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When Kwame Hayford was 16, he worked the deli counter at a Farm Fresh grocery store in Virginia Beach. Besides restocking items and slicing meats and cheese, Hayford also fried chicken.
“If you know about the Farm Fresh fried chicken, you know,” Hayford says, shaking his head in reverence. “I was learning on those big industrial friers, that was my first gig.”
Those early grease burns and seasoning-in-the-eye moments laid the foundation for the 32-year-old’s later foray into fried chicken. Hayford operates Kwam’s Chicken Project, a pop-up that focuses on all things chicken, from wings and brined-and-fried nuggets to spicy sandwiches and biscuits.
Previously hosting events at Cirrus Vodka, Cobra Burger, Sincero and The Veil Brewing Co., Hayford’s casual, humorous approach is attracting crowds of devotees.
During the COVID-19 pandemic, Hayford and his roommates would take turns making meals for each other. Inspired by his buddy’s egg batter mixed with hot sauce, he began to experiment with his own fried chicken recipes. Following some friendly encouragement, in August 2020, Hayford leveled up. He designed a flyer and created a logo (still in use) depicting himself wearing a Prince T-shirt and eyeing a chicken wing approvingly. Kwam’s Chicken Project events are typically held on Sundays, and Hayford posts menus to Instagram, with customers placing orders via in-app messaging.
“It started just as almost a house party pop-up. People would come by, and I’d give [the food] to them and did that most of COVID,” he says. “I want people to crave this; it’s a Sunday type thing, and that just evolved.”
Transitioning from operating a laid-back and low-key affair to a pop-up people actively anticipate, Hayford obtained his LLC designation in late summer of 2022. He credits most of his chicken chops to YouTube and other online sources. Never measuring and finessing recipes by adding his own touch, he also says his mother, a home caterer, is a natural inspiration.
“My mom is one of the best cooks in the world, Joyce Hayford,” he says. “I have never worked in a kitchen.”
A lack of industry experience is a bonus for Hayford; it means a no-rules approach comes with ease and that Kwam’s Chicken Project is exactly that — his own.
Menus are infused with playful nods to pop culture: An event for The Veil Brewing Co.’s anniversary block party referenced a song from Three 6 Mafia member Project Pat, and an episode of the TV series “Atlanta” inspired a Buffalo-lemon-pepper offering that dives into the chicken wing cultural phenomenon in the Southern city. One of Hayford’s most popular sauces is “Goldmember,” a riff on the signature sauce of a certain fast-food chain that is closed on Sundays. He also turned his love for the purple bag of Doritos (Spicy Sweet Chili flavor) into a dusting of seasoning that he uses to coat wings and nuggets. “It was a hit,” he says.
Hayford often wears a hat with “Alfredo” written across its brim, a reference to a favorite hip-hop album by Freddie Gibbs and The Alchemist. Recently engaged, the data analyst by day says his vision board includes introducing a grilled-only menu, along with vegan offerings and collabs with other food ventures.
“They welcomed me with this chicken s--- … my funny little jokes, my personality,” he says of his pop-up’s growing following. “I truly want to believe I’m approachable with it. I also don’t want to toot my horn, but I always try throwing a little extra nugget in there. I’m not saying, ‘This is the best,’ but I’m saying, ‘Hey, try this.’ I want people to just have another option.”
