Pop-ups in the food world are laissez-faire, unpredictable experiences that allow chefs to flex their culinary muscles, diverge from the confines of a set menu and explore other cuisines. They’re where recipes are tested and developed, futures are mulled over, mistakes are made, and people home in on their identities. For diners, pop-ups are enticing mini food adventures and exclusive experiences, a chance to be a part of a venture during its beginning phases and to break free from traditional dining.
Last year in Richmond alone, we watched as multiple pop-ups rose to brick-and-mortar status, among them Tiny Victory, Longoven, ZZQ, Perch, Empanadas Market and Nate’s Bagels. Since those inceptions, more food-centric movers and shakers have surfaced. From Cambodian fare to sourdough bagels, feast your eyes on this selection of recently debuted pop-ups and find out where to sample their creations.
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Royal Pig will host its next pop-up at The Jasper on Sunday, Nov. 17. (Photo courtesy Sam Park and Kayla Cramer)
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Babar, Cambodian congee made with pork, chicken stock, rice, lemongrass, galangal, ginger, bean sprout, fried garlic and bird's eye chile (Photo courtesy Sam Park and Kayla Cramer)
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Sach moan jakak, chicken skewers with kaffir lime leaf, turmeric, lemongrass, shallot, garlic and galangal (Photo courtesy Sam Park and Kayla Cramer)
Royal Pig
Founded: In April 2019 by Vanna Hem, bar manager of Weezie’s Kitchen, and Adam Stull, bar manager of Bingo Beer Co., with appearances by Brandon MacConnell, chef de cuisine of Shagbark, and Austin Jones, sous chef of Weezie’s Kitchen
Cuisine: Cambodian comfort food that focuses on fresh ingredients and scratch cooking. “Comfort food was our whole focus, but No. 1 is being as authentic as possible and making everything from scratch,” Hem says.
Background: These seasoned members of the RVADine scene typically are found behind the bar, but Hem and Stull move to the back of house for their pop-up venture. Hem, whose mother was a chef, often helped her in the kitchen while growing up and says, "I started cooking from my memories of that food, and it kind of took off from there — a lot of our food is very much nostalgic.” The duo first met while working together at Postbellum, often cooking Sunday meals for the staff. Royal Pig envisions a potential brick-and-mortar in the future, and Stull, a Philadelphia native, says, “We’ve always cooked together, and it just feels right.”
Where to find next: At The Jasper for “A Holiday in Cambodia” on Sunday, Nov. 17, at 5 p.m. A few items diners can expect on the menu: babar, a Cambodian congee or rice porridge dish; slaw machu manor, a sweet and spicy sour pineapple soup and one of Hem’s favorite dishes growing up; and chicken and beef skewers.
Fun fact: Royal Pig hosted its first event at The Cask Cafe after co-owner Dave Garrett encouraged them to move forward with the idea.
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An everything bagel from Chewy's (Photo courtesy Chewy's Bagels)
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Chewy's Bagels offers plain, everything, sea salt, rosemary and sea salt, poppy seed, blueberry, and chocolate-chip varieties. (Photo courtesy Chewy's Bagels)
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Chewy's will serve bagel sandwiches during its next pop-up at Recluse Roasting Project. (Photo courtesy Chewy's Bagels)
Chewy’s Bagels
Founded: April 2019 by Ashley Cricchio
Cuisine: Sourdough bagels available in plain, sea salt, rosemary-sea salt, poppyseed, everything, chocolate-chip and blueberry varieties. Cricchio, a Maine transplant, lets the bagels proof for 48 hours in order to develop a nice chew. “It gives [customers] what they are really looking for — that crust and rich flavor,” she says.
Background: After serving in the Navy, the 32-year-old relocated to Richmond to attend VCU, where she picked up bagel making as an extracurricular activity. “I started teaching myself about bread and loved it so much I kept doing it,” Cricchio says. With a desire to dive deeper into the dough world, she visited various area bakeries in hopes of landing an apprenticeship. Whisk said yes. Cricchio shadowed their head baker for two months before being brought on board as a full-time baker for the past two years. She left in September to pursue her bagel dreams and currently works out of Hatch Kitchen with hopes of operating her own shop one day.
Where to find next: Chewy’s plans to serve bagel sandwiches during a forthcoming pop-up at Recluse Roasting Project in mid-January, with the exact date to be announced. Bagel orders by the dozen or half-dozen can be placed online through Instagram or via email. For Saturday pickup, orders must be placed by the Wednesday prior. For Monday pickup, orders must be placed by the Friday prior. Bagels can be picked up at RVA Performance at 2522 Hermitage Ave. between 9 and 10:30 a.m. They are also sold at Outpost Richmond.
Fun fact: The name Chewy’s is an ode to Cricchio’s dog, whom she rescued in Afghanistan.
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Petite honey-nut squash with tre formaggio fondue, fermented pumpkin brine and toasted hazelnuts can be found on Oro's debut menu. (Photo courtesy Oro)
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Mafaldine pasta for the forthcoming pop-up (Photo courtesy Oro)
Oro
Founded: November 2019 by Laine Myers, executive chef at Nota Bene (formerly of Metzger Bar & Butchery and Graffiato), and Charlie Shew, sous chef at Nota Bene (formerly of Graffiatto, Perch and Shagbark)
Cuisine: Handmade pasta and antipasti. Shew, a garganelli pasta fan, believes Oro will allow him and Myers the opportunity to experiment with more labor-intensive concepts and dishes that aren’t necessarily best suited for normal dinner service. “I feel like we’re both pulling little passions out of our careers,” Shew says.
Background: Myers and Shew first met while working together at the now shuttered Graffiatto where they quickly bonded over an adoration for pasta making. Years later, they found themselves in the same kitchen again, this time at Nota Bene. “After a couple years apart, we’re even more in sync now and on the same page,” Myers says. “It seemed natural to spitball new ideas."
Where to find next: Nota Bene for their debut pop-up on Monday, Nov. 18, at 7 p.m. The menu will feature dishes incorporating turnips, beets and butternut squash, along with libations from Native Selections, Plant Wines and Amari-driven cocktails by Caleb Carpin. There are plans for a pop-up at The Jasper in January with a date to be announced.
Fun fact: Myers recalls being “very bad” at making pasta when she first tried it in college, but after landing jobs in pasta-heavy environments, she was sucked in and began to polish her skills. “Everything is made with your hands and requires different pressures and touches, and it really comes back to understanding what you’re working with," she says. "There’s lots of screwing up, and then one day you’re like, ‘Oh damn, I really made a good one." [Laughs]
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Carnitas taco with fried and braised pork shoulder served with onion, lime and cilantro (Photo by Eileen Mellon)
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Tinga tostada served with iceberg lettuce, radish and queso fresco (Photo by Eileen Mellon)
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A spread of dishes from a previous Sincero pop-up including a tinga tostada, a carnitas taco, and a quesadilla with Oaxaca queso and black bean spread served with pickled jalapeños and carrots (Photo by Eileen Mellon)
Sincero
Founded: January 2019 by Karen Negvesky and Alex Bobadilla of Brenner Pass
Cuisine: Traditional Mexican fare that combines authentic dishes and offers a learning experience for the community through sharing the preparation, process and customs of the food. “We’re trying to cultivate that vibe; you can come hang out, listen to cool music and enjoy good food,” Bobadilla says. The dishes for Sincero are inspired by Bobadilla’s heritage — his mother is from Mexico, and his father from Guatemala.
Background: Bobadilla and Negvesky met in Baltimore while working at Parts and Labor, a now shuttered butchery and restaurant. The experience allowed Bobadilla to gain an understanding and appreciation of utilizing the entirety of an animal, while they both discovered a passion for working events. The duo continue to explore Mexican culture and expand their knowledge of the cuisine through trips to cities including Oaxaca and Cuernavaca.
Fun fact: These pop-ups tend to sell-out quickly, so your best bet is to head over within the first two hours.
Where to find next: The Veil Brewing Co. from noon to 5 p.m. on Sunday, Nov. 17. Attendees can expect birria, braised beef with Monterey Jack cheese, consommé, cilantro, onion and lime, along with a few other menu items.
Stay tuned for more culinary nomads next week.
