The following is an extended version of the article that appears in our December 2023 issue.
Jason “Tank” Walker of Joe's Inn (Photo by Jay Paul)
Jason “Tank” Walker has been helming the kitchen of the legendary Joe’s Inn for nearly three decades. A living time capsule, he can recall every snow day, every Country Greek Salad season and every restaurant regular since he was hired. The veteran chef and father of two talks about being a part of the restaurant’s legacy.
Richmond magazine: Where are you from and how did you land at Joe’s Inn?
Jason “Tank” Walker: I’m from Richmond, grew up in Henrico County, and went to Brookland Middle School and Hermitage High School. I went to Johnson & Wales [University], the Norfolk campus. I also met Michael Kafantaris, son of the owner of Joe’s Inn [Nick Kafantaris], there. We happened to be in class together, and we had that Richmond connection. He was commuting to school, and my friend and I were like, “Why don’t you stay with us and crash during the week so you don’t have to drive to Richmond?” He would crash, bring a sleeping bag, and that’s where the first shift started; every night we would play video games, hang out, talk. We just became really good friends. When we graduated, my first job was at the Omni Hotel [in Richmond]. At the time, Michael and his father were opening up Joe’s Inn Bon Air, and he brought me in on Saturday and Sunday mornings as a breakfast cook; this was like ’98.
RM: How did you transition into the role of kitchen manager?
Walker: [Former Joe’s Inn chef] George A. Karagiorgas was getting older, and Nick was like, “I need someone I know I can trust and count on and take the next wave.” So, I went there to work with George and shadowed him for a few months. Consistency is key, and I learned a lot from him, I respected him. He passed away, and it hit me hard, but he told me, “Look, this is what we do, and this is how we do it, and we don’t go away from it. It’s not about you, it’s about Joe’s Inn, and if you stick to that and don’t change the recipe, this place will run forever,” and I stuck by that. To this day, certain things he did 20-plus years ago, I still do. We’ve been buying the same vinegar since I’ve been there; it has to be the same, it has to be consistent down to the seasoning, the oregano, the garlic. For years, not only did I work with George, but Nick was there every day. I learned a lot from Nick, I looked up to him. If it wasn’t for Nick Kafantaris, I wouldn’t be sitting here right now.
RM: What has made you want to continue working at Joe’s Inn after all these years?
Walker: It’s like family. I have got a big heart, and it’s the love of the people there. Whether [it’s the] holidays, or you’re in the trenches and [have] a ton of tickets, overwhelmed, doesn’t matter what’s going on, we all have families, so we’re working together, we gotta keep this restaurant alive to take care of our families. It’s a genuine group, and that foundation they created has grown into this special place. We joke [that] we’re that “Cheers.” I’ve made a lot of friends and memories and fun times. To me, it’s genuine, and I love it. I never thought, “Wow, I’m going to be here 20 years 30 years,” I’m not doing it for that or for validation, I’m just doing it because it feels good. I wake up every morning with motivation. Loyalty to me is everything.
RM: How did you get the nickname “Tank?”
Walker: [As a toddler,] my dad used to crawl around the house and act like he was going through a wall, he would never go around. He got the nickname “Tank,” and it stuck with him. When I grew up and started playing little league football and baseball, my coach had gone to school with my dad and knew him as “Tank.” He started calling me “Little Tank.” It gravitated from elementary school to middle school to high school and on the loudspeaker [at football games], “Jason ‘Tank’ on the tackle.” One year at a Christmas party at Joe’s — we used to do these questionnaires — and the question was, “Who is Jason Walker?” and a lot of people got it wrong. We laughed about it for years.