Nafis and Matthew Narsinghani, owners of Gold Lion Community Cafe (Photo by Jay Paul)
The evolution of coffee shops over the last decade or two has followed a trajectory similar to much of American social life: What used to be mellow and contemplative has become fast and transactional; we’ve lost the thoughtfulness that used to permeate spaces like these. If you’re old enough, you might remember how your favorite cafe was full of couches and armchairs, anchored by soft lighting, animated by poetry readings and open mic nights. Now, many have backless metal stools and online ordering, and it’s common for customers to be glued to their phones, not making eye contact with a single soul.
At Gold Lion Community Cafe, that’s not the case. Owners Matthew and Nafis Narsinghani set out to build an actively engaging, inclusive space, and they have succeeded admirably. You feel it when the staff speaks to you with a smiling familiarity and again when you take a look around and notice how many community-building projects they support: coat drives, local fridge fundraisers, a shared Thanksgiving meal provided to any in need, a regular new-to-Richmond meetup night and a big bulletin board in the front foyer posted with event info. They schedule fun get-togethers multiple nights a week, from drag shows and comedy performances to cabaret, Bollywood, swing dance and discussion panels.
Reflecting on the beginnings of Gold Lion, Matthew says, “We’re coming from Tennessee, a place that lacked inclusivity, so when we moved here and started to realize that people are so friendly — they come together and rally for people they don’t even know — we decided to do what we really wanted to do, which was to open a cafe and serve my husband’s family recipes.”
Marking a year in business this September, the vegetarian-powered cafe at 1012 Hull St. in Manchester has firmly planted roots.
“We saw this space and thought we could make this a center point for LGBTQ+ people, Asian Americans, people of color and all our allies,” Matthew says. “We met so many people, both new and not new to Richmond, and they were looking for community. The surgeon general had just declared that loneliness is one of the biggest epidemics in America, and I felt very compelled by that.”
Compared to other cafes, they’re open late (9 or 10 p.m. most nights) and pour coffee every day of the week. They also have an attached bar, Duke’s Den (named for their late dog), that exudes the same friendly, chat-with-me vibes as the coffee shop. Indian-inspired flavors mingle on the food and cocktail menus; get the Nimbu Pani for the full experience. It’s a spiced, lemonade-like vodka refresher with a sweet-tart green chutney garnish. Not an alcohol drinker? Your new favorite sip might be the ultra-juicy spiced iced tea with mango, pineapple, cinnamon and ginger. Grab a hand-held snack to go with it, such as a homemade potato and pea dosa or pani puri.
Highlighting Gold Lion isn’t a critique of other cafes so much as contemplation on what it takes to revive that lost closeness for those who crave it: You’ve got to go all in, have a strong point of view and prioritize the personal. The coffee shop model is tough, and those metal stools have appeared for a reason. In many cafes, people sit for hours and order a single latte; that’s not sustainable. But by weaving customers into the fabric, it allows a deeper bond to form. In a world where we all could use a bit more kindness, this coffee shop has managed to reclaim one of the best parts of being human — connection.
