay Paul)
The dry rub offers a nice change from the saucy and sticky wings often found on area menus. Manchu’s wings are moist and don’t necessarily require a sauce, but if inclined, the Mambo, similar to a sweet chile sauce, is the way to go. It’s a hit, often requested with other menu items such as fried rice and egg rolls.
The hybrid menu blends Cajun and Asian influences that complement one another with generous portions. The fried rice and wings are seasoned with the same Cajun rub, while the po’boys and fried seafood platters share a lighter, almost tempura-quality batter. The gumbo, while nicely spiced, was thick, almost like a gravy.
Rumor has it that Manchu’s yaka mein, a noodle soup laden with chopped meats and a hard-boiled egg, is the hangover cure — nicknamed “Old Sober” — we’ve all been longing for. Although I wasn’t hungover, the salty, spicy broth, carbs and proteins looked to be exactly what would help cut through the fuzziness after a long night.