The following is an online extra from the spring issue of Dine, featuring a smorgasbord of vegan and vegetarian cuisine and heading to newsstands soon.
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Earl Grey-lavender Gnarly Tarts (Photo courtesy Gnarly Girls Baking Co.)
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Owner of Gnarly Girls Baking Co. Kayla Serene (Photo by Michael Phillips Photography)
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Vegan and gluten-free chamomile-lavender moon pies (Photo courtesy Gnarly Girls Baking Co.)
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Vegan and gluten-free blood orange-pistachio-dark chocolate bars (Photo courtesy Gnarly Girls Baking Co.)
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Vegan and gluten-free matcha-chocolate donuts (Photo courtesy Gnarly Girls Baking Co.)
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Themed Gnarly Tart from the Virginia Comicon (Photo courtesy Gnarly Girls Baking Co.)
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Caramel chocolates from an appearance at VA Comicon. Serene says she loves "markets and events that are themed, where I can do something specific. It's fun and creative and always keeps the engine moving." (Photo courtesy Gnarly Girls Baking Co.)
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A custom tea blend from Rostov's called Gnarly Grey (Photo courtesy Gnarly Girls Baking Co.)
Richmond native and lifelong vegetarian Kayla Serene, 26, has been baking plant-based fare long before cuisine rooted in the earth had hit the mainstream. Now Richmonders can find the ex-Sub Rosa pastry chef’s Gnarly Tarts, a playful ode to childhood, along with chocolates, doughnuts and other treats at pop-up events around the city. Gnarly Girls Baking Co. may be young — it launched in January and is currently producing out of Hatch Kitchen RVA — but Serene is eager to create unique flavors from mango mimosa to hibiscus blood orange, expand her breadth of offerings and continue to partner with local businesses including UnMoo, Rostov’s and Bright Spot Coffee.
Richmond magazine: When did you first begin baking and what sparked that interest?
Kayla Serene: As a young kid I became interested in food. I’ve been vegetarian my entire life, I’ve never eaten meat, and I grew up in a family where no one really cooked. I was always the person who made my half of the family food for events and stuff. When I was 6 or 7 it was the first time I made something on my own. Being vegetarian, I never wanted to work in kitchens and work with meat — I’ve never consumed or cooked with it — so I switched to baking because [that way] I didn’t have to.
RM: How did you learn to bake?
Serene: I was self-taught at home. I was home-schooled and had an instructor that went to culinary school [Johnson & Wales Norfolk], and they taught me a lot about the basic skills of culinary [work]. At the end of my home-schooling curriculum I did a four-course meal that included an appetizer, two courses and dessert, and a bunch of my parents' friends and mentors graded me on the meal. When I moved back to RVA I worked at commercial kitchens like Sub Rosa — I was there for two and a half years — Lamplighter and Early Bird. Before that I worked in places in San Diego and Washington when I lived there.
RM: When did you first debut Gnarly Girls Baking Co. products in Richmond?
Serene: Vegan 72 — it was amazing; we sold out of what we're calling Gnarly Tarts in 45 minutes and made about 75 tarts. The event went until 6 p.m., and we sold out at 2:30 p.m. I didn’t know what to expect, and it was a great first experience. That’s when I knew I was doing what I was supposed to do.
RM: Do you try to cater to a specific audience or find nonvegans seek you out as well?
Serene: I definitely don’t like to narrow the events I do. I’m trying to go to events everywhere so anyone can try it and enjoy it. I want to show that vegan and gluten-free can be tasty and not just based off of restrictions. I also want to work with other diets and allergies as well.
RM: Where do you draw inspiration from?
Serene: [I've] always been someone to go back to nostalgic things from childhood. I’m a huge fan of the ‘50s and ‘60s and vintage in general and the connecting of now and then, so vegan and gluten-free is the now, and moon pies and Pop-tarts and shortbread is then. My family always had landscaping businesses, so I’ve always been one with the earth per se, using herbs and things that are natural, like using dragon fruit and turmeric to create colors. I try to create things I can picture myself being excited about.
RM: What was it like growing up being vegetarian and vegan when it wasn’t as prevalent?
Serene: In general all the things about my life were different, [including] how I was raised. I was home-schooled, in a family with a bisexual mom, I have my own last name given to me at birth, multiple things. I’m vegetarian, always dyed my hair — I was always the alternative kid and had that black sheep feeling growing up.
RM: At any point did you think of trying meat while growing up?
Serene: Not really. If I did I would try everything, I’m someone if you do it, go all the way. If you’re going to eat an animal, eat everything. For me, I’m completely against animal cruelty. My mom gave me the option around 8 to 10 and said, "This is what others do, but I’ve taught you how animals are treated in the industry for food; this is the info, you can make your own decision."
RM: Do you hope to eventually open a brick-and-mortar shop?
Serene: Yeah, definitely, I feel like it would be awesome. I want to go with the flow, but it’s amazing how the community is allowing the business to grow as fast as it is. I've always wanted to own a vegan- or vegetarian-friendly cafe, or a food truck, like a bakery on wheels with coffee and drinks.
RM: How have you grown as a baker?
Serene: I’m always paying attention to things I’m doing, making mental checks of how to improve, while not getting down on myself or letting the passion disappear. [Owning a business is] something I love and I've always wanted to do. There’s moments it’s hard, and I've thought maybe I should step into something else, but I’m always led back. I also want to grow into making savory things. They will be appearing once we hit the summertime.
RM: Outside of baking, what are your interests?
Serene: Right now, not much. [Laughs] I'm very adventurous; I like going on road trips and hikes and going to the river. My parents were '80s kids who grew up in the hardcore scene, so I enjoy music and I used to go to shows with them. I did fire spinning for a long time and was active with Food Not Bombs. I have a lot of passion to be active in the community, which makes it feel even better to create something here where I grew up.
