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The father-and-son duo behind Ronnie's Original Barbecue. Darrell Logan (left) and his father Ronnie Logan (right) are now the sole owners.
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Ronnie says his secret is "the love."
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Ronnie's Original Barbecue is located at 2097 New Market Road in Varina.
Ronnie Logan, a Varina native, has become synonymous with one smoky attribute: a full rack of ribs. The pitmaster has returned as owner of The Original Ronnie’s BBQ, a rebrand of the Route 5 outpost at 2097 New Market Road that hosted a soft opening last weekend and will launch its full menu on Thursday, April 4.
For almost a year, Logan took a hiatus from the business. Devotees watched as “Ronnie’s” was dropped from the sign and replaced with “Varina." Although Logan still did some catering for the restaurant, and he remained part owner, at that point he was primarily the face of the venture. However, both his absence from the smoker and the name “Varina BBQ” were short-lived.
“We had a partnership, and it didn’t work out— it wasn’t aligned right and not our vision,” says Darrell Logan, co-owner and Ronnie's son. “Without the passion and true love my father and I have for it, it wasn’t the same.”
The Logans view the reopening, just in time for prime ‘cue season, as an opportunity to refocus their energy and renew the goals they have for their refreshed eatery.
“I love people and I know how to cook this food,” says Ronnie boldly. “In the early days, the business aspect, the backroom stuff, I was lacking. Now it’s just family doing this.”
Growing up, Darrell watched his father cook for family events and make dinner for his football and baseball teams or his Boy Scout troop. While working at Verizon, Darrell often brought Ronnie’s famous ribs to work. One day Darrell’s co-worker sampled the ribs — and then she requested that Darrell and his father cater her family’s Thanksgiving dinner.
It was their first paid gig — the racks started to turn.
The father-and-son team started off with a tent and a slow cooker at an abandoned lot near 25th and Main streets across from Millie’s Diner, shortly followed by a trailer.
“That’s when it took off,” Darrell says.
As the notorious line from Millie’s spilled out the door onto the patio, people eyed their trailer, curious about Ronnie’s BBQ. The waft of welcoming ribs and smoke billowing out of the cooker made the waiting customers' stomachs growl. Another line started to form outside of Ronnie's trailer.
It serendipitously led Richmond native, chef and former restaurant owner Delilah Winder, the author of "Delilah's Everyday Soul: Southern Cooking With Style," to their barbecue. Winder, whose mac and cheese was picked as the best in the country by Oprah Winfrey in 2003, bought a bounty of slow-cooked meats: ribs, brisket, pulled pork and the usual suspects of sides, like collards and, of course, mac and cheese. Hours later, the Logans received a call from Winder. During her drive up to Philadelphia, she had eaten everything, “It didn’t make it back,” she said of the food she had purchased.
What followed was a June 2009 appearance on the Food Network’s “The Best Thing I Ever Ate," where Winder spoke of Ronnie’s ribs on the second episode of the show's first season.
Those same ribs have since been enjoyed by Whoopi Goldberg and Barbara Walters, along with thousands of Richmonders, many of whom transitioned from customers to friends.
“We always say food, music and sports are things that bring people together," says Darrell, "and food has been a way for us to relate and make good friends."
Ronnie’s barbecue style is a reflection of his Richmond roots: The veteran Varina pitmaster lives three minutes away from his smokehouse. The significance of reopening his namesake restaurant extends far beyond the four walls of his barbecue hut — it’s a chance for the Logans to reconnect with the community after originally opening in 2016.
“We love people and love to treat them right,” Ronnie says. “My whole thing about Ronnie’s is people can come, and they can just exhale [lets out a sigh and laughs]. You could be the governor or a homeless man on the street, you’ll feel the same way about Ronnie’s.”
The Logans hope to provide a smoky safe haven for neighbors, families and travelers exploring the area along the nearby Capital Trail, and for them to feel welcomed and leave remembering the service and “love” behind their barbecue.
“I watch his relationships, and they [customers] love being around him,” Darrell says of his father. “It’s cool to sit back and watch that, he’s genuine and he doesn’t change … he’s consistent, with people and his food.”
Ronnie’s infectious vibe has even made him a popular and often requested driver on Uber, one of the “side hustles” he picked up while waiting to reopen his namesake eatery.
The restaurant's newly painted inside sports a nostalgic bright red, with new shelves and an open kitchen that the father and son hope invites customers to pause and watch the cooking unfold.
When asked how the Logans would define their style of barbecue, a laughing Darrell says, “Southern-style with a touch of Ronnie’s, and it sounds crazy, but that’s what it is.”
“I can’t say Carolina, I can’t say Memphis, Kansas City, because it’s Ronnie’s Richmond-style," he continues, "and a lot of our customers can compare it to things but say this is something different.”
Ronnie’s menu features fish, brisket, ribs, pulled pork and chicken wings. House specialty sides include mac and cheese — sold only on Sundays — collards, potato salad and Ronnie’s baked beans.
But one thing diners should know: The ribs reign supreme.
“People come for the ribs,” Darrell notes. “My dad says, ‘You’re not coming for the potato salad, you come for the smoked meats.' ”
Ronnie’s will be open Thursday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Sunday from noon to 6 p.m., and closed Monday through Wednesday.
